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Posts posted by Daz69

  1. On 06/04/2017 at 23:19, fozzybear said:

    It was just off the top of my head back in the days when I did R/C modelling sorry to confuse anyone. after looking it is a molex

    From my R/C days as well, and rubbish Ni-Cads :D  Wish we had LiPos and brushless motors back then.

    • Like 1
  2. 22 hours ago, fozzybear said:

    the connector looks like a "Tamiya" one used for R/C modelling you could try a model shop for it.  if one of the plastic part of the pin  is round and the other is square they are usually used on battery packs. hope this helps



    It's certainly not a Tamiya connector, or even an old one. The lock tab on the Tamiya's is always on top to avoid wrong connection.

    • Like 1
  3. I use this for my batteries, and it can be left attached permanently, as I do with my caravan leisure battery. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sakura-Car-Van-4x4-Bike-12v-6v-5-3A-Automatic-Intelligent-Smart-Battery-Charger-/301663140633?hash=item463c863b19:g:askAAOSwmtJXa-11 

    I bought mine about 4-5 years ago, at twice the price. 4 stage computer controlled, keeps the battery in it's best condition by cycling it. 

    Further to my first post, the charger you use will just throw in what it spits out, and will not tailor each charge to what the battery needs, whereas a computer controlled stage charger will. Your batteries will last much longer too.

  4. What is the output of the charger? If it is 500mah, then at the extremely very best, it will take up to 24hrs to charge that battery. The real output is usually less than what is stated.

    Put a volt meter on the battery and see how many volts are in it. Chances are that the charger recognised the reverse polarity when you switched on, and didn't charge it (or blow it up!) . 

    One suggestion is, throw the charger away, those things are useless and get a proper charger for real piece of mind, not wishing to be rude. 

  5. Your SW200 will have a collimation cap already. Lasers are good PROVIDING that they too are collimated, and to do that you need to make a collimation rig (check youtube) and test it on a wall or similar, and the further away the better. I bought a Segen one, a cheapy in comparison to others, and it was badly collimated. Therethen followed hours of fiddling to get it to a point of some accuracy. I ended up getting the FLO premium cheshire (twice the price of the laser!) and find this the best. 

    I use the laser to get the secondary right, and the cheshire for the secondary. 

  6. 11 minutes ago, BeerMe said:

    I wouldn't do it myself, I just wondered if that might be an easier way.  Removing the primary just scares the hell out of me.

    I understand what you're saying, but the easiest way is not always the best, or safest way. There is no right way as such, you do it however you want, but the best way to protect your expensive glassware is to remove it.

    In regards to removing the mirrors, don't be afraid to. So long as you work on a table with a soft towel under the OTA , and place the mirror face up away from where you work, and without any kids/pets that may grab it or knock it, you'll be fine. Learning how to collimate isn't difficult, my first attempt to get my Celestron set up (secondary was literally hanging by a thread when I unboxed it) took my quite a while, but when my SW200 came (secondhand), the first thing I did was whip both mirrors out to thoroughly clean the inside of the OTA, to check the mirrors, and do the secondary mod of fitting a large washer and plastic disc. Collimating that took a third of the time. I've got to take mine out again soon as I'll be fitting the shoe for my Rigel finder, and fitting a fan to the rear of the primary. Just work slowly, and methodically. 

    • Like 1
  7. 5 hours ago, BeerMe said:

    Thanks for bringing this up JOC, I've been wondering about the implications and knowhow for drilling holes in an OTA too!

    I seen a 10" Dob on ABS and the seller had attached a long (bathroom towel rail long) handle on to the OTA for ease of carrying. 

    The method I had considered, so that I wouldn't have to remove the primary, would be too stick self-adhesive pads inside the OTA where I wanted to drill the holes, then drill lightly through til I hit the pads, vacuum out anything from the hole on the outside of the OTA, then remove the sticky pads and any shards that would have dropped in to the OTA are hopefully stuck to them.  In theory, I think this could work but I'm terrible at DIY....

