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Posts posted by Daz69

  1. Hi Nathan. I have SkyView and that shows all of the satellites and even all the spent rocket boosters going back years. It even tells you about every one and what they were used for, by who and when. I paid £1.49 for the enhanced version from the app store on iPhone.

    Hope you also have an equally productive nights viewing buddy :)  

    • Like 1
  2. I could see the two bands either side of the equator but couldn't make out the GRS unfortunately. There was no detail to the red bands but definitely able to see that they were there. I'm so hoping that my 200p will show some extra detail, but I know that I am limited mainly to the quality of my EP's (Omni Plossl's) however they are far superior to the supplied ones that's for sure.

    I also feel that my focusing was rubbish as every time I tried adjusting it slightly, the wobble created was terrible, so I was adjusting a little, then letting it settle down before adjusting again, and only by a nano titch every time, but the wobble is very annoying. Again, I'm hoping the sturdier dob base will yield better results. 

    • Like 2
  3. Well guys, all of your vibes and best wishes came true, so thank you.

    OMG I cannot believe what I saw. ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! I was using my 130 as my dob base for my 200 isn't finished yet, but OMG.

    I was using my 9mm with an LPF as the moon was coming up, and even used my cover thingy on the front of the tube (very technical me). I tried the barlow but that made the view worse. I saw the 4 Galilean moons, with the closest 2 swapping places almost, which was awesome to see. The 4th moon (I know it has 67) visible is amazingly some way out, but it still fitted withing the EP.  I viewed Jupiter it for nearly 2 hours. 

    I even managed to get a rubbish photo on my iPhone. Not sure if you'll see 2 of the moons (maybe 3 but very grainy, sorry!) to the top right of the Jupiter. Not bad for something 420 odd million miles away! 


    and I even got one of the pesky moon that spoilt everything :)  It's had a little touch-up in Photobucket.


    Overall, a very pleasant evening's viewing :D  :D 


    • Like 8
  4. 9 hours ago, brantuk said:

    Nice work so far Daz. Did you consider a red micro light off an old string of xmas tree lights.... I've seen someone use these quite effectively. :)

    I don't have any old christmas tree lights, and the Mrs would kill me if I cut one off lol :D  I've got some 3mm red LEDs in my electronics stash, so I'll fashion one with a resistor.

    What I was messing around with last night was this. 


    Ignore the set up, all I was doing was using just the end LED in a red strip light I use when night fishing for inside my bivvy. The rest of the LEDs are taped over, with just the last one shining through the perspex. 

    And this is what I ended up with


    I need to refine the angles a little to sharpen the image, but after three attempts I've got it this sharp. 

    • Like 2
  5. I'm a newbie too, and I swapped out the supplied EP's for some Celestron plossl's of similar size to what you say above (9mm and 32mm in my case), for my 130, and the difference was great. Personally I'd get the new EP's and just the UHC filter for now. Save your money for Turn left at Orion (book) and an illuminated finder, like a RACI or a little cheaper say a Telrad or Rigel. They are what has helped me the most so far.  

    • Like 1
  6. 2 hours ago, estwing said:

    Anything but lasers!

    I'm not wanting to use one either, and I'm working on making an illuminated pointer where the light will be diffused and only visible at the tip of the point, so far it looks really good, but trying out a few different styles to see what works best. I don't want it too bright, as once your eyes adjust to darkness it will become more visible anyway. The LED will be underneath the box and totally covered, with just the pointer sticking out, but it needs enough illumination to also light up the degree marks near to the pointer. The laminate covering I used gives some help to that "shine" as well. So far, I've got the point having 6 angles. 2 on the top at 30 degrees each side, 2 at the sides at 90, and the 2 bottom also at 30. Trials continue :) 

    • Like 1
  7. Just now, estwing said:

    Very nice well done sir

    Thank you kindly. I'm still some ways off completion, need to work out how to illuminate a pointer or project a line onto the compass. Been looking at laser lines, but cannot find anyone who supplies just the laser and at a reasonable (cheap) cost. I could use a 99p laser pointer I suppose????

    I've got a few ideas in my head using a red LED through the edge of a small piece of 2mm perspex, but I need to work out the angles that I need to cut the perspex in order to see the illuminated edge from the above position. I trialled a few different angles but not quite there yet. 

