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Everything posted by Mognet

  1. It seemed sturdy enough when I tried flexing it by hand. Couldn't feel it moving. I doubt I'll need it to hold anything much over a kilo, so should be fine
  2. After a quick bit of Googling, it seems that not all Gorilla Pod mounting plates are the same. The bracket I've created fits one of these https://joby.com/gorillapod-tripods/bubble-level-clip-for-slr-and-ballhead-for-slr-zoom
  3. I hadn't got as far as buying a camera bracket for my widefield astrophotography attempts so I was using a Gorilla Pod wrapped round a block of wood in my SynScan mount. It seemed to work ok for 30 second exposures with the 35mm lens, but wasn't proving very stable. So I decided to make my own by repurposing the Gorilla Pod camera mount and printing a proper bracket The basic idea rendered in OpenSCAD looks like this. The spring clip fits through the hole in the bracket body, and in PLA has enough flex in it to close across the top of the slot. It might need a little filing to get through, even though I've made some allowances. Fresh off the printer it came out ok. A bit of warping and the print looks a little rough, but I think I need to adjust the printer belts again and use a heated bed to cure those An almost in action shot. Except it was daytime, and I haven't seen a clear sky at night since printing it The file to generate it is a bit long to add as anything but an attachment. I printed this with a 1.2mm wall and 20% infill, which hopefully should be strong enough Camera Bracket.scad
  4. As it's been cloudy a lot since getting my 3D printer, I thought I'd put it to some use for printing astrophotography related things. One thing I needed was a dew shield to stop my camera lens misting up during sessions, and it should hopefully double up as a light shield for those nights when the neighbours forget to turn the lights off! Not had chance to try it out yet as I only printed it last night I use OpenSCAD for model creation (it's a free download, but look for the latest snapshot as that has all the features), and the code is very simple. If it needs to be adapted to another fit, then just update the radiusOpening value. Canon users will need to check how their lens hoods fit as I don't know if they're the same. radiusOpening = 59 / 2; radiusBottom = radiusOpening + 5; radiusTop = radiusBottom + 12; length = radiusOpening * 2 * 1.5; thickness = 1; $fa=1; $fs=1; // Base difference() { cylinder(r = radiusBottom + thickness, h = 1); cylinder(r = radiusOpening, h = 1); } // Mount rotate_extrude(angle = 60) translate([radiusOpening - 1, 0, 0]) square(1); rotate([0, 0, 180]) rotate_extrude(angle = 60) translate([radiusOpening - 1, 0, 0]) square(1); // Shield difference() { cylinder(r1 = radiusBottom + thickness, r2 = radiusTop + thickness, h = length); cylinder(r1 = radiusBottom, r2 = radiusTop, h = length); } Once printed it should look like this
  5. I've got an older model of the same scope, and for power I use a car jump starter http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/battery-chargers-jump-starters/phaze-4-in-1-jump-starter I was all prepared to make up a lead for it too but it turns out that there is a lead supplied in the box that fits. Hopefully SkyWatcher haven't changed their mount design that much since mine was made and the lead still fits
  6. There could be several causes to the stringy Shredded Wheat effect. First thing to check as it's been assembled from the kit is the tension in the belts. If that's not tight enough it will look like my example photo here where one of the belts wasn't right (both loose belt tension and loose wheel on the stepper motor in this instance) and the slop in one axis caused irregular printing, with the infill (the criss-cross internal strengthening structure) showing through. Next thing to check is the print quality selected for the model. If you've passed an .STL file through a slicer like Cura or Slic3r there will be options for that ranging from extra coarse to extra fine (or similar). I print at fine and leave the speed at the default 40mm/s. I used to have a couple of examples of coarse and draft quality prints, but they fell apart with handling. If it's stringing during travels (where it's not supposed to be laying down filament) then you are probably printing at too high a temperature. This can be adjusted in the slicer programme too. With mine I get stringing at 210C, but when I reduce to 200C most of it has gone. As @jbrazio says, 190C is probably where to aim. The PLA I use has a listed temperature range of 180C to 210C. Can't say anything about bed temperature as mine doesn't have a heated bed. There's further help on https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
