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The-MathMog

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Everything posted by The-MathMog

  1. Indeed looks like a combination of, focus, tilt/collimation and of course a lack of coma corrector But I've had decent results in the past from sub-optimal subs. So go for it and see what it brings
  2. Of course I value my eyes a thousandfold over my equipment, hence the "joking" part! And that is why I am here, and on several other sites asking for advice, instead of just plunging into it, as I know how dangerous doing it the wrong way can be. Is the 150 pds, not suitable, or simply not recommended for the practice? As I am hesitant of wanting to cash out for a new scope, to only observe the sun. I know that I would not be spending nearly as much time on this, as deep-sky astrophotography. Thanks for the input!
  3. Ahh right, we are literally in the middle of a solar minimum, right? How unfortunate Might still buy one, just to add to my collection, and getting used to that side of it. Yeah, even a scope like that is at quite a cost, for something that isn't going to be my main occupation. Thanks a lot for the answer, as that helps level expectations with reality!
  4. So, I am going to take my first steps into observing and hopefully imaging the sun, and get myself a filter for the telescope, just so that I have something to do, when I am working nightshifts, or the weather is bad at night. From what I can see, all I would need is a filter like this one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/astrozap-baader-solar-filter.html. Is that so, or is there anything else that you would highly recommend that I get, and why? My telescope is a Skywatcher 150PDS on a Celestron AVX mount. On the same time, I am looking at buying a baader hydrogen alpha 3mm fil
  5. As many others, I was out taking pictures of the Lunar Eclipse this Friday. Though the moon didn't rise until half way through the eclipse, and clouds coming in just as it rose above the horizon, it cleared out and I gave it a go! I hadn't planned doing an actual time-lapse, hence why the exposure length and color balance is all over the place. Not until I sat down and had a look at the pictures at least. Some of them I tried to fix with Photoshop, but it was honestly a very big task at hand, so I only did minor adjustments, and then just added the some stills at the end of it. But have a
  6. I'd say just start out with the one that you got. With that one you can get some great widefield milkyway images, and the tracking will be very forgiving, so it is an easy way to start out when learning. More focal length is not always better, and will be more difficult to handle
  7. Indeed just looks out of focus. Is there anything optically that you change after focusing? Filters, spacer, anything? And do you only focus in the beginning or during the session? If you only focus at the start, dropping temperatures during the night, or even just a scope that hasn't cooled yet, will change the focus over time.
  8. But if you want one of the Astrozaå Flexible Dew shields from there, I would simply write to them and ask what size they would recommend for that scope. They are pretty quick to answer. Also, they are quite flexible with their size, as you can just change what part of the velcro you attach it to. I also have a Celestron 130SLT and I could fit my 6 inch (150 mm) astrozap onto it. I just had to tighten the velcro a bit. So my guess would be that you can simply buy any of the 5 inch ones, and make it fit in the end
  9. Still your first assessment was correct I think. Had a look at the histogram, and blue was pushing ever so slightly. But yeah, I just recently got a stationary pc, with a 1440p monitor, and a lot of the projects that I'd done earlier, doesn't look as good as I once thought they did Just recently I even finished the processing of an image, only to figure out that the monitor's "Blue Light Filter" was on!
  10. Thank you very much. I have really put a lot of time into the processing of it, more than I probably could've, so that is very nice to hear! I'll have a look at that. As that has been one of the hardest things for me. The background looked too red, then I changed it, and then it looked too blue, reiteratted again, and then it looked too green! haha
  11. First time in a long time I have been out with the camera and telescope. The bad weather has just always lined up with my nights off of work. And boy have we had a lot of bad weather over the winter.. So I thought I would return to a favorite of mine, and one I tried imaging last year too. Unfortunately, the "astronimically dark nights" are already done for this part of the year, so I could only squeeze a few hours in of imaging over the two nights I did this, the get the darkest of them, and had some telescope issues the second night, so I had to scrap 1/3 of the images. The first
  12. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    Messier 64 (The Black Eye Galaxy) Skywatcher 150PDS Celestron AVX Mount Nikon D5200 ISO 800 26 subs, 8 mins 3 hours, 28 min total (over 2 nights as it only gets nautical dark here) Manually stacked and processed in Photoshop CS2 Dark frames used, but only 6 of them.
  13. Ahh yeah, you're right about that. I haven't had the scope out of the rings for a long time, but it must've slightly rotated in some way either way during the assembly/disassembly. Might need to slightly tighten the rings. The difference between the spikes ARE very small, but noticable. Still a great advice
  14. Don't know why I never thought of that. I literally just added some more subs to a target, taken two days after, with the subs being almost aligned but not perfectly, hence why the stars now have double diffraction spikes.. Thanks for the idea
  15. Stunning image for such a short time, but I haven't heard anything but good things about the Takahashi scopes either. Just curious. How big of a difference does the IDAS make for the light pollution? I live in a suburban city with about the same light pollution as you it seems, so checking out my options at getting the most out of the sky! Cheers.
  16. Thank you very much. This session went a lot better than I had ever anticipated, when I first pulled out the scope. It is the first time I try doing a mosaic and using AstroTortilla to line it up. All programs behaved well, and the guiding was spot on for once. On top of that, it was a quite cold night, so the telescope was covered in ice, but I guess my DSLR was just loving that
  17. You could call this my first proper attempt at andromeda, thought I've imaged it quite a few times now. But this is the first time I've managed to get most of it in one picture, which required me to do a two-pane mosaic. The left side of the mosaic is stitched 27 subs of 2 minutes ISO 3200, while the right side is 28 subs, + 1 sub of 8 minutes ISO 800 (just to test what difference exposure contra ISO does to details). I am very pleased with the result of it, but I also discovered some of the pains of doing mosaics, as getting an even background was very hard. Gradient X-terminator would d
  18. From the album: The-MathMog's Images