  8. A bit more done. I mounted the azimuth compass on the base board 


    and then used Evo-stik contact adhesive to stick my Shirley Bassey LP to the base box. Whilst the adhesive was drying, I mounted the 3 teflon pads to the base board. The glue was drying off nicely so I applied said LP to the underside of the base box, using the centre bolt to line it up correctly. I used a press roller to squeeze out any trapped air bubbles, and then fitted the base box to the board, and gave it a spin :) A slight adjustment to the centre bolt gets me enough stiction without it binding but also enough sliption without it being like Torvil and Dean on ice. 

    I was going to do a final 1200 wet and dry sand before using a buffing wheel to really flatten out the paint, but I couldn't be bothered with the hassle of buffing compound being flung everywhere. However, I'm quite happy with the finish and the current shine. 



    Thanks for looking 

    • Like 4
  9. 18 hours ago, rigradio said:

    Well...sorry for that, I'm not good at English.
    I'll try, but based on questions :D
    Thanks anyway...

    No problem, it's just that some see a photo and copy it without asking questions, believing what they see to be correct.

    Your English is better than my Indonesian :) 

    • Like 1
  10. 6 hours ago, rigradio said:

    Hahaha...do you see a burned dslr in the pic?
    Do you think I'm so stupid and don't know about 2S2P?

    It might be worth explaining your build when you post photos because others might not be as intelligent as you, and just think that you have 4 x 3.7v batteries stuck together. 

    • Like 2
  11. On 11/03/2017 at 01:07, rigradio said:

    Found unused laptop battery and though I can use it to power-up my Canon 60D.
    And...it works :D







    How many volts??? Li-Ion cells are 3.7v each, so multiply by 4 = 16.4v when fully charged. Good luck with that! 

  12. I used these PWM's, and once you take them apart, you end up with exactly the same thing as you posted above http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PWM-Dimmer-Controller-LED-Light-Lamp-Strip-Adjustable-Brightness-12V-24V-8A-FT-/111865802969?hash=item1a0bb8b0d9:g:WNEAAOSwKtlWihRN 

    30 Amp is massive, are you powering an oven? :) I agree with having a main fuse as soon as the power comes from the battery, and then having every circuit have separate fuses rated just above the expected draw.  My main fuse is 5 amp, but I expect to rise to 7.5 amp perhaps.

  13. Got my first undercoat on today.




    Tomorrow I will give it a light rub over with 240, get another coat on, another sand with 600, then start with the top coat. I thin my paint down 60/40 with white spirit so it goes on smoother and dries quicker. Good sanding in between each coat of finish paint and tack ragged off, top coat after will get a wet rub over with 1200 wet and dry, should get a nice shiny finish once buffed. 

    • Like 1
  14. On 07/03/2017 at 16:05, Alpollo said:

    Generally the charging rate is less then the discharge rate of devices, in that case the fuse won't be harmed by charging through it.

    Adding a second smaller fuse to just the charger is up to you, as the other fuse might be too large to protect your charger, generally speaking.

    I've only just seen this post, and would like to add that, if your battery is low of charge, and your charger can put out 5 amps, fitting a smaller fuse will be no good, as the charger (unless it's an intelligent type), will punch in the maximum it can, up to the 5 amps. If it is going through a 3 amp fuse it will blow. You could make a split via diodes to stop the higher charge rate blowing a small fuse on the load circuit, but that's just not worth the hassle, rather than take the easy route and have 2 sets of sockets. That way, you'll have the ability to use both sets when not charging. 

  15. The bigger the battery in amp hour (Ah) the longer your sessions will be. Consider the equation with ALL of your equipment working together. If you don't use all of your gear, then you'll get a little longer. Remember, the bigger the battery, the dearer it will be, and the heavier it will be. @MarkyD has given you the calculation above to help with battery selection.

    Cigarette sockets are not the ideal as they tend to be rather loose in the socket, and can cause power drop-outs. Remember also that weatherproof sockets are'nt weatherproof when the socket is open.

    Buck converters are cheap (about£2 each!) allowing you to drop voltages safely, but if they fail, then the full 12v will pass through (from what I've read). Have a look at my project below. I've used 2 of these in mine, and on the one that will be used for my DSLR, I have built a very simply circuit that is after the converter, which only allows 9v to the camera should the buck fail. Should that fail, then the voltage stops and cannot pass. 

     In regards to chargers, this is the one I use for all of my SLA leisure Deep Cycle batteries, and can be left connected permanently http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sakura-Car-Van-4x4-Bike-12v-6v-5-3A-Automatic-Intelligent-Smart-Battery-Charger-/301663140633?hash=item463c863b19:g:askAAOSwmtJXa-11 

    • Like 1
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