JOC

I guess it provides a pointer, but is the average observer going to know whether it is correct or not. Will it become the case that because a 'black box' has generated the answer it has to be correct?

Wow! aren't there a lot of them? I'm not sure I agree with that sort of impact. Is there not an international body that can control what gets lobbed into space?

Having owned an 8" I was surprised when I finally realised that it isn't really the size of the scope mirror that affects the overall magnification you can achieve (OK it helps a bit, you cn push a bit more megnification, but to get close to stuff particularly in the UK with x250 is about it most scopes/EP's will get there). What a bigger scope gets you is more light - OK if you are chasing feint fuzzies really seriously with pristine dark skies, blacked out set-ups, hours spent adapting eyes etc., but if all you want it bigger you just need a different EP in what you have and if you are at around x250 on a good night that's about it. I was amazed one night when I tried saturn in my tiny portable Vixen 80S on Saturn and got as good a view as I have ever had in my 8" Dob. It was then I realised that pure magnification was, for my practical use, entirely separate to light gathering ability, because I wasn't into 'faint fuzzies'. Thus, if you think that the upgrade will give you more effective magnification you might be disappointed. You will get a little more light, obviously, but I hugely doubt you will see much benefit.

How about putting as much as you can into IP66 waterproof boxes like you can get for outdoor lighting displays - not hugely costly. Plastic bags taped over and around kit might help. Also, you could consider layers of cling film over surfaces and, provided you don't drop bits through making them slick, a light smearing of vaseline or spray of PTFE on some surfaces probably won't hurt - try somewhere inconspicuous first. You could also stick a pop up 'toilet tent' over it all when not in use with a dehumidifying box inside it too - that would just quickly lift off when you wanted to use it

Well, technically you aren't. You have amazon store credit - I imagine technically you can spend that on whatever you like. If you can add 75% to the pot that alone might be a good chunk of what is needed to buy what you need from a proper telescope retailer. Then you can put the credit towards, eyepieces, accessories, camera lenses or even just your next grocery order - save on your cash spent at Tesco for your next two shopping trips and spend your Amazon credit instead - then you can put the savings towards a scope from a better retailer 😄

I own an 8" Dob. I already find it's size and set-up time is a barrier to using it and I only have to cart it 10 metre' outside my back door where it stands behind. Unless you can keep a 10" accessible and can stand moving it then for sheer practicality an 8" might be easier. FWIW I get lovely views through the 8" and unless you really want to go and chase those faint wisps of DSO's where the light is everything and you are into blacking out the works, living somewhere truly dark, spending hours dark adapting your eyes and really taking it seriously then the 10" might not give you any huge advantage over the 8". After all there is very little difference in effective magnification in terms of what works in the UK anyway. So I guess it's down to what you want, but you might find an 8" is enough and considerably easier to shift around. Why not go and look at both and experiment with lifting the various bits of them before you buy?

I also got one for my automated 200P dobsonian and it is hassle free, provided you have sufficient IT setup and range to run it through. Drive the scope very easily and far easier than the Skywatcher provided handset. I would recommend one, but obviously everyone's situation varies. NB. I also haven't viewed for a while, so my comments are based on the last time I did use it.

A.) StarTravel 120 on planets B.) SkyMax 127 on DSO In fairness to those answering, Although I know nothing about either scope, I suspect you can't compare apples with pears. A and B are two different criteria that maybe shouldn't be sitting next to each other in a comparison. I sense from what you put that the Startravel should perform better on planets and and skymax on DSO's so if you were buying from new I guess you buy the telescope that works best for the stuff in the sky that interests you the most - you purchased the startravel so you obviously fancied you hand with planets, but it doesn't mean you can't view anything else with it. As @NGC 1502 says though whatever you have purchased it should give you at least a fair view of both categories of sky bits. So perhaps you need to get out there and use it. Once you realise that you can only view the sky in the UK for about 10% if the year due to cloud cover and then you freeze your rocks off whilst you do it, you might regret buying a scope at all!! Or buy a solar safe setup and view the sun when it's warm outside then you might change your kit completely. Besides which everyone knows the answer to what scope should I buy is 'an 8" Skywatcher Dobsonian 200P" 😉 Just get out there and enjoy using what you have!!

This is basically what I prefer and do too. I have an 8” Dob and have tried coloured filters on Jupiter and cannot see any benefit I found the same looking at Jupiter with my 8" Dob. Mind you I don't mind looking at bright objects like the moon at full brightness either. I have comfortably seen the bands on jupiter with the 8" Dob I own. I've yet to see the GRS - I think I've just been unlucky that on the odd occasions I go viewing it hasn't been round 'this side'. FWIW Although I do own some filters I do find them a PITA to use. I have got a filter wheel - which if placed under the EP makes them easier to slip in and out - an empty hole is always useful for the unfiltered view. However, I find too much weight on the scope affects its balance and performance and 9 times out of 10 I just use a plain EP for the sheer convenience of use.

So what is the upshot here - If clear I was going to set-up to have a look between 5pm and 6pm will I be able to see a double shadow transit - if not I won't bother 'cos it will be cold.

I've been chasing a view of our eucalyptus tree and moon that I've seen before. The cloudy sky played ball when I looked out just now and snapped with the mobile.

