Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep24_banner.thumb.jpg.56e65b9c9549c15ed3f06e146fc5f5f1.jpg

dobblob

Members
  • Content Count

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

77 Excellent

About dobblob

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    astronomy, birding
  • Location
    Upstate New York
  1. Darthvader,Yes those items you link to are exactly what you need. A little more expensive than ones I ordered some years ago but you will thank yourself.
  2. Darthvader, I am surprised that no one ( OK tomato has hinted) has yet mentioned dummy battery packs for your Canon. For most (if not all) Canons there are dummy packs that replace the battery that can be powered via a Canon DC adapter from mains 220 vac ( needlessly expensive!) or much cheaper generic brands powered from a 12 vdc battery. They may need a converter to get from 12 vdc to whatever the camera dummy pack needs, often 7-8 vdc. The combo can be found on Amazon and will probably run 20-30 GBP. Really worth it to be able to operate all night for several nights without changing battery after battery , touching your camera and spoiling your alignment. It was a major downside for me to have to swap batteries every 1 1/2 hours, if that. Just a big worry not to have .
  3. I consider giving up as regularly as I consider giving up smoking. A typical recent night was forecast ( three different forecasts agreed) as clear with great seeing, transparency, no dew and warm from dusk til dawn. I checked the satellite images which showed no cloud within a few hundred miles. Perfect! I set up before sunset. This involves MANY carries of my imaging gear down (and later up ) a flight of winding stairs. An hour later and in a muck sweat I was done and firing off my first 2 minute DSO frame. I looked to the west and saw not a hint of cloud down to the horizon. Yay! I returned just minutes later to the rig with a beer and there was wall to wall cloud! First and only frame ruined. I stuck it out. I consulted the forecasts which had now changed their tune to cloud all night. Well poop! I persevered for an hour but solid cloud, no clearing from the west. Quitting time. Schlepped it all back up stairs and went for a final puff on the back stairs. Now clear from horizon to horizon. My wife heard words never uttered in her presence before..... And yet here I am again looking forward, undaunted, to the next clear night......
  4. I recommend anything but a Celestron Power Tank. They are overpriced, unreliable and with features you will never need. Get a 12v battery, ANY battery, for 1/2 the price and twice the amp hours. I leave suggestions as to which one to others .
  5. No meteor, Draconid or not. Looks like someone playing around with a green laser pointer. Color perfect for a GLP and beam divergence very clear.
  6. I have been using the AVX for the last 5 years . I began imaging with a 1200 mm CR 6 but found the mount/scope combo was too sensitive to wind and overloaded at nearly 30 lbs. I stepped back to a SW 80 ED at 600 mm. Results were excellent and remain so with auto guiding. The mount had some issues after purchase but Celestron provided great service. I couldn't be happier with it. I know some will come back and rip this mount to pieces and indeed like any other mount there are good and bad out there even among high end mounts costing 5 X as much. I hear newer models seem more reliable now. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
  7. Images of terrestrial targets on the horizon in any scope are rarely a good test. The thermal disturbance will ruin the view on the best of days. The moon is now well positioned and this will probably be the best object to judge your telescope on.
  8. I loaded mine up with 30 lbs of imaging gear plus the two 12 lb counterweights and succeeded with well guided images at 1200 mm. (150 mm f 8 OG) I did no damage but the whole operation just "felt risky". It was very sensitive to wind and I had to keep a continual eye on tripod and other clashes. I didn't keep the configuration for long.I was soon nervous enough to make it all a lot easier by getting a SW 80 mm ED f7.5. So yes it works at 30 lb but I wouldn't like to say how long for.....
  9. The EF lens should fit on the XT no problem. Be aware that the field of view (image width) at 300 mm on the sensor will be about 4 degrees wide while the moon is only 1/2 degree wide. The moon will look a little lost in the image. Zooming the image will reveal that the lens is not really great at that extreme 300 mm and the image will not be crisp. I have used this lens on the moon with a 3 Ti canon and not been impressed with the result.
  10. Hi Tony from another upstate New Yorker. Welcome !
  11. I would be pretty sure this is StarLink. I captured a similar image on the 12th with the flash rate looking about the same. I checked the time against Stellarium which showed no satellites for the area of sky. I assume that Stellarium had no update yet and anyway why would it show satellites that are still jockeying for their final orbits? StarLinks are often strung out like that and do not necessarily follow single file. DSS kappa-sigma clipping got rid of them easily. Hooray ! We have weapons that can defeat you Mr. Musk.......
  12. The first image is a classic example of "walking noise" caused by the sensor repeatedly recording the image at the same position. I experienced this often with my D 600. The usual answer for this is "dithering" whereby the image on the sensor is shifted by a few pixels each frame. This is usually accomplished by guiding software but it looks like you have tracking only. If the scope can be offset manually between frames by a very small amount in RA and DEC then this can help. I suppose it might be possible to VERY briefly stop tracking for a few seconds but offsetting DEC will depend on whether you have DEC fine slewing. (I don't know the NEQ 6 mount). I attempt this myself but not every frame. That would be tedious and time consuming. The second image shows what appears to be banding from the camera . I am not sure here. It could be some interaction because of the cal frame removals but it seems an unlikely coincidence that the bands are so vertically aligned to the sensor. StarTools has a banding reduction module which seems to work well. Short nights, no dithering and higher camera temperatures never help and considering that I have to say the image ain't bad at all! (green is a little bilious though...)
  13. Does the dovetail have an overhang, one end or the other beyond the shoe? Usually there is a hole or two that will accept a screw/bolt (1/4 x 20 ?). A screw of the right length into the dovetail may prevent it dropping out completely. I have done this and it has saved my a** more than once.
  14. No asteroid I'm afraid. Asteroids move very slowly and it may take many nights to detect the change in position. It was likely a satellite. Programs such as Stellarium or sites like Heavens Above can show what satellite was passing at the time and position you saw it. These days it is difficult NOT to see a satellite scooting through the field of view...
  15. I was hoping someone would come in ahead of me on offering industrial slag. (Don't like to be the first to be slapped down if wrong!). As a kid me and my mates thought we had found wonderful meteorites on a road building project before it all got tarmacked over. Looked just like the samples pictured.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.