Staffs Oatcake

I don't want to appear ignorant, which I am, but Sorry I have no idea what you're talking about. Longer term may connect the PC to the system to use something like Stellarium. But also to update the the firmware should I need to.

Welcome aboard SGL. I've not been here long myself and find it an absolute treasure trove of information.

You'll need to convert that into degrees, hours and minutes to be able to enter it. So it 4 degrees. 20 minutes and 24 seconds West 57 degrees 39 minutes 36 seconds north. Hope this helps

Minus us west. Plus is. east. You're 4.34 degrees west

I'm reading through the manual for the Synscan trying to get to grips with using it in various options. The question I have is about PC connections. Is it essential to have a serial cable (9 pin to USB), or can you just get a lead that has a USB at one end and an RJ-12 at the other? And if so where can I get one from?? Any help and advice welcome. No stargazing tonight. It's trying to snow.

If you're using a mains power supply. Make sure it's a protected/smooth output. Last thing you want is power surge taking out the Synscan. That's why I run mine from a 12v battery supply.

Does it not have a charge light o tell when it's fully charged?

You're welcome. It was the retailer of my telescope who told me about them. And then he went on about golf cart batteries.

Instructions are really clear on keeping them charged.

The 7D is an excellent camera. It's got most if not all of the features of the 5D mk2. But with an APS-C sensor instead f the full size 35mm sensor. Would I buy it. If I didn't already own an excellent Canon 40D, and a 350D, and the price was right then yes. And besides it can be used for lots of other things besides astrophotography.

Welcome aboard. A few clear nights wouldn't go a miss.

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/jump-leads/phaze-4-in-1-jump-starter

It would seem that the problem with the power tanks is you're paying for a name. I recently bought a 12v jumpstart kir from Halfords for £39. Worth every penny. Comes with 17Ah battery, two 12v outlets a sub outlet and an LED light. What it didn't have was a red light, but got one of those from B&Q for £3. Can't tell you how pleased I am with it. And on the plus side if your battery goes flat you can go out and start the car. Don't think the power rank has that ability.

I was looking at getting the 7Ah power tank. But having read such back things about them.. ...... I started to wonder So I went down the route of finding a 12v regulated supply or a car battery. I wandered into my local Hafords and came across their Phaze 4-1 jump starter pack at £39. Got to worth a punt I thought. Even if it doesn't power my goto Synscan upgraded EQ5 mount I can keep it handy for when the car won't start. Well equipped with two 12v outlets it performed admirably. Equipped with a 17Ah battery. It's goes on and on and on. It quite clearly states that it must be char

Check out Canon's own website. They have a huge selection of lenses to meet all budgets.

What's your budget? And what body are you attaching it to? As some of the canon lenses are designed for full frame sensors or 35mm cameras eg 5D. Series where others are designed for the APS-C sensors 350d 400d 40d 50d. Etc.

Lol. I tried a Barlow last night and soon found that what I thought would be centre eyepiece was nowhere near when the Barlow was applied. Fortunately I was viewing M42 , so it's glow crept into the eyepiece allowing me to re-centre the eyepiece

Sorry my mistake.

You could try turning down the ISO setting on your DSLR, so that you actually get an under exposure. Even when I shoot the moon through a normal lens I would chose a maximum of 400 ASA, preferably 100 ASA and at least 1/400th at f11. Through a scope I would be down at 1/4000th at 25 ASA. If I could. If not. Maximum shutter speed with the lowest ASA number and then use the +/- to take it at least to -2 under expose. If it's too dark try adjusting it back a bit.

Definitely a refocusing issue. I've found that most of the eyepieces I kept from the old scope are next to useless. The bodies on them aren't long enough for the focuses to hold them. So like you I was ending up with the white dot with cross hairs on it. So from my old scope I'm able to use the 20mm set up lens and the 2x Barlow. Otherwise I have hold the eyepiece steady some way above the focuser.

And a clear evening in Stoke-on-Trent. Scope out and a few seconds hours exploring the skies was had.

Never a truer word spoken. Photographs are a split second in time. They don't usually live or breathe like a moment lives on in your memory. But serve only to recall the experience. I didn't buy my scope with the idea that I would take loads of photographs, and then spent ages combining them to get the perfect shot. I bought it to make those distant specs of light a little closer to me.

I was lucky/unlucky. I had a house fire that meant my old scope was wrecked. Insurance paid out for a new one and I added the extra for upgrades like a bigger tube and the goto system. I have an Orion Optics VX8, with a 1/10th mirror upgrade. Only let down by the eyepieces from the old scope. But I've never seen m42 in such detail

It's the first clear night since receiving my new scope. All I can say is wow. Currently studying Orion, but so impressed with my view of M42. Just wish I could get a photo. I'm so in awe.

When I read this thread I expect to see temperatures in excess of +30 degrees centigrade. But I wouldn't be worried too much about the temperatures you're seeing. I would put them in normal tolerances. I am a bit worried about the image of the person with the 20 degree face. Given that average body temp is around 36-37.5 degrees c. Think they me suffering from hypothermia if they stayed out any longer.