I suppose the way to make it easier is to take a picture of the moon before it gets fully dark - at least you can get a little more definition around the edge of the moon, though still no detail within it. The sky here was on its way to getting fairly dark, but wasn't fully there and so you could lengthen the exposure/open the aperture/up the ISO etc and get the trees in shot without the moon being quite so blown out.

I can't crack getting everything in focus and correctly exposed, however I like abstract images and have found that some pleasing effects are possible with this subject.

I took this with my mobile phone tonight, just in the spirit of taking part. I think it qualifies as the moon is in it along with my garden trees

In the UK 200P 8" dob. isn't happy at much above 200-250x magnification - that's about a 5mm-4mm (on a really good night). That's a 10mm x 2 if you want a Barlow. I have one, but don't use it. It's a lot of faffing around to constantly put it in and take it out. Most 200P come with serviceable 10mm and 25mm EP's start with those and make sure that you can see things with them first. Then if you want closer, sport £40 on some BST EP's say an 8mm and a 5mm and you might find you don't need anything else. Given hindsight I certainly wouldn't go out and buy a Barlow when you can get a perfectly serviceable EP often for <£50 like the BST's

I don't know, all that trouble to install a dome and the poor telescope is still sitting outside!

I'd hardly describe some <£250 scopes as 'hobby killers'. I am sure that these get a really good write up on SGL normally and you'd still have cash for a BST starguider in a sale on top of the 'probably functional' EP's that no doubt come with the scope https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes/skywatcher-heritage-130p-flextube.html

We looked out around 9pm it was nice and clear - the firework display in town had gone really well, but no aurora here.

Ohh....lovely, you got to see it, I'm so pleased for you.

Drones set up to block track the disc at a suitable height?

This another thread in what is a popular subject on SGL. I am a spectacle wearer I have a respectably strong prescription and a touch of prism in my lenses. There is an awful lot of mathematical stuff written about what people should and shouldn't be able to see through EP wise both from the perspective of wearing your specs at the EP if you need to wear them normally, not wearing specs at the EP if you normally need to wear them and even similar conversations from people that don't normally wear glasses yet still struggle to see through some EP's. Eye relief def. plays a part, but at the end of the day everyone is different and what works for one person may for any number of reasons not work for another. I am def. neither a regular telescope user nor any form of expert in the matter, but I have a mixed box of EP's including some good branded ones and would like to offer up my common sense based observations on the basis of my own experience. 1. The only EP I've ever completely failed with is a 10 or 11mm Televue Plossl which had eye relief of about 7-8mm I bought that second hand and resold it at no loss. On that basis maybe things with longer eye relief are easier to use overall whether you wear specs or not and I think from what I read that seems true. 2. Just because an EP works for someone it might not work for you. Try buying EP's second hand, try them and resell what doesn't work for you. Once they have reached second-hand price they seem to change hands at around that mark ad infinitum within a reasonable time period. You can read threads like this all day, but even if you buy something that someone recommends it might not work. 3. Don't assume that because you have to wear specs day to day, that you need to wear them at the telescope - I often remove mine and just adjust for focus with the telescope. FWIW I also find that if I am snorkelling I don't need my specs on to see enough with - looking through the water makes a huge difference. There are def. some things that you might find you can take specs off for. A bit like removing them to thread a needle. Some prescriptions are designed for short and some for long distances, not to mention varifocals - it therefore stands to reason, that not all specs might lend themselves to use at the EP - try taking them off and see how you get on. 4. I personally find I get on best with the 'hover above the EP' approach - I am no big fan of the rubber EP guards and mostly fold them down whether I have my specs on or not. I guess if you are a DSO nut then perhaps the light exclusion from the eye cups is useful, but I am not that dedicated. FWIW a couple of cheap bar stools one set higher and one set low is a useful investment to sit on and helps you stay still when 'hovering'. Another advantage to hovering is you are almost automatically compensating for a little bit of the focus esp. if you don't have your specs on. However, just because it works for me it might not work for you. Get a couple of second-hand EP's and get out there. If they work for you in some way hang onto them - if they don't sell them on and have another bash.

You might even be able to take some pictures of the moon against earth bound objects and enter the new SGL competition. I don't often enter the competition, but I have taken some nice pics of the moon like that and am tempted. Taking more standard photos won't tie you up for hours in the cold, and will still give you something with an attractive result.

The OP seems solved, but FWIW I was going to suggest a decent tripod, ordinary camera and cable release and try a different sort of photography, maybe some time-lapse or something completely different to ring the changes.

Flame tests are a case in point. I have often recently asked students if they are ever told why they do them (one of the first lab practicals students ever do at school). They are not told that it demonstrates the fundamental theory of why commerical instruments in say ecological laboratories work (which is all that might need to say to capture a students attention), nor do they link it back to electron orbital theory when that is studied. All those links I had to make for myself, and from what I hear when I ask students still aren't told. I take great delight in filling in the blanks.

I believe science on the curriculum would be far more interesting for students to study if only the teachers would include the 'why' when they teach something. The numbers of practical science experiments I carried out at secondary school without ever understanding 'why' we had done it, until 10+ years later it dawned on me out in 'industry' why that particular experiment had been important, were many and would surely have added to my enjoyment and perhaps even have captured the imagination of more students. It is a hole that I really try to fill when I go into schools as a STEM ambassador.