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About HughP

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    St.Ives, Cambridgeshire, UK
  1. Arh that makes perfect sense. I knew that it should have some 'transparency'in the top layer. I usually save with layers either PSD or Tif. Then flatten. I'm now just wondering if it may be because I'm using PS5.1 I will be updating later this month to subscription.
  2. That's a really interesting shortcut, but it still does not reproduce the view on screen of the 3 layers. The middle layer seems to be ignored. I can see that it has uses. Thanks.
  3. Dave, thanks for the reply. No matter what I do, flatten, merge, select all 3 layers the result is still the same. I'm convinced if you have an image layer above another it must have reduced opacity or it will 'block' anything under it. I have all 3 layers active (the eyes on the left) the middle one selected in blue is just the layer that is active for adjustment. But I have tried or suggestion but still no joy. Thank you for reply though the thread being a bit old I did not expect a reply! The result in 3 layers has made such a difference to my North American Nebula image it is worth trying to find a way. Cheers Hugh
  4. I must be doing something wrong! I have followed the steps and my image is vastly improved with less stars, but when I save it is as I have done nothing! I have the Starless image at the bottom, my original in the middle with and a copy above that with blend set to Pin Light. I then reduce the opacity of the middle layer to 60% and save. It seems to me that unless the opacity of the top layer (Pin Light) is reduced then that layer will be the resulting image. I was taught to look on layers as sheets of glass that you look down on, each layer then alters the layer below. The process certainly works and I like the result, just need to find a way to save it.
  5. Paul, have been looking hard at comments here and on the net. It seems as it is difficult to add a camera to the PST and a DSLR is heavy anyway. I think it best I stick to white light solar (not that there any sunspots at present). The PST is a great price, but not for me unfortunately. I hope I have not wasted your time and hope you get a buyer soon, I'm sure you will. Regards Hugh.
  6. Thanks Dave, was thinking on selling the 178MC and getting mono, then saw this PST up for sale. Hugh
  7. I'm interested, if attaching a DSLR do you know what sort of field of view you get? Full disc? I have a ZWO 178MC as well but never got on with it. Where about's are you in Camb's, as you see I'm St. Ives.
  8. 8472, Check that the pilar that the 2 az adjuster's work against is secure. I found on mine it was loose so it never had a positve az 'lock'. You will find underneath the wedge is a screw that inside holds a pilar stud. You have to just put some lock thread on this and do it it up. It will not come loose again. It's a bit of a pain as you have to dismantle the wedge to get to it. But a least no special tools are required. I also had a proplen with the alitude locking lever and had to replace that with a new bolt, spacer and hand wheel. A much better and poitive solution.
  9. Starsearcher. When I first had my SA I thought my alignment was wrong. It turned out that there was a small amount of grease to lubricate the ball head and that induced some slippage. Worked some meths around the ball and now the ball head stays on track. HughP.
  10. Rob, I see your point. Neat idea turning it upside down. Will have to get a different dove tail. Thanks HughP
  11. With my William Optics GT71 I have made a 1 inch square x 65mm Aluminium spacer. This has put the tripod mounting hole back about 2 inches, not so important on the photo tripod but I hope will make the world of difference on my EQ mount. The dovetail has plenty of room to get your fingers on the focus lock as well. HughP
  12. Alan, I would go for the ND5. Have a look at my image above. @ f7 and iso 100, I was still shooting @ 1/3200 sec!! HughP
  13. Made mine from 3 lamination's of balsawood (1/16") for the tube ( wetted & left to dry around the dew shield - protected by cling film). The filter holder itself from 1/8 lite ply. I then used some litho plate to make a shim so that the solar film would be not be under tension. I used 2mm nuts and bolts to hold the filter rings & litho plate together. To make a good fit I used some baize material on the inside of the tube. I was worried that film my fall out but it seems the litho plate was just right. My other hobby RC Model Aircraft skills came in handy! Does it work - of course it does, have a look at the first light image. Made for my Altair Wave 102 the filter stores in a Haribo sweet container that cost £2 from a discount store. The Baader film needs replacing now as it was the first trial version and has a few marks on it.
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