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About ebeygin

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  1. That's what I'm saying :))) just get the right number for your length, test it, make sure it not hot, but just slightly warm, and off you go :)) Thanks!
  2. Hey guys, I've been reading instructions on how to build a resistor or nichrome dew heater. What I got from all the reading was, you make some resistance, using resistors or nichrome, attach it to controller to vary current, and attach that to 12V. My question is, why is there so much info on current draw, ohms, and watts, if in essence, all you're trying to do, is make a strap that is warm to the touch... any commercial dew heater is never hot, but just barely warm. If that's the case, why not then just adjust you resistors or nichrome length to the point until your strap becomes just warm at max current.. shouldn't this be good enough? The reason I'm asking, is I'm a bit confused with all these numbers, especially when everyone is suggesting different ones :))) Thanks!
  3. Felt like sharing also: 2 days ago was my first time astroimaging, and I shot this using my ST80 and an unguided AVX. Just as a test. 1 min exposure, single raw image, no stacking, inner toronto light pollution. f5 really helped a lot :))
  4. Thanks! Greatly appreciated!!! I'll check and see if I have the marks too.
  5. happy-cat: on a 20mm (i don't have 25mm), out of focus looks like the typical circle pattern. The dot is probably 5% of center.. barely off center that is... dim stars focused look DEAD ON pin point dots Ben the Ignorant: the mods you did to your refractors are amazing. I don't think I will dare to drill into them at this point. I literally got into this hobby a month ago, so everything is still very new to me. And for the shimming idea, that I might try! and as you guys pointed out, maybe it took some time for the lens to free up. In the beginning of the thread, I got suggestions to return (based on my first horrible start test), but after my latest test, I'm considering to keep it for now. I really appreciate your input. It really does help to hear from the pros. :))
  6. The "line" i saw using my eyes...but i always thought that even at high magnifications, stars should be pin point.. Unless atmosphere can have THIS type of an effect
  7. Happy-kat, i'm not really worried about the CA. I'm concerned that my ST80 is not collimated. Innitially I had this: The optics turn out to be pinched, I loosened the the cap on the lense, and after, I got stars at 174x looking like this: But yesterday, they were more like this: And so I decided to image, and the images are looking pretty good. So that is why I don't understand, what's happening. I'm a real amateur, my eyes aren't trained for this kind of stuff. And I don't want to send in a scope that really isn't that bad, and get something even worse :))
  8. Thanks Dave. Yes, I see a lot of CA too. i'm just confused since a few days ago, at 174x, I had a terrible star pattern, and was worried the scope was terribly collimated. I loosened the lens cap a bit, and that made it better, but I still had a LINE instead of a point. Yesterday, my stars were more point like, and I'm trying to figure out if I'm just picky, or I have a problem.
  9. So now I don't know. Last night, I did a check at high magnification, and now the stars looked a lot more pin like.. and because I'm such an amateur, I have no clue any more... Here are some images of M13, Ring Nebula, and Albireo. Can you please let me know if my ST80 is properly collimated? Thanks!
  10. Hello, A lot of people use the ST80 as their guide scope, or a wide field grab-and-go. I recently purchased one, and after doing star tests at extremely high magnifications, trying to determine, if I'm super picky, or my scope has a flaw in it. With 20mm/9mm (20 - 44x), the bright stars look pretty good, although I wouldn't say they are 100% pinpoint (maybe that's just chromatic abbr). With 2.3mm (176x), bright stars initially had a comet diffraction pattern like this: I corrected that by unscrewing the lens cap, and tapping on the sides of the tube while slowly tightening the cap back. This fixed the comet issue, but now, the stars look like this: If I tighten the cap a bit, I get the comet pattern back. How does this compare with your scopes? I can't get a pin point star at high mag. Am I really picky, since this is a chromatic $100 scope (although people praise it for its high quality) Should this type of scope display perfect pin point stars when using high mag eyepieces? I really don't want to waste time sending this back, if it ends up me being picky, and I get back the same or worse optics. Thanks!
  11. So I adjusted the lens by unscrewing, tapping, and screwing back. Noticeable difference, but stars are still not pin point. Basically, the Comet pattern is no longer there, but now the star is a thick short line, not a dot. If I screw the cap tighter, I get the comet pattern back. So I know part of the problem was pinched optics, even though a comet looking star is not usually from pinched optics. Are my troubles because I'm at 175x?? Do any of you guys get pin point stars at high mag on the ST80?? Thanks!
  12. Yes, 175x is a lot..and I only used it to test the collimation. Thats why Im confused if Im just too picky. On lower magnifation its not as noticeable. But because I plan to practice imaging with it, i want as accurate a collimation as possible. Thanks for the shimmijg hint..if I turns out to be that, i wont bother and just send it in. Thanks.
  13. hmm, ok thanks.. Its just I saw a few people collimate these by just tapping the tube to readjust the lenses. If people always mod these, and take them apart, why can't I do that to collimate the lenses?
  14. Hey guysIm really struggling with an issue. Recently purchased an Orion ST80. At 20x to 44x using stock 20mm/9mm eyepieces stars look pretty good. But if I test it at 175x using 2.3mm eyepiece and point to bright star I get the pattern like in the images below.Will unscrewing the ring and tapping on the side of the tube resettle the lenses? Or is this an alignment/collimation issue that isnt fixed easily? Defocused, the center circle isn't too off the centre..but focused in, it looks like a cone. Really annoying. If I send this back, no guarantees that the next one will be any better. Or is this typical for type of scopeThanks in advance!
  15. Hey guys, First post here. I received my AVX mount 2 days ago, and on my second night I finally got the Go-To and tracking right. First night the controller didn't ask my for location info, and I didn't input location by overriding the preset. I was doing some visual observing, and then decided to photograph Alberio. For that I had to remove my eyepiece and attach my camera. And because the mount is ALWAYS tracking (what ever it is pointed at), the motors are running, and I was worried to put even slight pressure on the tube while tightening the t-adapter. Is it ok to put slight pressure on the telescope to reconfigure it, while the mount is turned on? I would prefer to keep the mount turned on, since every time I turn it off, I have to input the date and time over again. And maybe there is a way to disable tracking? I also noticed that when the clutches are released, its still hard to balance, because it doesn't swing freely. How do you guys do precise balancing with the AVX? Thanks in advance!
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