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Ricochet

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Everything posted by Ricochet

  1. You already have a 130ps? Does that get use and if it does what are you looking for in the new scope that the 130ps doesn't give you?
  2. Sky Safari is better than Stellarium mobile. I had to use Stellarium mobile for a while and the free version is now completely useless for anyone who owns a telescope. Paying for the full version gets you something that is probably akin to the free version of Sky Safari in terms of features, possibly with the star catalogue of plus. I like the way the Stellarium mobile looks but once Sky Safari started working again I switched straight back. Sky Safari is a relatively large app in terms of storage space. I think my issue might have been that I didn't have enough space for downloading a data update, so watch out for that. PC Stellarium is a completely different product and one I would also recommend.
  3. Thanks, Mark, I just managed to get some viewing in before the sun dipped below the roofline.
  4. Oh well in that case, and with typical SGL budget creep, this is what you're after:
  5. You won't be able to see it until you have a certain number of posts. Unfortunately, scammers meant access had to be restricted. In terms of being a reasonably lightweight planetary set up it is probably quite a good option. However, whether it is worth the price tag compared to an equivalent Skywatcher achro or Maksutov I can't say. For £500 you could get a 127 Mak / az5 which I would expect to outperform an 80mm achro and also could be carried in a backpack to sites away from home.
  6. I don't recall seeing anyone report this problem before but there are only a few options; the squareness of the focuser, the travel on the collimation screw, or the mounting holes.
  7. Contact customer support at bresser.de. It has a 10 year warranty so send it back for them to fix or replace.
  8. Check if the focuser is square to the tube. Perhaps there are some adjustments on the connection plate or the connections aren't done up correctly. If the focuser is square I think you may have to remove the secondary and spider in order to drill a new set of holes in the top of the tube to hold the spider further away from the primary. If you're lucky there may be enough play in all the existing holes to shift the secondary a few mm away from the primary and the focuser a few mm towards the primary. If you do remove the secondary and spider check to see if the secondary holder is being pulled tight against the spider. If it isn't you may be able to fit a shorter central bolt rather than having to drill new mounting holes.
  9. As it is clear I've just had a quick session with my 8" dob to give the CLS a go. Targets were the open clusters M35 and M37, the galaxy M51 and the globular cluster M3. M35, M37: 21E and 14XW. In both eyepieces the addition of the CLS dimmed the view and made some of the fainter stars disappear. M51: 21E - Slight improvement in visibility of the cores with CLS. 14XW - Cores visible, no improvement in visibility by adding CLS. Prior to LED lighting I remember the CLS changing the visibility from cores to cores and spiral arms. M3: 21E, 14XW, 10XW. In all eyepieces the CLS did not improve the view and fainter stars disappeared. I also tried the Baader Neodymium on this target and although it gave a more pleasing view than the CLS because stars were white instead of green, the unfiltered view was better. The one thing that did make a noticeable difference was my Rsky observing hood, but I assume that recent events mean that we can no longer buy these and so you would have to find another item to block out any light not coming from the eyepiece.
  10. In my experience neodymium filters are good moon filters but useless for DSOs. The Astronomik CLS used to be reasonably effective on certain galaxies and star clusters where you can't use a UHC/OIII filter but that was when street lighting was sodium and the majority of light pollution was in the band that it cuts out. However, now that almost everything is LED the light pollution is across the whole spectrum and the usefulness of the filter decreases every day. Depending on the type of light sources in your area perhaps a CLS might give some improvement for now but I wouldn't expect any advantage to last. I'll have to give mine another go to see if it is still useful on anything but I don't remember using it for a while now. With the additional transmission spike in the middle of the cut out section I would expect the L-pro to be even less effective than the CLS.
  11. Baader sell this pouch which is a larger version of the pouches supplied with their Morpheus and Hyperion Zoom eyepieces. You can also buy the Morpheus pouch if that suits you better. If you're in the UK you'll need to order through a retailer (e.g. FLO) as you won't be able to buy directly from Baader. Personally I would prefer a pouch or two over a tray as you want to keep any eyepieces covered to prevent them radiating heat to space and fogging up as soon as you go to use them.
  12. I've got the old Meade version of the 2x ES. There are (were) reflections off the inside of the barrel between the two lens groups. This was solved by flocking between the two sections.
  13. Before you start taking things apart, try tightening up the grub screws. I had a fine focus not working on one of my focusers recently and the problem was that a grub screw was loose so the mechanism wasn't engaging.