  7. At the speed I get round to doing things I might have achieved the first two by this time next year!
  8. Hi Oli, and welcome from another Essex member The North Essex Astronomical Society are running a session on 17th January to help people with their new scopes. They should be able to help you get the best out of your new equipment https://www.northessexastro.co.uk/events/public-meeting-telescope-help-astronomy-qa/ and there are a few other Essex based groups that hold meetings and observing sessions too
  9. I'm planning on getting out to my local dark sky site more, doing more DSLR widefield astrophotography, clearing the garden ready for the intended shedservatory (limited garden space means combining an shed with a roll off roof observatory) and building my own EQ mount for astrophotography As the latter two were also planned for last year I'm also intending to find a cure for procrastination. At some point. When I get round to it
  10. They've hidden it away on their site, but Galvoptics do apparently still do recoating http://www.galvoptics.co.uk/optical-components/telescope-products-andamp-services/telescope-mirror-coating---primary/ No idea of the quality, but there may be a couple of people on SGL who have used them
  11. I tried printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:160391 for my camera as one of my early objects. As I haven't seen a decently clear sky since it hasn't seen any use yet. I have Blender and I've experimented with creating basic 3D objects, but I'm not entirely convinced on using it to create printable models. It is powerful, but seems better suited as a 3D art tool. I've tried a couple of others. OpenSCAD is good if you can wrap your head around programmatic descriptions of objects. FreeCAD is a visual design tool and seems ok, and there are a several online tools, like SketchUp and TinkerCad that can be used for object creation. As for the ABS vs PLA question, go for PLA. My girlfriend has worked with a 3D printing company that uses ABS, and says that it stinks of burning plastic during printing. PLA has a much nicer smell, and (according to Wikipedia) is also more environmentally friendly being plant based, biodegradable and recyclable.
  12. It only has a small print volume, 120x140x130mm but it can be rebuilt for larger volumes apparently
  13. Treated myself to an Imakr Startt 3D printer as a Christmas present to myself. Felt like I was playing with Meccano for the first few hours as it arrives in kit form Doesn't seem too bad for a £99 printer
  14. Looks like the thread title got changed in the move. Confused me after not logging in for a week!
  15. Another former ZX81 owner here. And I remember the RAM pack wobble well! Caught me out a few times before going for the BlueTak solution I started out programming on that, before moving on to a Texas Instruments TI99/4a, a Commodore 64, then an Atari ST520. Some gaming, mostly text adventures as I liked the problem solving, but usually for programming in Basic, Z80 and 6502 assembler, and C. Fast forward a few years and I became a professional programmer in IBM zSeries assembler (OS/360) and Cobol (both with CICS and DB2 for those who know what they are!). These days I'm an automated software tester doing mostly manual testing I still get to dabble in Java sometimes though I'm too young at 50 to have dealt with paper tape and punched cards, but I've worked with people who did. I've dealt with 3.5", 5.25" and 8" floppies, and dot matrix and daisy wheel printers. USB sticks and laser printers are just not the same, nor is having to consider the speed vs size tradeoffs when coding on limited systems.
  16. You're even more covered up than I was for Iceland last week!
  17. Reminds me of the weather in Ireland, which I was warned about with the description "We have two seasons. There's the wet season, when it rains all the time, and the dry season, when it doesn't rain all the time"
  18. I've downloaded the latest version, and the images are now appearing in colour even when looking at a single unprocessed image. I had assumed it was an issue with the source images as some other stacking programs had also displayed them in monochrome. Still waiting for that elusive clear sky so I can get some suitable images to test properly with
  19. ANSVR works for me. Now I just need some decent subs for stacking. The 35mm lens is too wide for plate solving, so I'll try with the 18-55 kit lens at 55mm
  20. Thanks Han I've installed AstroTortilla and PlateSolve2, but it may be that the subs I have taken at longer focal lengths are not of good enough quality. There are clear skies forecast here for tonight, so I will try to get some better ones. I will try solving with ANSVR too. Astrometry.net has an API that might be worth investigating. There are some details at http://nova.astrometry.net/api_help
  21. Thanks. I'll download the new version and see if I've got anything with a longer focal length I can test with. Most of what I have is wide field so far
  22. Sample files sent. Occurs with files converted with PIPP, and another program
  23. Have a look at Stackistry https://github.com/GreatAttractor/stackistry/releases and Fitswork http://www.fitswork.de/software/softw_en.php I've managed to get results out of both. For planet and lunar photography, there's AutoStakkert http://www.astrokraai.nl/software/latest.php
  24. I gave it a quick try after seeing your other post earlier, and I just get an access violation when clicking the stack selected images button. Does it output a log file I can send to you so you can see what's causing it?
  25. Thermals are definitely an essential! I bought today snow boots with a thermal lining as wellies and thick socks are just not good enough in the cold and damp. Hoping the are up to my Iceland trip too
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