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JayPea

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About JayPea

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    Hertfordshire

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  1. Hi All, I'm overdue with posting these but I was lucky enough to see the blood moon on the last night of our holiday. We were on a site by the beach in South Brittany and although we had rain and clouds that afternoon they parted just enough to see it. I only had a 17-50mm lens on my Nikon D7100 but I did have a bendy legged small tripod I could stick it in the sand with to keep it steady. There were quite a few people milling around the beach waiting for it and we got talking to a Dutch couple also there to photo it. It felt like ages for it to appear but it was interestin
  2. Thanks for the confirmation. The supplier is obviously OK to swap but understandably surprised it could have the Nikon one in the Canon box.
  3. Hi, Just a quick question. I took delivery of a new Geoptik CCD to Canon EOS mount today. But my EOS bayonet mount is too big to fit it. Now I'm 95% sure they have sent me a Nikon version (although it's in a "CCD - Canon Connetion" box). I hesitate as I'm actually going to use it on Nikon G (no aperture ring) lenses so I have a Nikon(G) to Canon EOS adapter with the aperture arm adjuster on it. So it's the EOS adapter that doesn't fit. I'm no Canon expert but I know they have some different mounts unlike Nikon that stuck with F mount. Maybe I have the wrong adapter? but I have no Can
  4. Unfortunately I don't have a OIII filter . If I was sure it could work well with light pollution I could be tempted. With what little testing I've managed so far the small sensor and pixels (2.9um) have not proved a problem. But I've only used it with f2.8 camera lenses and the BSI nature of the sensor probably helps with the faster glass. I'm finding telescopes generally a bit long and slow for the FoV I think I need for the smaller stuff. I'd like a 300mm focal length f4 telescope if one exists. I'm considering an old Nikon 300/4 ASF prime (can't afford a 300/2.8!) as an alternative. Bu
  5. I finally managed to try out my camera properly last night both with a DIY lens adapter and new DIY peltier cooler. Two of my last three attempts have ended with disappointment with washed out skys. Probably from a combination of excessive light pollution and not the clearest skys by the time I’ve set up (I was desperate to try it!). I’ve had the camera since May and apart from quickly testing it worked when I got it, last night was only the second time I’ve got a proper DSO image off it. Because of security lights, car park lights, street lights, soggy grass and a good view of the
  6. The fan is very quiet and I feel nothing by touch but I guess only testing for real will tell.
  7. Hi, I recently stumbled across a USB fridge (by Satzuma) for the grand price of £7.17 including P&P and it was too tempting not to try it out for DIY sensor cooling. It turned out to be very quick and simple to get it attached to a ZWO camera. Two screws take the fridge case apart and you are left with a nice assembly of the peltier sandwiched between a thin metal plate and the heat sink fan assembly. It also keeps its flying USB lead and switch (cool/off/heat) and a coloured LED to indicate which operation is on. Simply take the metal plate off (remove two screws)
  8. Craney, the fairy lights are the least of my dark site problems (they have a switch). The three orange street lights may go out at midnight but the bright white old folks car park and security lights stay on all night and then there is next doors extra bright wide angle security light that I set off if I so much as breathe in my back garden. An ex Gotham city police bat light? Makes it easy to set up and take down in the "dark" though :-)
  9. Hi, I had a first go at Saturn last night. I was having a second go (1st go was Jupiter) with my ZWO 290 MM, Nikon x2 teleconverter and my basic StarTravel 120. I was finally set up, focused and (eventually!) had Saturn in my viewfinder by about 10:15. I approximately aligned the tripod but there was still some drift of Saturn in the viewfinder over a couple of minutes so my first trial drifted out of my cropped imaging view within 40 seconds. But all looked to be working OK. So off I went recording. Shortly into the clip Saturn disappeared! I hadn’t appreciated the clouds
  10. Thanks for the encouraging comments. I went out briefly the following night and tried again with a little colour USB sensor board (3.75um Aptina AR0130 1.3MP). Unfortunately I stripped the thread on the 1.25" mount and it wobbled too much and drooped so that stopped play early. I also had loads of dark spots from sensor dust. Being USB 2 and colour the frame rate was way slower. But I managed a recognisable disc as Jupiter. But no detail as the resolution was lower as the sensor pixels were larger than my mono sensor. Nothing to write home about. Then it struck me I have a
  11. Hi, I managed to have a first go at Jupiter on Saturday using the video frame staking method. I have a simple Skywatcher Startravel 120 and I've recently bought a ZWO ASI290 MM uncooled. I can attach it to a Nikon mount through a DIY adapter and using that I attached it to a Nikon x2 teleconverter and then that to the scope giving a total of 1200mm. That gets me ~70 pixels across Jupiter. To start with I was just experimenting to get the thing in focus and recording. The scopes focus has loads of tube play/slop so as you rotate the wheel the image goes out of view top and bottom.
  12. Hi All, One last question before I pull the trigger in an uncooled mono camera (for wide field and DSO, not planets). I've been looking for a quantum efficiency plot for the mono IMX 178 and IMX 290 chips. All I could find was a colour plot for the 290 IMX290 quantum sensitivity but not a thing for the 178. What I also found was a Sony graphic IMX 178 v 290 sensitivity and the following text: IMX290: "Sensitivity @ 533 nm: 6.9 p" and IMX 178 "Sensitivity @ 533 nm: < 3.3 p". So based on the second chart and the text I assume that the 290 pixel is just over twice as sensitive a
  13. Hi, I thought some might be interested in a simple DIY adapter to connect to Nikon AF-S G lenses, in my case to an uncooled ZWO camera. As I’m looking at using my Nikon G lenses but the catch is they don’t have the aperture ring to manually open the aperture when not used on a Nikon camera. I’d seen several people use attachments based around the QSI Nikon adapter with the manual aperture control but at $250/£198 it was bit over my budget. I’d done the usual searches but I couldn’t be sure exactly what bits to buy to guarantee I could just screw on a ZWO to a Nikon G lens and it would wor
  14. After a while dabbling with a dslr and an achromatic refractor I'm after a recommended mono camera and ed refractor pair to upgrade to. I have guiding and an heq5 pro. I'm looking at mono images as I'm in a very light polluted garden. Budget £1300-£1500 for everything (camera, filter wheel, Ha filter, connectors/adaptors, and scope.). Not bothered about RGB initially and I have 1.25 light pollution filters already. I'll be photographing the usual suspects, pinwheel, dumbell, whirlpool, Orion, etc. I assume wider fov would be out for these small chips with most scopes. The zwo 178 mo
  15. That amp glow at 30 seconds looks more than I expected. Some of the cameras allow 5 to 15 minute exposures. Would that be unusable even if kept down to a few minutes? The only other camera I considered was the cooled 178 (pushing the budget at £700) but I thought you need top class optics for the small 2.4um pixels and obviously with much a smaller pixel area you need much longer exposure (x6?). But then again it's a small sensor so you use the sweet center spot of the lens and you can use smaller filters. Maybe I should just flip a coin to decide...
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