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About Tuomo

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    Star Forming

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  1. They are if you lazor is cheap and/or not calibrated. I learned this hard way by buying cheap ebay lazor. When you rotate your collimator in focuser, does the red dot stay in one place? If not, there is problem with laser and/or focuser.
  2. You mean this? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/lynx-astro-ftdi-eqdir-usb-adapter-for-sky-watcher-eq6-or-neq6-syntrek-pro-mounts.html I think you need to install EQMOD for your PC to make sure your mount talks with your PC properly.
  3. BTW, I think your Polemaster USB port should point to the left side of the scope..... "Retreat the thumb screw and insert the electronic polar scope. Align the USB port to the left side, as shown in the photo. This will ensure that the image will be moved by altitude and azimuth adjustment accordingly. Tighten the thumb screw to lock the polar scope in place."
  4. Sometimes I still use old white T-shirt and point scope to blue sky. It gives surprisingly good results. Make sure you are not pointing near sun as it could give you bad flat.
  5. Many astrophotographer uses laptop/ipad screen to make flats. To me theres nothing wrong with this. I use Huion A4-sized drawboard. Maybe use white old t-shirt and cover up the scope to make sure sensor is evenly illuminated.
  6. Yea, but with DSOs I meant nebulaes and other faint fuzzies where you would need 3-5 minutes of exposure. To me it seems like you are slipping towards the dark side of astrophotography. About 2 years and your 300p is gathering dust while your 130pds is imaging Andromeda with ASI 1600mm-c.
  7. I have 12" Orion dobsonian. I have used DSLR with it and to be honest, it is only good with moon and sun (with reflective solar filter).. I mean, you cant image DSOs, since you need more than few seconds of exposure. Secondly planets are okish, but they take so little space from your sensor so they turn out to be quite small...... This one is taken with 12" + 500D. Its good, but nothing too special. Owh and you need to elevate your primary mirror quite a lot to achieve focus. With my 12" it is somewhere around 7cm / 3" IMO, not worth it, since you might need to lower it later for visual astronomy....dont even start with the collimation.......collimation...oh, the pain! I dont know. Astrophotography is SO different from visial astronomy. In visual aperture is the king. In astrophotography mount is one of the most important part right after small and good quality scope. Here are the parts you would need: First you fit T-ring to camera https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings.html Then you use 1.25" or 2" adapter to fit everything to scope. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/flo-2-inch-t-mount-camera-adapter.html
  8. Just get QHY Polemaster. One of the best astroitem there is......
  9. I must be truthful here: I like how you managed to capture M31, data is there, but the colours are not to my liking. Too acid/trippy.
  10. I just used 180 bias frames. No darks, just dithering.
  11. Hi! Its been quite long since I last posted something here at the SGL. I still keep reading this site, but since I can do AP on my own for most of the time I have not felt the urge to ask anything....not until now... So, I managed to get myself monomodded D5100. Modded by Herra Kuulapää. Camera is GREAT and I have been able to do some serious AP with it.. You can check my images at "astrovalokuvaus" in instagram. This is NOT about my IG site. This is about flats basicly ruining my image. I think its easier to show some pictures: This is my Master Flat histogram. It does seem to be quite ok? And here is the Master flat itself. Pretty even, SOME darkening towards the edges. One part of the Soul nebula, with flats. You can CLEARLY notice ring-shape around the nebula. Same image, without flats. Difference is huge! Second part of the soul.....with flats. and without..... Last image is mosaic with flats....One could not process this.... Images above are "auto developed" images from Startools. It makes everything stand out for gradient and vignetting removal. D5100 is modded with dark current mod. It shifts histogram bit to the right and leaves room for true black background and noise removal........I guess. First I turn my Nikon RAW-files in to monochrome DNG-files and crop remains of sensor CFA by using Monochrome2DNG. Then I open every file in Photoshop and save everything to TIFF without compression. I do this, because DSS does not seem to understand cropped DNG files. It still shows CFA remains and thinks is not cropped. (something to do with preview image I think.....) After Photoshop I stack everything with DSS and start editing in Startools..... I take my flats using Huion A4 sized LED pad with t-shirt over my scope. I cant see anything wrong with my way of taking flats. This mosaic was my first and I made few mistakes. First one is OFC framing. Its horrible. Next time I will frame my image better. There are some Stacking artefacts too....I never managed to process this with flats. I had to do everything without flats and final result is quite good. Have you had anything like that above? Image is about 14h of exposure. Each section somewhere around 7h. Single exposure was 900s. Tracking is not perfect, but quite something for Belt modded EQ5 (AstroEQ )
  12. Yea, this might be big problem in the near future. Still, we need to make sure we understand, that those dots represent locations of the debris, not the size of it......so IF we would put everything in scale everything would look HUGELY different.
  13. Then again, if you have removed everything in front of the filter you will need IR/UV filter.
  14. 1) No software can turn colour camera in to mono camera. Most likely it is just turning colours to grayscale, or something. I could write long wall of text about the differences between mono and colour camera, but I wont do it. Dont have enough knowledge or time. Long story short: https://www.atik-cameras.com/news/mono-colour/ Ps. Mono beats colour camera every time, even in time.
  15. Wha, what? Colour balance is not the only thing you fight against, when you shoot at light polluted regions. When you use LP filters, you can have longer exposures without LP washing out your image.
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