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SlipperySquid

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About SlipperySquid

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    Sub Dwarf
  1. Thanks for the love Mick and Neil :grin: Though the next image may be a while due to the weather predicted over the next few weeks, though we live in hope! Have you gents got anything on the verge of been posted at the moment? I'm after the jellyfish but it's stll a bit low for me at the moment? Take care and clear skies Matt.
  2. Thanks again for the comments, I agree that some targets are better suited to hubble pallette irespective of the amount of Ha they contain (I once tried the flaming star nebula in narrowband,was not good ) Though narrowband lends it self better to my location due to the light pollution and poor skies.
  3. Great image mate! Though the stare (the orange ones anyway) seem to be oversaturated? The cocoon looks better in the second image but the stars look better in the first! I do love the star colour that's coming through though, I want that mount!
  4. Hi again Sam, Can't do anything with them images I'm afraid mate as the jpeg conversion has fluffed up the data but never mind.You're on the right track! Only problem I see at the moment is the stars. Small pinpoints of light with the fuzzy halo, I remember this happening to some of my images and I couldn't find out why some earlier processing work had better stars with the same setup. I found my answer was the stacking method, try using an alternative to sigma clip, maybe just "Median" or Sdmask to see if the stars improve? Other than that Sam it's just hours and hours of subs now I would say the most important thing about imaging is patience! Don't try and get 10 images in the first month (I know it's really hard not to just take a few shots and hit the next target).Stick to one image until you feel it's complete (though they never are ). I don't get really deep into processing, well not as far as some other people go, I just learn the bits I need as I go along and I'm still learning. As long as your image is in good focus and you have plenty of time on the target you will get a decent image, by plenty of time I mean a few hours on each channel!!! You will find after a couple of months that processing becomes a lot easier and you will produce a workflow that works best for you become comfortable with stretching and combining then move onto the harder things like masks etc, sometimes less really is more. Guiding really is a must for you with that setup. Try a finder guider setup as a cheap option to start (that's what I use) and I'm banging out 15 minute subs, though guiding itself introduces even more problems lol. You've chosen a nightmare of a hobby mate you really have. If you need any help with specifics just drop me a PM and I'll help you as much as I can. As to uploading tiffs, the only way I'd know is by using a free drop box site online to upload files to? Let me know how you get on, Clear skies, and may the force be with you (You're gunna need it) Matt.
  5. It's going to be awesome when finished mate! A very hard target to image, would you be interested in adding colour? Clear skies, Matt.
  6. Really excellent work Lewis, a lot of effort has gone into capturing this and it shows! It's making me want to crack out my DSLR again! Well done! Whats next? Clear skies, Matt.
  7. Thanks again ladies and gents! "Velvet" I totally get what you mean but for me I want the image to be interesting that is to say not just red or varying degrees of red with a smattering of pink. When I show people at home the images I produce, the false colour ones anyway, they are astounded by the multitude of colours that to them exist in space, the richness of varying cloud formations with there golden, turquoise and cyan hues! Do I tell them that actually what you are seeing is a representation of narrowband images mapped to falsely represent colour and edited in photoshop to better distinguish the different image lines? Of course not they all think that space is a multi coloured ,kaleidoscopic,rainbow of magic and to be honest I think they are better for it we all need some magic in our lives! I just want to make pretty space pictures to the best of my ability with the kit I've got for my own personal joy and for those I know that never take the time to look up at the night sky and wonder what is out there! Clear Skies all Matt.
  8. Thanks Martin! I could process the star halo's out in Pixinsight but to be honest I can't be bothered Though I may do it at a later date when we have our next month long cloud session ! Appreciate you taking the time out to have a look!
  9. Hi all, This is the first image I have completed for a while though I have another couple on the go that I hope to complete by the end of the year! So this one is "The wall" section of the North America nebula in the constellation of Cygnus. Has been a bit of a nightmare getting the data together due really poor skies but I managed to grab the last of my SII data around bonfire night. Image consists of 19x15 minute subs in both Ha and OIII and a further 24x15 minute subs in SII Image stacked and calibrated within MaximDl, processing duties taken care of within Photoshop cs4 and Pixinsight. CCD and scope where the ever venerable Atik 16hr and Megrez 72 I know the false colour palette is not to everyones tastes (Yes Olly that means you ) but I think this image has a lot going on with the colours subtly passing through each other,and I especially like the how the small stars in the dark dust clouds light up little pockets. I really like the final image but I'm always open to critique or ways to improve so fire away! The star halo's are an unfortunate side effect introduced when I popped in my Televue reducer/flattener though I tend to think it adds to image of the star being a bright source of light as opposed to just a white dot. Anyways as usual I waffle to much, have a looksee and see what you think! Clear skies all, Matt.
  10. Hi Les! The image looks too dark so I threw it into photoshop and the noticed that the black point is really clipped in all channels! the colours look nice but the overall whispyness has been reduced by the clipping! Cheers and clear skies, Matt.
