Mognet

I gave mine a quick check a week ago. Good timing as this week I've been printing frames for protective visors https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/

I found this 3D printed astro tracker, so I might be working on that soon. It's similar to something I was thinking of creating myself https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/346858-3d-printed-tracker/

There isn't a specific board or thread, but we've been posting things as we've made them, usually in the DIY Astronomer board here https://stargazerslounge.com/forum/18-diy-astronomer/ Is there something in particular that you wanted to print? It's possible that someone may already know of a good printable for a particular project, or you could design your own thing

My thoughts are the same as JamesF. I suspect there's not enough compression in the springs to hold the nuts tight enough. Adding some washers, or printing some, will help reduce the space there. Tightening the nuts as Chriske suggests is an option if the limit switch height is adjustable. I've not seen an Ender 3 up close, but looking at the manual online suggests it is possible to move the limit switch carriage. And there is a recommended height too, which isn't easy to read I have a CR10S, and that only needs relevelling if I move it Roller adjustment is something that Creality seem to leave out of the instructions. I only found out about it from watching an assembly video on YouTube

I have a 5mm, which I thought was quite good. The local skies don't really allow for anything much more than lunar viewing with it, but I'll happily get a couple more to replace the Skywatcher EPs supplied with my scopes once the we start getting decently clear skies again

That sounds like earthquake lights, which can apparently be spherical. Wikipedia has some information on them https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthquake_light

The Stellarium Labs website has details on the differences between the three versions. The plus version has all known stars, and most known asteroids and comets apparently, along with telescope control The desktop version is still being updated, and is independent of the original developers, and there is a web version now too, which both teams link to.

That does look like a support issue. Try it with supports set to everywhere first. I'm sure that's what my slicers default to and I don't see problems like this With that piece it looks like the supports should be generated between the top and bottom horizontal parts, mostly filling the area with an easily removable section. It's normally possible to check in advance where the slicer is putting supports by switching to the layer view

I've been using the own brand PLA from https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/ Seems nice and consistant so far

I'm assuming that you are using the Creality Slicer. To change the print temperature in there on a temporary basis, select your normal print profile, and then on the menu go to Expert -> Switch to Full Settings. Answer Yes for the copy, and then find printing temperature on the left hand side. The link Gina provided said 220 to 240 for PLA+, and usually the box its supplied in will give a guide temperature too I can see that Creality Slicer is based on Cura, or at least uses Cura Engine, but I can't currently see a way of creating a material profile for PLA+ in it instead of changing that setting every time. I assume there is a way, so I might look into it later. I'm just using a standard PLA at the moment so haven't had to tinker with the settings much

If it's this spectrograph on Thingiverse, then it should be fine. The instructions say to print it with 50-80% infill, which should make it fairly tough I bought my CR10S from Technology Outlet, and the have the Ender 3 Pro in stock at the moment

PLA does degrade, but not easily. There's a bit about it on Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid (I'll add that chemistry is not my strong point, so I don't understand much of it) Angus of Maker's Muse has a more practical demonstration https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqNfa_zExRU I have seen some a couple of things about mechanical strength of PLA prints, but I can't remember where now

From the YouTube reviews I've seen, it looks like the Ender 3 is not just a good and inexpensive starter machine, it will be good for the average user for a number of years I went for the larger print size of the Creality CR-10 instead of the Ender 3. Assembly isn't difficult and is quoted as being around ten minutes. As one of my cats decided she wanted to "help", it was a lot longer for me! I watched a YouTube video as an assembly guide, which gave some setup and adjustment information that the supplied booklet didn't. This is the first print, at 0.20mm and without changing any other settings. I had a little issue with adhesion on the glass bed to start with, but solved it with a light covering from a glue stick

A mere £325! But as an added extra, it can fit mugs up to 300x300x400mm in size. Whether the bed can take that weight is a different matter

My giving up smoking present to myself, a Creality CR-10S. Just trying to get a successful first print out of it now

For observing, and really cold weather, I've been wearing thermal combats with thermal tights on underneath. They did quite well in Iceland a couple of years ago. They're just pull on and go, and have plenty of pockets. Most of my family are bikers, and several of them wear the protective padded jeans instead of leathers. They look like regular jeans but a bit thicker. I don't know if they have insulating properties, but might be worth investigating too

I skipped to the last twenty minutes. The gas mask and gloves combined with the mention of smells have put me off resin printing. Seems like there is a lot of extra work, so maybe good for specialist things, and with a tailored environment

Astroboot have several handsets for sale at the moment, including a V4

The tyre profile looked rather flat to me. That might explain why the bike was a bit wobbly even on gentle corners

Looks like @Ginahas competition for the Concorde printer. The BigRep One is an FFF/FDM printer with a build volume of a cubic metre. No mention of pricing. Motorbike printing is optional though! https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/technology-46894072/nera-the-3d-printed-electric-motorbike

For the modern languages I use (Java, Scala and Gherkin) an IDE is great, and I wouldn't be without one even if I did spend a large number of years writing in plain text editors. OpenSCad is like taking a step back to those days, but fortunately the language is simple enough that a text editor is fine. Code-wise it's a bit like writing in C

I'll add a vote for TinkerCad as it's really easy to use for basic designs. Blender is very good, and is worth spending some time learning if you want to create more complex designs. Both are visual tools, so you can see how it looks as you work. I'm not sure I would recommend OpenSCad to start with even though I use it. It's great for parametric designs and anything that needs calculations, but it requires a certain mindset. The language is easy enough, it's thinking in design terms and then translating it into code that causes some people problems. If you do want to try it, grab the latest development snapshot rather than the stable version as it has all the documented features.

One cup of coffee later...embossed text in OpenSCad $fn=1; difference() { // Create block translate([-50, -5, -10]) cube([100, 10, 10]); // Subtract text translate([0, 0, -2]) linear_extrude(height=2, center=false) text(text="Stargazer's Lounge", size=5, font="Courier New:style=Bold", halign="center", valign="center"); }

Print in place hinges and joints are very handy. Some of my early design experiments used them It looks like 3D text should be possible. Looking at the cheat sheet and manual I think it would be via a linear extrude of 2D text. I've yet to try it though. Maybe a job for later today

If you are not in a rush, then keep an eye on the second hand market, both on here and Astro Buy Sell. I bought my 127 mak with a SynScan alt-az mount for £250 that way