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About sgazer

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  1. it's a strange phobia as there is zero chance of a star (or planet) hitting us. I usually think of phobias as being afraid of something that has the potential of happening and being unpleasant or dangerous (eg. spiders, heights, people, etc). I don't know if it helps to know that none of the stars or planets you can see will ever hit us (at least for the next billion years or so). And if they did, it would be over so quick, nobody would notice.
  2. I know, it's like telling my missus "did you plug it in" when something doesnt work, it goes straight over her head!
  3. I'm not clever enough to make stuff up, which is why I'll be forever stuck as an engineer and not an engineering manager.
  4. I'm glad you mentioned that, because we were having a bbq last night (as you do in Oz) and it was a full moon. Later I looked up and it was a tiny crescent which I thought was weird, but unfortunately I'd had a bit too much wine to think about it doh! It was beautiful though.
  5. as you've found, it's not so much magnification, but field of view. Also try ccdcalc, it will tell you your field of view with various scopes/lenses and cameras and also overlay DSO images to you can get an idea of scale. 1.25" tubes are ok until you get really wide angle eyepieces and large camera sensors like your DSLR. You'll get some vignetting (darkness) around the edges and corners of the image, but no effect on the light at the centre. You really need 2" to connect your DSLR. Most people use what's called prime focus. Connect your DSLR directly to the scope with a DSLR to 2" tube adapte
  6. If they're orange, use a light pollution filter, if they're white, you have to block them out, with a large sheet hung up for example
  7. Belper, nice town, use to live there about 15 years ago. Easy mistake to make with the film!
  8. I don't think you'd be wasting much money as you have a dslr already. Not all ccd are better, you have to get a good one and not everyone moves to ccd. Is it worth bypassing something you already have to blow 1000quid+ on something that may or may not work out? The actual imaging device is a small part of the puzzle. Setting up the mount, aligning, tracking, guiding, image processing are all a big part of it too and will apply no matter what the camera. Moving from dslr to ccd is expensive (for a good one), then there are always better ccds for a bit (a lot) more money!
  9. nice image, and lots of nice detail pulled out of the original. It's a target I'm waiting to do myself, also with a 85mm lens, when there's a clear night with no full moon. Nice to see another Victorian, I'm in the Western suburbs of Melbourne. I expect your light pollution is a bit less out there. Lovely area, I often go up to the Lerderderg forest.
  10. Very good, especially in the southern hemisphere with no Polaris!
  11. One way I just thought of looking at it in defense of one shot colour cameras, eg dslr, if one takes a daylight photo with certain settings that looks to me like the real thing (colour etc), then once pointed at the sky, with the same settings it should also capture what I'd see if my eyes were sensitive enough.
  12. If found using drift alignment works well as I'm in the south too. Although now I have celestron starsense, which has an align routine.
  13. Most months for the last 6 years I've gone out on a clear night and wondered who had their flood light on. The full moon definitely clears the clouds on both sides of the planet.
  14. The celestron f6.3 reducer is excellent. However i have the zwo camera and the sensor is tiny, so it gives s very small fov with focal lengths over say 200mm, making dso imaging difficult with an sct. Depending on how much you can spend, I'd recommend a dslr (100 quid+), which would be perfect with the reducer. Despite the specs of the zwo camera, I found it way less sensitive and much more noisy than even a compact camera. I even cooled it to - 5c and still wasn't impressed. Coupled with the small sensor, I gave up using for dsos.
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