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Posts posted by marcus_z

  1. For Sale:

    • TeleVue Nagler T6 5mm - 229€ (approx. ~204GBP)
    • 2x TeleVue Nagler T6 7mm - each for 219€ (~approx. 190GBP)
    • TeleVue Nagler T6 13mm - 229€ (approx. ~204GBP)
    • Takahashi HI-LE 2.8mm - 275€ (approx. ~245GBP)

    all eyepieces in very good condition

    international postage: 21€ (approx. ~19GBP)

    payment via bank transfer or paypal friends





    • Like 1

  2. For sale:

    • one of two Feather Touch Lightweight Focusers - you choose silver / black - 499€ (approx. ~446 GBP)
    • Starlight Instruments A20-304 - 2" Adapter für Takahashi FS-78, FSQ-85, FC-100D - 125€ (approx. ~111GBP)
    • Starlight Instruments R20-1.4 - 2“ Riser 2.0" Diameter adds 1.4" (35,6mm) to Length of Base - 65€ (approx. ~58GBP)

    international postage t.b.d.

    payment via bank transfer or paypal friends











  3. 32 minutes ago, Victor Boesen said:

    Wow, that's a very nice solution. You mentioned unscrewing the focuser on the vixen which I haven't thought about. Are you sure it can be unscrewed?


    Yes, it is definitely possible to unscrew it. The focuser of the ED81S has the same concept as the Takahashi focusers and similar performance. It has 60mm inner diameter.

    • Thanks 1

  4. 56 minutes ago, Stu said:

    That point is one reason I chose the Airport Accelerator. I have a Pelicase 1510, but it actually weighs quite a slot itself, so is not practical for airlines with 10kg limits. There is a lighter version (1535 I think) which wo u ld be better but it was slightly too long for the 550mm limit Norwegian Airlines have.

    I managed to get bang on 10kg even including a couple of 2" eyepieces and the Giro-WR mount.

    The weight of the 1510 is insane: 6,2kg with cubed foam. If you fly Lufthansa you have 1,8kg left for the rest of the stuff - that's a no-go. On the other hand I would never use a soft-case. Therefore I went for a Peli 1525 air (3.2kg with foam).

    Here's my (almost complete) setup:

    • FC-76D objective unit + FS-60CB tube + Starlight Instruments adapter A20-302 + FTF2025BCR-LW
    • Borg 80mm Rings + Vixen Dovetail (#2662)
    • Televue Nagler 26, 13, 7, 5, 3.5
    • Baader Clicklock Diagonal + 1,25" Clicklock Adapter
    • 2" Baader OIII + Astronomik UHC-E filter

    The total weight is below 8kg, dimensions are 55.8 x 35.5 x 19 cm. But don't ask me for prices...?


    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  5. Please consider the same disassembly for cabin luggage as in the FC-76DCU and FC-100DC/DF. The length of the ED81SII is 585mm. If you unscrew the focuser you save approximately 100mm. So the ED81S is as portable as the mentioned Taks! Please also note that the ED81S has quite a lot of baffles to reduce straylight, which continue all the way into the focuser drawtube. From a quality point of view I would rather compare the ED80Sf to the TS and ES scopes. These are in a diffentent (lower) league. Having said that, the Tak FC-76DC is in my opinion a tad better than the ED81S. The question you have to answer for yourself is: For how many trips do you want to use the scope, and how much would you want to pay for this (probably small) number of uses? From a baggage allowance point of view, I think that the harder limit is the weight of the hand luggage. A hardcase, scope, diagonal and the eyepiece set in total under 8kg. That should not be taken too easy.

    • Like 1

  6. As a former owner of a 10" Dobson and user of the Report and SXG-HAL130 as well as the FC-100DC and the FC-100DL, I recommend the SXG-HAL 130 and the DF. The report might be OK, but not perfect at 200x magnification, especially if you don't have a micro focuser. The HAL130 is lighter than the UNI and more than enough.

    The DF version has a very good color correction and does not need a pier extension for the zenith. Therefore, I think this will serve you better especially with those wider fields.

