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Posts posted by marcus_z
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There's also the 3" Feather Touch, which can be adapted with the A30-1903-85. All Feather Touch focusers can be motorized.
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Ken, if the 71FL is an option for you, I can offer you an objective lens assembly. For reference, you can find professional measurements of a 71FL here: Wellenform - Zertifizierte Fernoptik - Objektive - Angebot. Their conclusion is: "When focusing on green (546nm), blue (486nm) is very well diffraction-limited, and yellow (589nm) almost diffraction-limited. Red (656nm) is defocused and is therefore below the diffraction limit of 0.80 strehlpoints. Because perception of red is weak in the dark, the red color fringes (resulting from the defocusing of red) can only be seen very faintly, if at all." I think that conclusion is right and resembles my experience at the eyepiece.
The 71FL is shorter and lighter than the FC-76D. If deep-sky is your priority, the 71FL/72FL might be more interesting for you, for shallow-sky the 76D might be more interesting. One thing is sure, the 71FL offers more aperture and less weight than the FS-60CB (at a higher price).
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Hi,
in case you would like to change the focuser to a 3" Feather Touch: I am offering the matching adapter and endcap for the 3" FTF in the classifieds section of this forum.
Cheers,
Marcus
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It is the MPA-TAK2.5, although some people have mounted the 2.7 on their model as well...
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Check out the Vixen-level dovetail bar with part number TKP71423 😉
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Hi Uli,
if you are confident, that you can sell the TSA-102 for the price you pay, then go for it! ? You should be aware of the higher mount requirements though.
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Hi Uli,
let's do our comparison again with two driven mounts ?. Since you are most interested in deep sky observation, the Borg 107FL might be interesting for you as well...
Clear skies,
Marcus
I can also put the DC on the less stable Advanced Polaris ?
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58 minutes ago, JeremyS said:
Are you planning to fit a finderscope, @marcus_z?
No, I don't think I need one. For planets I just use the tube as orientation. For deep sky I might just use the lowest magnification eyepiece as a finder. A Panoptic 41 gives a 4.6 degree TFOV and 14x Magnification. That is almost like a finder, but with much better aberration control and eye relief. But I'm not 100% sure about the low mag eyepieces which I should use for travel...
I'm thinking about a Masuyama 45mm, which gives a 6mm pupil and should work good with filters. Maybe a 16mm Nagler for open clusters, but then I don't know which eyepiece to take between the two...
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4 hours ago, Peter Drew said:
It seems to take a lot of aftermarket help to operate one of these Taks satisfactorily.
That might be, but one would not even think about upgrading the focuser of a 500€ scope with a 500€ focuser. Focusing a 2,4mm eyepiece in a loaded turret which weights 1,5kg is "When only the the best will do!"
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Recently I acquired a second-hand FC-100DC with MEF-3. I don't think that the MEF-3 is the optimum, because there is some flex in the sheetmetal plate that attaches to the housing. I expect the FTF micro pinon to be more precise due to less backlash. But certainly since Tak focusers vary quite a bit one might be equally satisfied with his/her copy.
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You guys are too concerned about the type of telescope you have
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37 minutes ago, 25585 said:
How are your uses of the 2 going to differ?
That I don't really know :-) They are quite redundant.
I wanted to have the DL first and then changed my mind to get the DC. Now at the second production run I could not resist and ordered a DL. In the long run, I want to build a binoscope with two DCs. And then I have the DL as a single.
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Some days ago, I received my FC-100DL, which is a complement to my FC-100DC :-) Two wonderful scopes...
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1 hour ago, 25585 said:
What Moonlite flange fits the FC range?
The OTAs have a M95x1 male thread. If you take the DC, then you can remove just the focuser, with or without the extension tube, and use an adapter with a male M77.5X1 thread. If you go the Starlight Intruments route, you can use:
A20-304 for DC, DF, and DL
A20-302 for DC
A30-1903-85 for DC, DF, and DL
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2 hours ago, pystab said:
I understand you can push it where you want or turn the slo-mo knobs, and when you let go the clock drive just takes over, no hunting for clamps or clutches. marcus_z, any comments?
Hi Tim, that's it exactly. You can use it like a porta and move the scope freely without clutches. For fine movements you either turn the knobs or, on the motorized axes, you press buttons on the Starbook One.
I just want to make clear, that the FC-100D is at the limit of this mount. With the tripod legs not fully extended it definitely helps. Focusing at 200x needs a fine focus, because of vibrations. I usually sit on an astro-chair to reduce jitter. When you change from a lighter to a larger eyepiece you'll notice that it sags (e.g. when swithing from Tak LE5 to an Ethos 4.7). However, I have had really good observing sessions with this setup, but some of us could be disappointed. An ED81S/SD81S might be a far better match. Before the Tak I had an 80/480 triplet on the mount which was a perfect match. I recently acquired a 150/600 Newton which seems to be a good match for the AP as well. A 4" long focus refractor is definitely not recommended.
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Fortunately, I did not have problems and haven't heard of any. It seems like the few people who have vixen mounts don't complain in fora.
Takahashi rack and pinion parts
in Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups
Posted
Yes, I know