    Why not remove the primary? For 2 minutes work you could save the heartache of having a scratched mirror. Personally, and this is my thought, I certainly wouldn't trust a ha'penny sticky pad to save damaging an expensive mirror. As an expert DIY'er (IMO) and having a woodwork workshop, I have had many times when both my Dewalt and Bosch battery drills unknowingly release the drill bit whilst removing the bit from the drilled hole. That's not user error, but an unwanted trait of quick-release speed chucks. 

    Of course you may very well be lucky and all will work out fine doing it your way, but in case someone else is looking at doing this job themselves, I advise against it. 

  8. I drilled a hole for my Rigel quick finder shoe. Don't be afraid to do this so long as you feel confident enough, but you really have to be reckless to do a messed up job.

    Eyeball where you want the shoe to go, and lay down some masking tape. Replace the shoe to confirm position, and if happy, accurately mark out for your hole/s. Remove the primary mirror IF you are clear of the secondary, but if you are directly over the secondary, remove it also. To not remove the optics is where people go wrong, so don't chance your luck. Preferably I'd remove both. 

    Use a 2mm pilot drill to start each hole. Drill straight and slowly, keeping the bit perpendicular to the tube to stop any slip and scratching, and keep the drill light (don't press down, just use the drill's weight and if the bit is sharp it will go through). After each drill size, clear out the swarf ensuring the tube is clean. Once you've taken the hole out to the size of the bolt you'll use, check the inside of the tube to ensure that there is no swarf still hanging from the hole. If there is, break it off and thoroughly clean the inside of the tube before attaching the shoe. Once the shoe is secure and tight (use a nyloc nut for security), make sure all tools are out of the tube, and then re-fit the optics. Job done............ apart from collimation :)  10 minute job maximum, not including a tea break. 

    • Like 1
  9. On 27/03/2017 at 21:20, Stu said:

    Nice one Daz.

    I use an iPhone 6 with the app ProCam 4. This allows you to control focus and exposure very well. Reducing exposure is what will allow the detail to come through.

    This one was taken in that way, hand held at the eyepiece. A higher power eyepiece will also help bring the glare down a bit.


    That was on your phone? Wow! I was told of a holder for the phone to hold it at the eyepiece he other week, so I'll order one. 

    I think because I was hand-held, I had no choice but to use the 32mm because I couldn't find the sweet spot, so my question now is, with a phone holder, would I then be able to use the 10mm and perhaps even use the barlow as well?

  10. Thanks peeps. I wasn't sure at first, thinking am I seeing things as my image is upside down and the spot was on the upper mid band and appearing like a lump on the edge of that band, but as my eye became accustomed, it was a definite brighter orangey earthy red than the band. 

    I feel that I am rather lucky being a new astronomer to see that so soon in my hobby. 

    • Like 2
  11. After seeing Jupiter for the first time ever a week or so ago, tonight I finally got to see the Great Red Spot! It was after midnight that it started coming into view, and I was up against the clock, but I'm glad I waited for it :D  Extremely happy to say the least. 

    • Like 8
  12. Just now, Peje said:

    If you had to choose, would thin or straight be the higher priority?

    Both! If you can anchor the wire at each end tightly, that's an anchor around the secondary mirror boss and the other anchor being outside the OTA, before both ends of the vane, then you get a straight wire easily. How thin you go is dependant on the power draw the strap uses, and the amperage of the wire used. You could probably get as low as using 1-2 amp wire to feed the heat strap. If a pair of wires are still too thick, split them and have one wire going along one vane and the other wire going along another. 

    Do a Google search for wire gauge size in accordance to amp rating to see how thin you can go. Technically, If you have metal vanes and they are isolated from each other and the metal OTA (if it is metal or other conductive material), then you could use the vane as your wire. 

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