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Everything posted by The-MathMog

  1. I was out a couple of nights ago, mainly to test out my in-door setup for taking pictures, after acquiring cables for powering the DSLR, data transfer from DSLR to PC, and telescope control. It works out great, only nickle I have with it is the focusing aspect, as I have to run in and out to check it. Need to figure that out. But oh well, I figured that I'd try shooting one of my favorite galaxies, the "Black Eye Galaxy". It's been one of my favorite ever since I saw the hubble photo of it, making it literally look like a "corrupt" galaxy. I had several issues, both with focusing, proper ba
  2. Personally I find it useful, but mostly only when the moon is close to full. At that point it is uncomfortable for me to look at it, even only through a 5'' Reflector. Not painful, just uncomfortable and the filter helps quite a bit with that.
  3. From what I've heard, the general maximum length is 5 meters. Anything longer than that and you need an Active Usb extender cable. I got one of those, which is 10 meters going from my DSLR to my laptop, and it works perfectly.
  4. That right there could look like shaking caused by the DSLR flipping the mirror into place. That will show vibrations in even very short exposures. Try to look in the settings for something like "Exposure Delay Mode" or something similar, which makes the exposure start a second after the mirror has made its movement, making the vibrations settle before taking the picture. On another note, you would have to make the exposure even shorter to get out the details on Jupiter too, as it is very bright
  5. Sorry but I don't have a solution to getting dss to work that out for you. But why not just manually stack the two outputs, the stacked 30 second frame and the stacked 4 min one? It can easily be done in either photoshop or gimp which is free and then you can also experiment with different opacities, to either favor more of the 4 min data or more of the 30 second data, or only using the 30 second data for the cores. The stacking itself can easily be done with the blending modes, where "difference" mode is a great tool, and then turning one layer on and off to see if they line up properly
  6. Alright then. I did have quite a lot worse coma when I put the barlow closer to the camera. That was quite horrendous. And yeah this is actually a full frame, at least the first image. Right now I am stuck at using the barlow lens, for focus reasons, at least until I can find a place that sells the right screws for me to move the primary mirror up the tube. From what I've heard and read, is should be about the equivalent of the HEQ5 mount, with maybe a slightly lower payload. Definitely I will! At this point I've been able to get some 3 minute unguided subs, but the periodic errors make me
  7. Haha indeed it was a intense! It was all done in Photoshop CS2. Stacking, subtracting darks and stretching. And you might be right. But that sub example was also one of the better subs, most of the subs had worse data or worse stars too because of the wind, which is also apparent in the final image as I just used all the frames, making them all "stretch and blur" in one direction. Processing the images is still very new to me, so a bit of a learning curve, and as of right now, I try to not overdo it whenever I do it. A coma corrector and auto-guiding is indeed my next step in astrophotog
  8. Went out Tuesday night to do some more practice with my new Celestron AVX mount, as a clear night was predicted. I wanted to improve my polar alignment and tested drift alignment for the first time. It came out very well, and I thought that I'd better not let it go to waste, so I went on to capture M51. The thing is though, I had neglected/underestimated how much wind there would be that night, and it got horrible very quick. The medium wind (according to weather stations) was around 10m/s with gusts being more than that at its peak, but stubborn as I was I just endured it, knowingly that t
  9. Rookie question. What does the QE percentage stand for?
  10. And to add on to the Bahtinov mask suggestion. You can also create one yourself. Just find a template with the correct size online. Print it out, tape/glue it on top of a thin or thick piece of cardboard and then cut out the holes with a utility knife. Then it is just about adding a few pieces that will hold it in place. It takes a bit of time, but is easy. It might not be AS accurate as one made professionally, but it will still produce the desired spikes.
