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  1. I shot this over two nights as the cool front rolled into my home town this week. I managed to capture around 16 hours on this subject. I actually wanted more, but the third night sky wasn't cooperating with high altitude clouds that kept interrupting my images, so I tossed the whole night. I processed this as a standard SHO palette, but processed and incorporated the stars separately using a synthetic RGB mixture of HA, SII*.5+OIII*.5, OIII respectively into RGB channels. Only very slight tweaks are needed with saturation and a + b CIE Component. One day I'll take the time to write this up somewhere, but it has become my preferred method of adding RGB stars without actually going through the time required to shoot them. In my light polluted skies, you need more than half an hour into RGB to get decent color, so I opt to use this instead. I think the color turned out especially nice in this one. Astrobin link: https://www.astrobin.com/omxnk5/ SkyWatcher Esprit 100 ZWO ASI294MM-Pro Rainbow Astro RST-135E Astrodon 5nm filters
  2. I'll second Planetary System Stacker. The developer has had direct feedback from Emil who works on Autostakkert, and the algorithms are very close now, there is little to no discernible difference to the same processing done in both applications. And I believe in the latest versions of PSS wavelet processing has been added which you need Registax on PC to do. So now it can all be done in a single application.
  3. This little scope has been a lot of fun to image with. This image was 18 total hours from bortle 7/8 skies. ASI1600MM-Pro, Astrodon 5nm filters, and a Celestron AVX mount were used. I processed this in the SHO palette. I processed the stars separately in the HSO palette because the colors more closely map to RGB, then using StarNet and PixelMath, added them into the final image. Cheers! Andrew
  4. Yeah, I really think the performance of this scope is underrated. I've shot some great images of Jupiter and the red spot, which I wasn't so sure you could resolve well with a 5" but it did.
  5. Shot this with my Celestron C5 Spotting Scope. Best 15% of 3500 frames using a ZWO ASI462MC camera. Autostakkert, with drizzle 1.5x and wavelets processing in Registax 6. Wavelets processing is some serious magic.
  6. One note about your comment on flats. Turn on your DSLR histogram function if it has one. This will display a histogram like I show above in Photoshop on the back of your camera after each capture. Make sure the histogram (the hump of light) is bright enough that it falls squarely between the left and right sides of the histogram frame without being cut off on the left or right side. Alternatively, you can load your flat into Photoshop, and look at the histogram there to see the same thing.
  7. Lots of good detail! Color balance is definitely off. So, good that you could see that. I took the liberty (hopefully you don't mind) of pulling this image into Photoshop and looking at your individual color channels. As you can see in the histogram, there are different amounts of Red Green and Blue, and they don't align. Aligning the channels using the levels tool creates a neutral black. This brings the colors of the galaxy back in line, closer to where it should be. Depending on the program you use to process you should be able to achieve better color correction with the built in tools. Here's your current image with the unaligned color channels. Best shown in the top histogram where you can see red, green, and blue not overlapping. Here's a version where I simply aligned each channels histogram using the levels tool in Photoshop. Now you have a neutral black, and galaxy colors appear more correct. In any image processing program from here, you would isolate the galaxy with a mask, so that you can modify it, without changing the neutrality of the black background. You would then enhance the color of the galaxy through saturation and other color correction measures to get it to a more expected result. Hope that helps.
  8. I’ve been imaging with my EdgeHD 11”. I have the low profile Edge Moonlite focuser. This allows you to lock down your primary mirror, eliminating mirror flop, and use an OAG for guiding. You’ll need an extremely sensitive guide camera, as you’ll often have only very dim guide stars. It’s not always the case, but a lot of galaxy targets that are not in the milky way will have less stars to guide on.
  9. I've never owned an EQ6-R, but did have a CGX, and used it with my Edge HD 11. It can certainly handle the weight. My rig ran around 35 lbs. The focal length is the killer, as these mounts are cheaply made. I consider that I got a pretty decent CGX. and I guided the EdgeHD 11 reduced with the .7x reducer to around 1960mm. My guiding was sub arc second often .4-.8. But it was always worse in RA. Typical guiding would be .4 DEC RMS and .8 RA RMS. At this focal length, you could see the stars were a little oval. If you were running it with a hyper star, I doubt you would see the oval stars. They would look round. You could probably never reliably run the Edge 11 at native focal length (2800mm) with either of these mounts, as all imperfections of the mount would show in your images. Wind gusts would move the mount...dragging cables move the mount. so keep that in mind. You need a tidy setup, well balanced, with nothing to interfere at longer focal lengths. Hopefully that helps with your decision.
  10. Thanks for the kind comments. I don't like to overcook the image, so a light processing will do.
  11. My M31. Shot over 3 nights. Only 11 total hours. LRGB only with Astrodon filters, ZWO ASI1600MM-C camera, and the WO Redcat.
  12. If you send them an email telling them you have a RedCat, they’ll email you back a word doc showing their camera lens focus system. (It’s not on their website.) That’s essentially what it is. It comes with the focus motor, belt, and mounting bracket. I did have to change the dovetail to the 11” ADM vixen dovetail with adjustable mounting holes. This allowed me to align the belt with the focus barrel. Also, focus tension is very tight, and initially the belt slipped when reversing direction. The RedCat has a focus tension adjuster at the front of the focus barrel that needs to be loosened.
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