  11. Personally I prefer the first one The second (re-worked) image the stars are oversaturated and bloated and the subtle detail in the original has been lost. Clear skies, Matt.
  12. Hi again Sam, I downloaded your JPEG and fired up PS. First thing to jump out is that you've clipped the black point of the image! That is to say you've made it to dark and wiped out loads of data in the process! So get back to the drawing board Have a look at this quick tutorial don't worry that your background is not perfectly black! around the core of M42 is all the gaseous goodness "it's not supposed to be deepest black" http://www.corius.net/cont/artic/basimpro.html Start over from scratch, combine the RGB without decon within maxim, also do the same for the Lum without decon. When you have your lum and rgb go into photoshop, open both files and stretch them using levels only for now (Ctrl L is the shortcut) Pay attention to the black point and noise levels in the histogram. Stretch the rgb to something that gives you the max detail without blowing the core. If at this point you need to colour balance open the histogram and then press Ctrl B to bring up the colour balance tool and set it to highlights and adjust until all three colour channels are equal. Next the Lum. Stretch it using levels until again you have max detail without burning out the core. To copy this to you RGB as a layer click on the lum..press Ctrl A to select the image, then Ctrl C to copy.The select your RGB image and press Ctrl V this copies the Lum to the RGB as another layer. To align this layer to the RGB select the Lum layer and in the drop box above select "Difference" this will show you any misalignment between the RGB and Lum.If both layers are aligned the image will look uniform if not it will look something like this. Use the transform tool and arrow keys to move it about until it aligns.Then whilst still on the LUM layer from the same drop box as "Difference" choose "Luminosity" This now sets that layer as, you've guessed it luminosity like this. Sorry if you already know all this? The beauty of doing it this way is that you can adjust the sharpness etc of the luminosity and see the results instantly also if it's "Washing out the image" you can then reduce the opacity of the layer to suit. I think a lot of the washing out may be due to your clipping of the black point in the original RGB. It's a steep learning curve I know, I've been at this a couple of years now and I'm just starting to get images I'm really liking (but know with a few more thousand pounds spent I could do better :D ). Personally with your setup I'd be hitting some galaxies! M42 is going to be done to death over the next months...every next post will be an M42..dare to be different lol! But as a starting point to hone your skills you are onto a cracking start matey! Have another go mate and see what you can come up with. If you like you can post an unstretched stack here as a jpeg and I can have a go myself! Cheers matey, Clear skies, Matt.
  13. I agree with Swag here, I have an HEQ5, though a great mount for the price the payload is substantially less than the NEQ6. If you can afford the NEQ6 go for it as it future proofs what you may do if you decide to change/add extra scopes etc. You could start off with the HEQ5 and the 200P and a DSLR but then you may want to add a CCD with filter wheel,a guide scope and then maybe a wide field APO. An Neq6 would let you do this,the HEQ5 would not! Also look here for second hand gear but make sure if you can't pick the item up you always pay with paypal (not gift as you'll lose buyer protection) and it's always good to check how much stuff they have sold before. http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php Cheers Matt.
  14. Hi Sam, I'm not able to view your images at the moment for some reason though I'm at work and it could be the poor internet connection. First thing first, your mount. You have over £3000 worth of kit sat on it....with a weight of about 11kg and it's probably at it's max for imaging (some would say over) and that in my opinion wold be with a guiding system.You are wasting what could be achieved with the CCD scope setup you have by not guiding so I'd upgrade the mount as soon as you can (Neq6 minimum). I think an earth worm burrowing under the mount would be sufficient to give odd shaped stars as at that capacity it's going to be very susceptible to any vibrations/wind. If you are LRGB imaging I wouldn't bother using decon on the colour and although maxim is great for stacking and calibrating images I don't use it for processing stick with Photoshop. I'd stack and calibrate the images within Maxim, then you can either combine the 3 colour channels in maxim save and stretch in PS or stretch each individual within PS, save them and combine them again within Maxim. Luminosity again stack calibrate within Maxim, export to PS process as you see fit, add as a layer to the RGB image and then set that layer property luminosity and adjust the opacity as you see fit giving you more control over how it is applied. (This is how I would process it though it doesn't mean it's right ) Vignetting is due to the chip size and the 1.25" filters though it may help if you increase the ADU of your flats to a min of 26666 up to 33333 (40-50% of you max adu for that CCD) That may help in reducing it in the final image (again I cant see the image to see if any vignetting is present?) That's all I can suggest for now without having a look at the images I'm afraid? Clear skies, Matt.
  15. As already been mentioned by Olly looks like a gearing problem, meshing or otherwise I've had this myself before but that was due to a cable snagging so rule that out first ? are your goto's ok? sometimes at certain angles if your gearing is not meshed properly it can cause binding? Do you hear any clicking from the mount at that angle? as if a gear is jumping? When the mount is in the home position with the clutches locked hold the scope and give it a wiggle and see if there's any play in either of the axis? Clear skies, Matt.
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