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Everything posted by Moonshane

  1. Same for me John in terms of lots of T2 Baader stuff available. Hopefully mine will come tomorrow
  2. Cheers Michael. I did thankfully take the opportunity to see it on Saturday night but really would like to do a sketch and see it again
  3. It's probably correct but I don't see the point either. A 25mm Plossl would have more true field.
  4. It's probably only really bought by professional OBS and people with £30k scopes, then it's a cheap part of the chain Does anybody have any idea please how long the path is through the Altair or zwo units?
  5. I must admit I find the images above about 200x start to get rather dark and I enjoy much more the views at 109-150x. E.g using my 120mm Equinox, the Baader Maxbrights and the 1.7x GPC I get (I assumed) 117x and 156x with the 20mm (TV Plossl) and 15mm (Panoptic) pairs. I find if I go to the 11mm pair (212x) it starts to darken a lot.
  6. The prices of the others puts into perspective how amazingly affordable much great quality telescope gear is these days when you compare what you get for the price you get it for. And still we moan
  7. I just ordered the Altair one too. Will be interesting to see how well it works. If nothing else it will give me more impetus to observe!!
  8. I have Maxbrights and generally use a quick connection system but my bvs just screw onto the male thread on the diagonal (mine is the prism one)
  9. It's all part of the initiation process to see if you can stand hours in the cold staring at one object
  10. Ps anyone know if it adds much to the train? And what about binoviewer use?
  11. I think I might get one. The Altair one does look fancy.
  12. Would it improve low doubles like Sirius and Antares?
  13. Back to mounts, I think that I'd keep away from a runaround slew.
  14. Reminds me of the view I had of Zeta Herculis a while back. Great obs notes as always
  15. As daft AST it sounds, sometimes a different scope is cheaper than a set of new eyepieces trying to force a scope into a corner where it is not comfortable. Maybe a solution is more to be found in something like https://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/skywatcher-skymax-127-ota.html
  16. Look through the eyepiece in your hand not the scope. This will get you used to the correct position to avoid blackouts. Then you can translate this to the in scope position. As for eyepieces an often stated ideal for maximum magnification is the focal ratio should be about the same as the eyepiece in mm. Or the aperture in mm the same as the magnification (130x or 5mm in your case). You can sometimes get more and sometimes substantially more but most often, the most stable views will conform with this and often with not much gained (and often something lost) if you go above this. Never used a Morpheus but they are good I believe. One possible option is to unscrew the Barlow element from the housing and screw this onto the eyepiece. For a 2x Barlow this equates to around 1.5x so with a 6.5mm Morpheus this equates to about 4.3mm so 150x pretty much allowing you to test the scope, conditions and your collimation (!) at basically no cost.
  17. hi Baz Sorry, been off SGL for a bit. One option (if brave) is to router some circular sections, and cut the side panels of the dob mount, and fix the circular sections to either side of the mount with a radiused block to act as a rocker box. It would then be carried in two sections.
  18. There's a great way to remove false colour inside and outside of focus.
  19. Hi all Yes, sorry been busy on other things! I have got to paint the pier, floor, the door and set up the HEQ5 set up and I'm away. My dobs are all down there though so once I clear out the bags of sand and cement - for building a small wall round my pond with flags on top - then I can start observing, ready for the main autumn/winter season.
  20. Superb! It also shows just how much skill is in the processing.
  21. Never used one but interesting to hear views. Like John I get (got) decent views when Jupiter (and other main planets) was (were) fairly high but I struggle now to even eyeball them having a north facing garden and a large hill to the south. If the spot was on show I cannot ever think of an occasion when it was not visible even in 100mm of aperture. Must try harder this year. All that said if it works for you then don't knock it
  22. The best scope I have for doubles generally is my 120 Equinox but when conditions are right I think my 6"f11 OOUK newt beats it. The Equinox is 'easier' to use though. For £200 used the newt wins. For £1k used the Equinox is also great. My 16" f4 newt when masked to 160mm beats both probably. I think a tracking mount is in some respects most important as it allows you to concentrate on moments of good seeing which often reveals a tricky split. Big aperture sometimes also allows an easier albeit fuzzy split. Newts are dirtier, fracs pretty and cleaner with distinct airy rings. Colours often better in fracs I find. Swings and roundabouts.
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