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Everything posted by geoflewis

  1. Thanks for the info, based on your's and Donal's feedback, it is sounding increasingly likely that it is the filter's themselves that are to blame, if 'blame' isn't too strong a word. I inherited them with the camera which I bought 2nd hand, but right now I can't afford to upgrade them and also i'm broadly satisfied with my results despite the annoying halos. One day, maybe.....
  2. Hi Ian, Why not buy one and return if you don't like it. Having had success with the ES 68/40, I tried an ES 82/18, but couldn't get on with it so I returned it. Other than the cost of return shipping I got a full refund from TH (which included their shipping costs to me). That's one of the great benefits of buying on-line. Under the Consumer Contracts Regulations, you have the right to cancel at any time from the moment you place your online order, and up to 14 days from the day you receive your goods. Of course in the UK you might get 14 days of cloud, but..... Good luck, Geof
  3. That's excellent Pete, I gave up on Mars months ago and not sure how much if any planetary imaging I'll do this year with Saturn and Jupiter so low. I'll probably take a look, but think that I will mainly focus on some summer DSOs this year as I haven't imaged those for a while with the scope dedicated to the planets the last couple of summers. Geof
  4. I considered both the TV Panoptic 41mm & Vixen LVW 42mm, but after asking around purchased the Explore Scientific 68 40mm (ES 68/40) last year and have been very pleased with it for wider FOV with my C14 at F11. It gives me stunning views of M42 which just about fully fits the FOV, which was main reason for purchasing it. Geof
  5. A very nice image Emil and over 20 hours for your 1st NB image - impressive..!! I don't think I could wait that long to see how it turned out - actually I don't think I've ever shot that long for any image, but then other than Ha for enhanced red in RGB I don't shoot NB. Geof
  6. Thanks Donal, I've never captured more than 4 stars of the Trapezium with a camera, though I have seen E&F visually. Geof
  7. Hi Donal, I have thought about that, but as you say the cost of Chroma, or Astrodon filters is out of reach for me currently. I've also wondered whether the rear lens in the quadruplet TSAPO contributres to reflections as I know that when I've used that scope it for white light solar with a solar continuum filter, I can find 2 focus positions and depending on the magnification (Barlow, Powermate being used) I get both images appearing, one in focus one out of focus. Cheers, Geof
  8. Thanks Göran, I've been having trouble with those blue halos for some time and tried several ways to get rid of them without much success, so I'll see if I can improve them as you suggest. I previously posted about the M42 stars.... ...but so far no one replied. Many thanks, Geof
  9. Hi all, I don't recall a run of clear moonless nights in the UK like we had last week for a long time. I've just finished processing the 4 targets that I captured, so here they are..... FYI links to my Astrobin page where you can see capture details and full resolution images are also provide. Beehive cluster (M44) - https://www.astrobin.com/393156/ https://www.astrobin.com/393156/ Great Orion Nebula + Running Man (M42 region) - https://www.astrobin.com/393222/B/ Monkey Head Nebula (NGC 2175) - https://www.astrobin.com/393394/B/ Leo Triplet (M65, M66, NGC 3628) - https://www.astrobin.com/393867/ Thanks for looking. Geof
  10. WOW..!! That's a real cracker....
  11. Well here is my HDR image of M42 region. It comprises 25x120s each RGB, 25x30s each RGB and 15x120 Ha. I also captured 25x10s RGB, but didn't use them as the trapezium was well resolved in the 30s subs. I'm generally pleased with the final image (maybe my standadrds are not very high ), but I'm disappointed with the large halos around the bright stars and not sure what causes them, or how to fix them. I have attached cropped images of the worst stars for each stacked channel having applied the same arcsinh stretch. Clearly the B and G are the worst offenders, with the B suffering most from star bloat (dispersion?). if anyone can advice me what is the cause and how to fix it, either up front during capture, or in post processing that would be great please. Thanks in advance. Geof
  12. Hi Wim, I'm pretty sure that my stacking software ImagesPlus, doesn't have an option to use a bad pixel map, but I'll check it out. Good to know that I don't need to create endless libraries of dark masters for very short sub exposures. Again many thanks for the advice. Geof
  13. Thanks Wim, I've only recently started dithering (last few months) as I couldn't get rid of some lingering hot and cold pixels with just my darks (no idea why, but dithering solved it), since when I've been dithering every frame. Together with the fairly slow download times of my QSI583 (about 30 secs) adding dithering means that the 'dead' time is significantly more than actual data capture once I get down to 30secs or less. I also wondered about darks, do I need those for very short capture times if I'm dithering. I did shoot some 30s darks, but initially I processed the 30s subs with 120s darks and from a quick exam I couldn't see any difference. Many thanks, Geof
  14. Thanks Wim, I've collected a bunch of 2m and 30 sec subs each RGB - haven't bothered with any L. The download plus dithers really eat into the capture time for the short subs enough to more than double the capture time for each 30 sec sub. I checked the 30 sec subs and can still separate the trapezium stars, so will work up the data and see how it combines. Maybe, I'll throw in a bunch of 5sec subs tonight whilst I'm waiting for the Leo Triplet to gain altitude though.... Cheers, Geof
  15. Ditto here and I just have my rear lawn a high cut as it’s been growing away the last week or so - earliest I’ve cut the lawns in many a year, as normally end of March for the first cut.... Thats looking SW, an horizon that’s improved since my neighbours very tall willow tree came down in the high winds 2-3 weeks ago
  16. Hi everyone, It's been a few years since I shot M42 and back then it was with a DSLR blending short exposures for the core with longer exposures for the outer nebulosity. I'm now using mono QSI583wsg, so trying to work out what captures I need for a smooth transition from the core/ trapezium to outer. I think I'll shoot a bunch of 2 min LRGB subs for the main image, but what do I need for the core, e.g. 10 sec, 30 sec, or what and do I need to shoot RGB, or just L. Also do I need to calibrate the short exposures with darks, etc. Finally, what about Ha? Any and all advice will be very welcome please. Cheers, Geof
  17. Another superb image Avani, well done. Cheers, Geof
  18. Very milky skies here tonight. I can only see 4 of the lttle dipper and only 17 in Orion. Trying to image the Witches Head, but I'm fearing that it is too faint a target to get much in these skies, though it is just visible in stretched 10 min L subs.
  19. Superb work Carole, it really shows what skill and perseverance can achieve from even the most challenging light polluted locations. Geof
  20. Absolutely, though I think it's ok to confirm very faint stars with binos, just to be sure that your eyes aren't deceiving you. Geof
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