Jump to content



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

645 Excellent


About bobro

  • Rank
    Proto Star

Profile Information

  • Location
    Isle of Wight

Recent Profile Visitors

3,104 profile views
  1. Looks to be a standard EQ2 mount. The position of the RA flexible control relative to the eyepiece will vary depending on whether objects in the northern or southern sky are being viewed. Equatorial mounts are designed to be polar aligned to subsequently allow objects in the telescope's field of viewed to be tracked by adjusting only the RA control. This can be a bit tricky to understand but there are lots of youtube videos explaining this. Here is an example with an EQ2 (note this is for the southern hemisphere - for the northern hemisphere the RA axis is aligned with the north pole
  2. Here is a Youtube video that may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Y0gU1YrnFM
  3. The dual axis motors are stepper motors, it's just that they are very low torque and highly geared to allow battery power driving without too much current consumption. I successfully used them connected to an AstroEQ for guiding. However, the gearbox makes slewing much too slow, hence they aren't good for goto.
  4. Some great things about the Moon are that it is easy to find and so bright that short exposure video imaging can be used with it. Many other DSOs, with the exceptions of planets, are dim and so require long exposure imaging. The dual axis motors, and mainly the RA motor, help with longer exposures though not with finding a target as they are too slow for goto. The dual axis motors can be used with guiding, though RA guiding mainly as DEC guiding isn't too accurate with the EQ5. So I agree with @SMF that the RA motor is useful and a low cost introduction to longer exposure manually located
  5. I purchased the Meade 130 Polaris about 3 years ago. It has 2 screws to secure the eyepiece (I added a third for imaging purposes). The aim of the red dot finder can be initially set using the 2 screws that attach it to the scope tube. Following that the finder adjustment screws provide fine tuning, with subsequent accurate pointing. Of course not everyone likes a red dot finder. It's a pretty good scope with an EQ2 mount having tubular legs, though still rather wobbly.
  6. Are you sure you mean the Declination ring and not the Right Ascension ring? The RA ring can be rotated if the locking screw next to the small pointer is released.
  7. I purchased one of these: http://ebay.co.uk/itm/223895728711 though from a different China based seller. Collimation as delivered was terrible, though the black (silicone?) stuff over the collimation screws was easy to remove, allowing the laser collimator to be collimated by projecting it onto a wall whilst rotating the collimator and adjusting the screws. A good purchase and did the job for my 2 scopes, which I thought were ok but turned out to be a bit off collimation.
  8. They are both equatorial mounts and can carry a DSLR. The Star Adventurer isn't GOTO, which can turn into a serious disadvantage: I upgraded from a guided EQ2 to a GOTO EQ5 mainly for this reason.
  9. An HEQ5 can make a great start to DSO astrophotography, especially where longer exposures and heavier carrying capacity are required. When imaging from a balcony there can be a restricted view, plus in the UK good imaging nights are few. That means capturing what can be seen as quickly as possible. One way to achieve this can be to go for brighter objects and/or widefield targets. This tends to mean shorter exposures perhaps with a shorter focal length scope and therefore a less capable mount can meet the need. One approach could be a Star Adventurer with a stock lens on your camera
  10. Also, what targets (e.g. Moon, planets, Deep Space Objects)? Astrophotography from a balcony in a location where there could be local light pollution may be challenging, though it does depend on the target and imaging method.
  11. A stretched version of the flat shows reasonably good collimation, but not quite spot-on. @tooth_dr suggests taking a photo of the setup (camera and CC attached to focus tube). This will help with a check of spacing (someone else will need to check this as I don't use the Baader CC). You could continue with a step-by-step check, with the camera next. When a 650D is astromodified the sensor is removed and needs to be refitted in the same alignment position. There are 3 screws holding the sensor - if they are not adjusted to the original position the sensor can be tilted, resulting in
  12. If polar alignment is well off it can result in stars showing as streaks, not as round out of focus stars. Holes in the centre of stars with a reflector are due to the secondary mirror becoming apparent with the image out of focus. With the CC removed, try taking a flat before imaging again. The resultant flat will show if the scope is collimated. The illumination source doesn't have to be too complicated e.g. an evenly illuminated ceiling without bright light directly entering the scope (what I use) or an evenly lit sky with a piece of paper or similar across the scope to diffuse
  13. You mention having cropped a lot of the image in the first post above. Even with cropping there is obviously something wrong with alignment as stars towards the bottom right are much less than sharp. With a coma corrector stars should be very much smaller. I suggest going back to basics. That means removing the CC and ensuring the scope is collimated. A flat and also an image of stars will help to show this - post here if it helps. If all is well the CC can then be added and flats etc redone to check the setup. It then should be possible to find out what is causing the glow if it still ap
  14. Measuring the amount of spare focuser inward travel available with the ASI224mc camera is straightforward: remove the eyepiece and stick a piece of white translucent paper across the focuser eyepiece flange. Then focus on a very distant object (the Moon is perfect, even during the day. Not the Sun). When in focus the image will be seen in focus on the paper. Now measure the amount of spare inward travel of the focuser. The flange to sensor distance of the ASI224mc is 12.5mm. Subtract this value (12.5mm) from the amount of spare inward travel previously measured. If the result is a positiv
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.