    • Like 3

  7. 58 minutes ago, JeremyS said:

    Are you planning to fit a finderscope, @marcus_z?

    No, I don't think I need one. For planets I just use the tube as orientation. For deep sky I might just use the lowest magnification eyepiece as a finder. A Panoptic 41 gives a 4.6 degree TFOV and 14x Magnification. That is almost like a finder, but with much better aberration control and eye relief. But I'm not 100% sure about the low mag eyepieces which I should use for travel...


    I'm thinking about a Masuyama 45mm, which gives a 6mm pupil and should work good with filters. Maybe a 16mm Nagler for open clusters, but then I don't know which eyepiece to take between the two...

    • Like 2

  8. 4 hours ago, Pig said:

    Some decent skies last night and a list of targets to compare. I spent around 2 hours swapping between the 3 eyepieces

    My first target was the Lunar surface with the NZ set at 3mm. After checking out various lunar features it was very apparent that  all 3 eyepieces were not going to struggle with this first challenge and apart from the differing magnifications delivered I could not say any of the 3 were better or worse than the other.... Okay .... Time for the fully dressed Baader VIP, which I believe is about 2.3 x, to make an entrance? Once  again all 3 eyepieces we’re giving great views and took this crazily high magnification in their stride... so which eyepiece bested the others ? The answer is none of them !!! .... if anything the scope has to be given the merit because it was able to cope with the demands of these eyepieces and deliver excellent views at crazy magnifications ? The HR and TOE also delivered brighter views than the NZ at their given focal lengths

    Now Jupiiter... Quite an obvious winner here... the HR 2.4 was too much power as the detail on the planets surface was a bit soft and the four moons were slightly puffed up... The TV zoom gave excellent views with clear separation of around three bands and some other detail (I used the whole range of the zoom) The TOE was the best and gave some moments of wonderful detail between four bands, even bringing out some noticible orangey colour as the seeing drifted in and out. I think the TOE 4 mm is the perfect eyepiece for Jupiter in my TAK delivering 180x ?

    Next I chose a variety of coloured doubles which included, tight separations, vibrant colours, distant separations. The area of the sky was Cassiopeia and the targets are listed below :-

    Sigma Cass, HR 904 Cass, Shedar Alpha Cass, Achird Aetna Cass, Iota Cass, WZ Cass 

    Summary - The HR bested Iota as this triple is quite tight and the third star can be quite dim, but not a problem for this eyepiece. The other two eyepieces were once again admirable but the 2.4 HR bested it because it could go to that higher mag place and keep it there.

    The TOE did much better than the other two on the colours and this was demonstrated perfectly by the lovely red of Archird and the detail with Jupiter.

    The NZ did hold its own and it’s strongest attribute is its versatility of range but in my experience during this test it does drop a little behind the other two. Fantastic eyepiece all the same.

    So this leaves the other two and I am going to give it to the TOE as it gave the best views of Jupiter and pulled out the colours of the doubles better (it was just like having a Pentax XW in the diagonal again) The TOE  also has a favourable FOV over the HR. I would like to try a higher powered TOE to see how it competes with the HR 2.4mm with regard to observing tight separations.

    All in all a great night ... ?

    The Eyepieces.


    The Scope.


    Does anyone know why some Takahashi serial-number plates are golden, and some are silver?

    • Like 2

  9. Check TeleVue's recommendation here: Eyepieces for 6" to 10" Dobsonians with 1,200mm Focal Lengths basically they recommend Ethos 21, 13, 8, and 6. I think that's a perfect set. If you use filters quite often, then you could replace the Ethos 21 with the Nagler 31. Temporarily I had the following set: Nagler 31, Ethos 13, 6, 3.7 that's also something to consider. So I would recommend to plan three to four 100° eyepieces.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  10. Recently I acquired a second-hand FC-100DC with MEF-3. I don't think that the MEF-3 is the optimum, because there is some flex in the sheetmetal plate that attaches to the housing. I expect the FTF micro pinon to be more precise due to less backlash. But certainly since Tak focusers vary quite a bit one might be equally satisfied with his/her copy.

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