spillage

Although startools is not free it has unlimited usage time (but you cannot save). It has more to it than meets the eye. I usually use pixinsight but always run my image through startools first. I too looked as have it installed for NINA. Got a bit lost and as you say its not the easiest to understand and I struggled to find any helpful info/videos.

Sounds like a possible ascom thing or a usb issue. Have you made sure it is all up to date. I had this a while ago in sgpro then it just stopped happening. I is the image capture software that tell phd to dither and when, it then waits for the dither to finish and guiding to settle and then continues imaging.

How did you stack the images? That looks like what I get if I forget to use a ref frame in DSS.

You can reduce the amount needed. If you can get your hands on a auger (I used a 8" auger) and dig in each corner of the hole and in the middle for the pipe/ mount support. This effectively casts a concrete table in the ground. You might be able to have the main slab only 500mm thick.

Looks like all previous threads are just talking about the new style mounts or complaining about DEC backlash in the older ones. I am going to have to agree with @Freddie. There must only be a handful out there. I have trawled the forum and seem to find the older ones are guiding anywhere between 1 and .5". I am fully aware of weights balance and all the other things to take into consideration and understand its not a mesu. But it would be nice to have a end users opinion on the new mount just for a little info.

Most people say 1m3 but I only went about 700mm3 it depends on your ground. If you use wood it will warp so you want something that is not prone to movement, steel or aluminium. Are you going to leave your mount outside? I would say permanent power and connections to the mount will really help. If you do it do it right or at least do the best you can. You really do not want to have to redo it. You cannot beat a pier as you can be up and running in minutes (cooling the camera is the longest part). It helps you grab the chance to image at times you would not if you have to set up from scratch.

Depends on what mount you have. You can always use a car brake disc as an adapter. The todmorden will be quick and easier to build but need to be a permanent structure but I guess this is the point of building a pier. I used 8" plastic pipe, sunk two feet into a concrete base with about four feet above ground. This then got filled with concrete.

Hi All, I am just wondering how good these mounts are when guiding. I now the newer ones have belts on the RA and DEC so the backlash issues should now have been resolved. I have a eq6 that performs around 0.7-0.9 on average (sometimes better, sometimes worse) but how would going up to an 8 improve things. Will I just get a more solid rms or would you expect the 8 be below the 0.5 rms mark? The neq6 is belt modded and has the upgraded wedge so other than spending a few hundred on the zero backlash worm mount there is not allot to improve it. Would the jump to the eq8 be worth the money? I guess the next step would be a mesu. Any experience of these would be helpful.

Have you tried running the PEC algorithm in PHD?

I don't know why but I have a habit of putting the worm and gear into the housing and forgetting to put the belt on and only noticing once I have the worm fully installed. I found that using a length of strimmer cord works wonders when pulling the belt through into the housing, I guess its the same as an elastic band but will not snap. If you set the tension on the worms before putting it back together then it may be easier to set the worm and gear using the two grub screws first and get it as close as possible and then making adjustments to the screw on the end of the worm shaft to take that last bit out if needed. Just my 2p worth.

what about one of these?

I think they are asking way too much. I would expect to pay around £100 for that.

Could you not make an adaptor to fit another mount onto the existing pier? Not sure of the mounting details on the eq8 but my neq6 sits on two old disc brakes from my old golf. The meade will be okay but due to dec rotation you will end up having to crop out allot of data. I nearly brought an old meade last year. 12" one (maybe a lx200) but it had sat way to long and after a good inspection decided that looked to much like hard work getting the thing apart. My eq6 on the other hand is a doddle to strip down. Have you tried asking on the cloudynight forum. It more American based and I am sure they are more into meade's so might be able to help.

Hi @philipok, If you want to do long exposure imaging then the meade mount will restrict you. If you are thinking of an eq8 then I would go down this route. The new ones now have a belt on RA and DEC so the dreaded DEC backlash should be sorted and as you would be connecting the mount to your pc the mention above about goto issues will be eliminated. It should also manage the meade and wo scope without much effort. If I could afford the eq8 then I would have one.

Hi @huntapix How are you connecting the mount to your pc?

Thanks @old_eyes. It is annoying that you cannot create a flats sequence like in sgpro's flats calibration wizard.

To help with the DEC balance I have a sturdy flat steel bar with several holes drilled into it. This is bolted to top of the rings with a rear over hang. I use this to attach the guide scope and it allows me to bolt a sufficient weight to the rear. It's definitely a diy job but it has worked for a couple of years now.

I just let the balance of the third axis tell me where it needs to sit, but at the moment its happier sat underneath (more or less).

Hi All, Not sure if anyone can help with this question. I am currently running off more flats today using NINA. I cannot take darkflats as it is just too bright. If later on tonight I go back into the flats wizard and just add darkflats will it give me the same result? I have no way of saving the exposure times of the flats to add to a sequence to use later on. Or will I have to run off the flats and dark flats at the same time. Thanks.

I do deep sky stuff and have not touched the planetary stuff for years. I think if I went back to it I would have a learning curve to get over. Deep sky stuff yes is challenging but not ridiculous to do. It all comes down the the end user and how far they want to go. If you want a starup no fuss set up then as @carastro mentioned above a heq5 minimum for your mount and something like a ed80 for a scope. The scope is a not fuss out the box ready to go. A cheaper option again recommend by @carastro is the 130pds. Much cheaper scope but will need some tinkering. If you are prepared to do a bit of work then this hobby is cheaper. If you want to buy without much fuss then the prices will go up quickly. Keep an eye on abs for second hand kit. heq5 second hand £500 neq6 second hand £700 130pds second hand £100-120 I always look to sell and buy at around 70% of the original cost. Just do not make the mistake many of us have and buy new kit that needs changing in 5 minutes and end up costing you money. HTH

Thought I would post up this attempt. Ha, Oiii, Oiii. About 10 hours over the last few days. ASI1600. I have some issues that need sorting but may end up adding some Sii. Tiff seemed to large so just a jpeg.

Well done Dave. You have got allot more detail from your data then I managed in mine. There are some lovely wispy bit there. Looking back at both images the second one certainly has more detail to my eye and screen.

@Anthony1979 These little scopes are such good bang for your buck. I can only highly recommend it. I Think at the end of the day they are a newt and so do need some form of housekeeping. Yes the focus can seem a little extreme but worth it. I would also recommend flocking the tube, baffling the primary mirror and making (or using a thick black shower cap) a cover for the end of the scope.

Out with the hacksaw then....You can just take a large part out of the focus tube as this will also leave you with the part that stops the tube falling out if wound out.

I could be really wrong here but in the back of my head I am thinking you do not need as much focus travel with a dslr, so the op should be okay?