    2-pane mosaic 56 subs (ISO 3200 and 800) 2 minute exposure (+one 8 minute) Skywatcher 150pds Celestron Advanced VX Mount Nikon D5200 Explore Scientific HR Coma Corrector 7235x5838 pixels
  19. Simply adjusting the color balance would help that picture out a lot. More red, less cyan, and some tweaks here and there I honestly do that quite often too, as I can find that pulling out color afterwards can be quite hard. Hence, why I also align the color channels, and give like a 20% saturation boost in DSS, and saving that
  20. Gave it a go. Here is my result. My only real advice, and something I see you're aware of, is to take dark frames. There is streaks of hot pixels throughout the picture, which is hard to do much about, without meticulously patching them away one by one. Although, "Hasta La Vista Green" does a decent job of removing the green ones
  21. What is the sub lengths, and how many did you take? That might also give a clue into how much detail you can pull out of it.
  22. Looking at the smaller stars, it looks more like tracking errors to me. Where it exposes on some pixels, moves slightly (backlackish or bump), and then exposes on some just next to it. Even if it was only in one frame, then it would still show through when only stacking 8 images. But if it is tracking-errors, it might be periodic errors causing them. But just to fill in some other info. Are you guiding? And what mount do you use?
  23. +1 for budgetastro. You can find his videos on youtube under "Doug German", those were the videos that got me started! https://www.youtube.com/user/namregd/videos
  24. Can't find anything astro-related to the peaks in the picture, but just behind them on Sairécabur, there is the Receiver Lab Telescope that works in the terahertz range And to the right of the picture's orientation as mentioned is the Cerro Toco where the The Atacama Cosmology Telescope and the Huan Tran Telescope (POLARBEAR) lies. That is one weird looking polarbear though!
  25. The only one that then comes to mind, is the "European - Extremely Large Telescope"? But the site doesn't quite look right to me.
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