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About Kyuzumaki

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  1. I have a lot of street lights nearby so the logic was simply to remove the sky glow which is prevalent in all my images. (Filter was only £15 so not much lost if it sucks) They are all sold as observing filters. But I already own these so thought they might do for a while. What’s the difference between observing and imaging filters except for cost?
  2. I have the filters in that photo. Not sure what #8 or the ND one are useful for. All seem to be from the same set. I found a different light pollution filter by SVBONY which seems to cut the correct frequencies. Someone on the web had one tested altgough it’s a bit more broad spectrum than the high end ones.
  3. Is this not just cosign error? The stars in all corners are slightly oval, if this is the problem and you have a different camera with a smaller sensor it should disappear. Only other suggestion is possibly the sensor is slightly off axis? So closer to one edge than another. You could spin the sensor around and see if it rotates on the centre pixel or slightly off centre
  4. I’ve been thinking of getting a new 12v PSU to run mount neq6 and a diy ccd cooler. Found these https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122285724990 They look good to me and are waterproof thought 120W would do me with room to spare but they go way up to 300w (25amp).
  5. I’m using an entry level cmos ZWO ASI120mm. So far I’m impressed it’s done better than my dslr! Thinking of making a peltier cooler myself to at least keep the temperature consistent. Still not decided on how to control the peltier cooler, was thinking n-channel mosfet, arduino and custom firmware
  6. Just wanted a bit of advice regarding mono imaging. I have a few filters that came with my second hand scope. They are all revelation filters I know these are not top quality but has anyone used these for imaging? I was looking at a light pollution filter found this on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F370861000046 im sure it’s not perfect but has anyone tried them or similar? at some point in the future I do plan to buy good filters and make a filter wheel but before spending more I want to make the most of what I have unless it’s entirely futile to try
  7. Thanks! ok I understand so its the consistency of cooling as well as the degree of cooling. I also though -04 or so was good it seems -15 to -30 is more the order of cooling thats being used.
  8. I have a simple question that I've not been able to answer myself about cooling.. Does it actually help if the ambient temperature is already very low? My last two or three times out using my camera the air temperature has been below -1 deg C and as low as -4 from the cameras inbuilt sensor.
  9. Yep thats the one (I cant seem to edit the topic title to match). Did a forum search for 2012TC4 before posting but it seems I neglected a space in the name thanks!
  10. Just heard about this asteroid on the radio. Its passing between earth and the moon closest approach is tonight. Has anyone heard about this? Observed it? I want to load its trajectory into Carte Du Ciel but not sure where I might find this information?
  11. Astronomy is a great hobby to get into but as I've learned since starting you need patience as weather, light (even the moon!) will get in your way. I have tried to use a telescope in a city area and couldn't see much more than with the naked eye to be honest. Once the light pollution becomes brighter than the stars no matter how big the scope you just wont see anything. Have you considered getting a second hand one? A quick search of ebay and gumtree throws up alot of small reflectors and refractors for under £100
  12. Very nice! Is the mosaic done automatically or manually in Photoshop/similar?
  13. Thanks everyone for the input, I've opted to go for the 120MC from FLO on the basis that its quite cheap, will be a decent planetary imager, is an upgrade from the toucam and a good guide camera for deep space imaging with my DSLR. If i decide to upgrade and go mono I think I'd go for the 178MM. @TareqPhoto Are you asking about factory repair of the camera? If so I doubt it as they are well out of manufacturing. The camera worked the last time I imaged Jupiter but when I connected it recently it complained device descriptor not found, lots of computers drivers google searches occured to no avail. As a last attempt I tried wiring in a new usb cable case it was just a loose connection but it didn't help. I suspect something inside has broken, if i could put the CCD into something else it would be nice but I honestly don't have the first clue about where to start on that kind of project.
  14. Long story is below but to cut it short the auto-star wont align despite alot of trying so I wanted to see if I could upload new firmware and/or control the scope using the aux port via USB. The Weisner ETX site got me started but I'm now stuck and in need of some extra information that I can't find there. I have connected and arduino up to the aux port and made a small PCB that pulls up the two CLK and DATA lines to 5V. The 9v pin is ignored but grounds are connected. Weisners site says that the AUX port uses an I2C interface but when I try to scan for I2C devices with the arduino the arduino crashes and occasionally the scope moves at random. I believe that it is not really an I2C interface and the data is more simplistic thus it is misreading some of the queries as instructions for movement. Has anyone ever dismantled a meade #506 cable or reverse engineered one? If I can work out the protocol it should be possible to make a cable using an arduino or even an attiny so money terms less than a fiver and it would eliminate the need for a usb to serial adapter too. The info may actually be somewhere on Weisners site but its so badly organised I've spent a few hours hunting and still got nothing. THE LONG STORY.. I have a small ETX-70 that is nice for some casual observing and I've set it up many times before and know all the basics. It previously worked well with the two star alignment but the last few times I've set it up it complains that alignment stars that are below the horizon but they are definitely not. For example I was trying to use Arcturus two days ago at 8pm so it was definitely above the horizon approx 20 degrees. I gave up and used Vega and the scope then missed it by a good 60 degrees or so. Has anyone else found this happening? I'm beginning to think the firmware no longer knows where things are as its too old. Any tips welcome! below is a list of what i've done already. Level scope perfectly Point north both with compass and using polaris Train drives, calibrate motors Double, triple, and quadruple check time date longitude and latitude Use stars it allows in the setup (missed the second one by a mile and then fails when the second is centred) Check battery (voltage 8.83v)
  15. I bought a scope and mount a while back in a bundle from a chap selling up all his gear. Part of it was a canon 450d and until recently I'd ignored it as I already had a more modern Nikon d3200. After trying out the cannon recently is seems to be far better, maybe this is just normal but I'm curious to check if it's been modified for astrophotography. Is there any easy way to tell? Looking at the CCD I can't tell if there's a different filter or not. Image related taken with cannon a few nights ago
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