  11. Indeed haha, forgot that minor important part
  12. I recently got hands on my first equatorial mount, a Celestron Advanced VX mount.. And the curse holds true, that after purchasing new gear, you are to bear the burden of weeks of bad weather! So whenever there has been minor holes in the clouds, I've been out practicing star alignment, polar alignment, and just the general behavior of the mount, pointing at any star that would glance through the thin cloud cover. Hope to soon be able to practice drift alignment. A patch of "clear sky" showed itself a few nights ago, so I thought I would try and see how far I could push the unguided exposur
  13. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    Taking advantage of a short break in the cloud cover. Although a thin layer is still present.
  14. The shape of the stars very likely is a case of, sub length being too close to the limitations of the tracking accuracy. Drifting, if done thoroughly of course, will be a lot more accurate than by using polaris as a guide. But nice pictures nonetheless. For 1 minute subs you are at least somewhat polar aligned. I know for one, that my images didn't look like this, after my first nights with an equatorial mount Your background is quite black too, so I think you could also try increasing the ISO and then maybe decrease the exposure length, to improve the star shapes. And then of course shoot
  15. All you pretty much need to get started is a T2 ring, if you don't have one, specific to the brand of camera you have, canon in this case, and a T-Adapter if your scope doesn't have threads that lets it connect directly. Like this https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings.html
  16. Drift alignment as mentioned, is a possibility, as all it really needs is a camera capable of doing exposures of a few minutes. And it can be really accurate depending on how much effort you wanna put into it, and it takes software calculations (All Star Polar Allignment for example) out of the equation. And to the original post, it sounds like an interesting feature. Are you just using your main imaging camera, or how do you go about it?
  17. Not really good at processing either, but I figured I would give it a try anyway, just as a practice routine for myself nonetheless. This is what I could bring out of it. And I cropped it a bit, as the image had some stacking artifacts at the edges Test Process.tif
  18. +1 for happy-kat's suggestion. They are quite simple and very useful, and can also be found on youtube.
  19. Here is a list of stars that you could try out http://www.universetoday.com/111716/14-red-dwarf-stars-to-view-with-backyard-telescopes/
  20. With that extreme coma, the picture produced is actually quite beautiful in a unique way.
  21. Great capture. I literally just discovered this comet by accident while looking around with Stellarium. If the clouds permit it, I'll try giving it a go, when its magnitude peaks. Stellarium says that it peaks around 6.7 magnitude around April 12th. Is that correct? Also with these 4 minute subs, do you need to actually track its slight movement? Or is the field of view big enough, and subs short enough, for it not to matter?
  22. I was surprised that I could at least distinguish parts of its features! That aspect of simple astrophotography amazes me! Ahh yeah, those are beautiful object too that I will definitely add to my practice. M82 I have managed a bit, a few times, but with M81 I was only able to reveal the fuzzy core. After a lot of time searching, as the SLT mount would not center the objects in the eyepiece. The AVX mount with its calibration stars improves this a LOT, and that intrigued me after last nights test! M27 might also start to become a possibility now as it gets higher in the sky. Unfortunat
  23. So guys, I would like to know what objects you guys think, are a good place to start when getting into astrophotography, others than the obvious ones of course. By those I mean the Planets, Orion Nebula, Pleidies, The Andromeda Galaxy. Not that they are necessarily easy, as you could keep improving on them and pull out more data. Just that they are the well know obvious go-to ones. I've just acquired my first equatorial mount, a Celestron AVX mount, and I will be doing a lot of practice, getting used to the mount, the sky, and my limitations in terms of visibility, before I go deeper into a
  24. I think you are right about that, and I might have just misspoken it. I believe it was a national museum that got hands on them, and it wasn't so much bought, as it was a "finder's fee"
  25. I just bought a Advanced VX Mount, and had to find a power supply from a local store. I looked at what the measurements, of power supplies that are regularly sold with the mount, were and found an equivalent. The measurements were described on FLO at least. AVX and CGEM seem to use the same plug, which has the measurements: Inner/Outer Diameter - 2.1mm/5.5mm and depth of 12mm
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