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gerardsheldon

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About gerardsheldon

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    Nebula
  1. Thanks. My mount is a HEQ5, so it does a good job when autoguiding. Using a barlow would mean the camera would be further away from the telescope which could cause balancing issues and shake possibly? don41 has got good results from using a focal extender - are there any issues I need to be aware of?
  2. I have a 130 Skywatcher pds f/5 and use a modified DSLR 1000D. Lots of astronomical objects, like the ring nebula and many galaxies, are really small in the sky. when I take pictures of them, they occupy a very small area in the photograph. Magnifying them with a barlow (I have 2x televlue one) would also make them fainter and my tracking would have to be good. Does anyone have any advice about whether I should use a barlow or not?
  3. Thanks for your posts. the model is a 8 Ah Li polymer tracer battery. Model is BP2544. I am bit confused as the HEQ operating voltage is between 11 volts and 15 volts and on that basis the Li polymer should be OK. The flashing lights is warning that the voltage is low but perhaps not too low. The light flashes more rapidly when the voltage drops further. However, there was one post above that says the HEQ5 is happier above 13volts. I'll probably just get another battery as I don't to take the risk of wasting my time. By the way, I find typing here very slow for some reason and the computer can freeze.
  4. I tested the tracer polymer battery over a six hour period and although the red light on the HEQ5 flashed most of the time, and more rapidly as time went on, the mount moved so that the time on setting circles changed by six hours, suggesting the mount will track OK. (the test was carried out during the day). I did not try to get the telescope to point in a different direction using the handset. 1) Should I be bothered by the flashing lights on the HEQ5 mount? 2) Is tracer misleading people by saying their batteries are 12 volts? (they say that their discharge curves are flat) I found that the battery's voltage falls. Below is from the Tracer datasheet. ---------------------------------------------------------- Built-in Fuel Gauge - 5 colour LED fuel gauge mounted externally to show charge level. LED Status: 3 green & 2 red: Battery fully charged 11.7V 2 green & 2 red: Over 50% capacity 11.4V 1 green & 2 red: Over 20% capacity 11.1V 2 red: Less than 20% capacity 10.7V 1 red: Less than 10% capacity 10.3V No lights: Battery empty 8.25V ---------------------------------------------------- Thanks Gerard
  5. Thanks everyone for your help and explanations. I am now going to spend time reading the PHD2 documentation.
  6. Thanks. I've never heard of a dark library or bad pixel map, so I'll google them. Gerard
  7. Thanks for the information. Perhaps I'll just start with PHD2, and then progress to EQMOD and PHD2. Once I am a bit familiar with PHD2, then I will try to use EQMOD with it. Gerard
  8. Thank you for then information. To use EQMOD and PHD, do I use cables as I described above, and add the following one between the Laptop and the handset slot:? https://www.365astronomy.com/HitecAstro-EQDIR-Adaptor-USB-HEQ5-Direct-Interface.html Do I have download both EQMOD and PHD2? (I have already downloaded EQMOD and ASCOM and carte de ciel). Gerard
  9. Thanks for the advice. There is so much to learn and sometimes it is not obvious where I should look for information. Gerard
  10. Thank you. I thought that was the case but annoying there are no instructions. Gerard
  11. I have a qhy5p-ii_c camera and want to use it for autoguiding. I am intending to use PHD I was provided with two cables, a guide cable and a USB one, and there are no diagrams or instructions about how to use the cables. I am intending to continue using the handset for my HEQ5 mount at the moment, but do want to move to EQMOD once I have the autoguiding sorted. (one step at a time). Do I connect the USB cable between the guide camera and my laptop, and the guide cable between the guide camera and the guide slot in my HEQ5 mount? (that seems to be the obvious thing to do but would like to be sure) Thank you Gerard
  12. Thank you for your answers. The title is "Mr" as I am new to the site and thought that they were asking my title as in Mr/Mrs/Miss. It was actually a chimney that I was using to calibrate my polarscope and that is what moved as the RA arm was moved. The explanation that the polarscope is not aligned mechanically to the axis of the insert seems likely. This would result in the polarscope not rotating about its own axis as the RA arm is moved. The question is: does it matter? I will be trying to answer my own question. Grateful for any thoughts.
  13. sorry didn't explain it clearly. I did adjust the polarscope so that the cross hairs stay on the same spot of an object when the RA arm is rotated. However the object itself seems to moves when the RA arm is moved. I would have thought the object I am looking at wouldn't move.
  14. When I look through my polarscope and rotate the RA arm, the cross hairs stay in the same place but the image itself moves. Is this a problem? I have tightened everything. Can you explain why the image moves? Is there another adjustment I need to do? Thank you, Gerard
  15. Thanks you all for your advice. I'll try to get better at the polar alignment and balancing the telescope first and see what happens. Good skills to have anyway. It seems that people move to the HEQ5 from the EQ5, and I'll do that before I get a guider.
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