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Everything posted by alacant

  1. Hi I'm using nikon where all the t2 flange to sensor distances are 55mm. It works fine. I plan to get a modded Canon soon. Is the flange to sensor fixed on all Canon cameras too? I'm hoping that all I will have to change is the t2 adapter. Any info for a total and utter Canon newbie most gratefully accepted TIA
  2. Hi Canon specialist required! I'm a long time Nikon user. I realise that affordable and available come in Canon flavour only. I'd like to go with these guys: http://cheapastrophotography.vpweb.co.uk/Available-Cameras.html My requirements are seemingly simple. I want to photograph stuff like the horsehead and the red nebulae and I would like live preview I can connect to a laptop. Which is the cheapest among those in the link that will fulfil these requirements? TIA
  3. Hi and thanks for the method. We're Linux here but the methods you describe are available in DarkTable and Gimp too. I tried lassoo select too but no luck at selecting just the cluster stars. Must have a look at the expand > feather in amore detail. Anyway, thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction.
  4. Can't help you with the D7100 but I have a D40 and would love to know how you get on removing the filter. My gut reaction would be to use the hires 7100 for galaxies. What I'm missing on the unmodded D40 are the reds but I'm almost certain that the modded D40 would be good for galaxies too. Cheers and good luck.
  5. Hi everyone I'm trying to get out the little ngc cluster in the same field as m35 but I can't get the balance. If I stretch for the ngc I overdo te main cluster. If I get the cluster sharp, I can't see the ngc. I suppose I'll have to learn how to mask it (?). Anyway, any other techniques or advice would be most welcome. This is 6 x 20s @ iso 800 and an attempt at a compromise. TIA
  6. Tonight: the planetary in M46 or bust...
  7. I have an old 500mm f8 preset (certainly not AI anything) with a t2 adapter which works fine on the M setting of my Nikon D40. Setting the lens to infinity -when you can't turn the focus ring any more- works fine and it really is infinity. HTH.
  8. Love it. I've just started ap myself and this is inspiration enough. Never done a globular. And only 25s's. Gonna include it on my next clear night. Thanks for posting.
  9. Hi I don't know Bresser reflectors but if the quality is the same as their refractors, I'd go Bresser. They also answer emails. HTH.
  10. Slacken the collimation screws so that the mirror moves up the tube. You may have enough to get you to focus.
  11. Hi Yes, I agree. I got a big refractor for €400. I get great views and use use it for photos. I have a 80mm as a finderscope. If I had only the latter, I'd see a lot less. I don't get the ca thing. It looks a lot more natural than having 4 spikes emerge from every star. If you need to I found a filter in StarTools which dumps the blue back on the RG. Wonderful photo. Thanks. I think it's still going. That's one heavily modified EQ6 they've got it mounted on!
  12. Ah, OK. So the casuse is that the camera is not square?
  13. Hi I get round stars centre and right but getting elongated further left. I think it's the focusser (?). It has 120º screws everywhere but I wouldn't know where to begin. Any ideas anyone? I post a single snap. I think it's about 30s. TIA.
  14. Hi I agree totally but don't forget the other way around. I request info from a retail outlet in response to a post on sgl. I get nothing. 'Sorry, it's sold but I can offer you this from our regular store', yes. Fine. But nada. These guys have obviously made their fortune and retired. Amazing!
  15. I like it. I too use an affordable refractor because I can't do apo prices and I can't live with those awful false spikes that reflectors put on stars. Keep it up and clear skies!
  16. Hi and welcome You soon get used to it and everyone here is sooo helpful. Even when you don't know what to ask, have a go. Someone has always had the same problem.
  17. The smaller adapter has male threads which screw into the female on the focusser. It looks like it's an attempt at the minimum distabce you can have for a 2" accessory such as th cc. Very much me TOL but this would seem to confirm:
  18. Hi again. It looks as if it comes with 2 adapters: http://www.tecnospica.es/tienda/es/reductores-correctores-y-aplanadores/2697-skywatcher-corrector-de-coma-para-newton.html The shorter of the two looks promising. Did anyone else get the same adapters? To work? On another note, it looks as though I've about 7 clockwise turns on the mirror cell screws. They're the knurled ones, yes? If not the above adapter, then maybe a combination of the cut off 2" eyepiece adapter, a few turns of the mirror cell screws and some glue? I dare not mess with taking the mirror end apart. Cutting the adapter anyone? Hacksaw? Cheers
  19. Ok, I see that that would work. This is what I have: I cut below the words '2" Eyepiece Adapter", just above the flange. And the to hold the coma corrector? Friction fit wth tape maybe? Would that be enough to hold a dslr?
  20. Hi I've a blue 10" sw. I can reach focus through the camera by unscrewing the 1.25 eyepiece adapter and screwing t2 camera adapter direct to the male t2 threads which are then exposed. That then needs 10mm of outward focus. The sw coma corrector is in effect a 2" nosepiece with male t2 camera mounting threads. Is there an adapter that would enable me to get to focus with the coma corrector and camera? Cheers
  21. Hi. Anyone recommend one which works OK? I can't see differences between the models. Maybe I need a field flattener! Cheers
  22. Hi Yeah, I often thought about how accurate I need to be. I'm getting 30 seconds with round stars in most photos. I really don't wanna have to take a laptop into the mix to guide so am trying to squeeze a few extra seconds so I thought I'd try the handset method. Maybe it's not worth it?
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