  14. If you think you might want the Maxbright IIs it's probably worth contacting FLO to see if they could advise you how far down the waiting list you would be. The last I heard they were expecting stock to arrive in the next month or two but there are 18 month's worth of backorders to fulfil first.
  15. Thanks, Louis. Ernest's observations are always worth paying attention to. It's a shame that the two good focal lengths are so close that most people would only want one of the pair. Sorry, Cajen2, I shall never imply such a thing again. 🤣
  16. I think it would be a good idea to get these eyepieces sent out to a few reputable members for testing/review. When the 80° range first appeared under the Orion branding I had a gap in my eyepiece collection for a 20mm, but a lack of reviews stopped me from buying one. Other people might now be in that same position that I was in with either of these new ranges. The 68° range sit in the price range that the Morpheus used to be in when it was the defacto upgrade from a Starguider. The 68°s might also make nice bino pairs if they are physically small enough.
  17. The solution to that is to buy the 2" Clicklock as well. 🙂 I think they're excellent, and would happily fit them to any scope.
  18. If there's only one part of the scope that needs improving, the chipboard rocker box is the bit you want it to be. 🙂
  19. To start with, you've got the telescope on the mount the wrong way around. The end with the eyepiece is the front and needs to be able to rotate upwards. Once you've done that the cap on what is the right hand end of your telescope in the photos above pulls off so that light can reach the primary mirror at the rear of the telescope. The manual should explain how to use the handset to control the mount. Once you've got that sorted, point the telescope at the furthest object you can see during the day time. Once that object is centred through the eyepiece, adjust the finder scope so that it is also pointing at that object. This should allow you to point your telescope at a celestial object accurately enough to start set up when you take it out at night.
  20. Is the problem the rocker box itself or is the flex in the axis? If it is the former fitting some braces at the joints will probably stiffen things up. If the problem is the az axis I had a bit of play in the az axis on my bresser. The bearing is simply a bolt in the centre with three Teflon pads around the perimeter of the base board. The play between the bolt and the base board meant that the rocker box could slide a small amount as well as rotating. Adding a stack of Teflon disks around the central bolt both took the weight of the scope, making rotation smoother, and removed the side to side play and stiffened things up. If your issue is similar then perhaps the same method will work for you.
  21. The closer an object is to you the further out the focuser has to be to focus. Needing to use the extension during daylight but not at night indicates that you set up your scope during that day using a target that was too close. As a result of this, there would have been significant parallax between the scope and finder, hence it not being aligned at night.
  22. Why are you attempting to collimate a pair of Maxbright 2s? If there is a fault with then contact Baader and they will repair or replace them (the latter being subject to new stock).
  23. Do you mean exit pupil? Exit pupil is related to magnification by the formula Magnification = Aperture / Exit pupil This means that for any given magnification both f7 and f11 100mm telescopes will have identical exit pupils. If you want to increase the exit pupil at a certain magnification it is the aperture rather than the focal length that you must increase. For example if you choose to set a magnification of 200X, all 100mm telescopes will have an exit pupil of 0.5mm, all 150mm telescopes will have an exit pupil of 0.75mm and all 200mm scopes will have an exit pupil of 1mm. If instead you mean eye relief, then this can be countered either by using an eyepiece range with consistent long eye relief or using a longer focal length eyepiece and barlow, although the 4mm planetary you mention fits into the former category. As Mike says, for planetary observing binoviewers are the way to go, providing you get a decent pair and can merge the images.
  24. With the 76dcu, can you remove the smaller of the two OTA sections and screw the focuser directly to the longer front section? If this section can be removed and is the same as the one on the fs60 shown above, then removing the 127mm section of the OTA and adding a binoviewer with an optical path length of ~110mm should leave a telescope that focuses. Whether it is possible to balance the scope without the dovetail impeding the use of the focuser or whether the drawtube vignettes the image is another issue.
  25. Is it coma you are seeing? Perhaps the focuser is sagging a bit under the weight of an eyepiece which would miscollimate the telescope and shift the coma free zone from the centre of the FoV. Coma appears to "point" towards the centre so moving a star around the FoV will reveal where it points to. If it is not the centre try comparing different weight/size eyepieces and see if the position changes according to eyepiece size. If the star image appears to be an oval one side of focus and a perpendicular oval the other side of focus then you could have astigmatism present. As the Heritage focuser rotates you will also need to loosen the eyepiece clamp and rotate the eyepiece to rule out it being inherent in the eyepiece you are testing, and rotate your head to check whether it is inside your eye (more likely at larger exit pupil, see the Televue chart below). If it is a function of your telescope mirrors check multiple times during a session, it could be induced only while the scope is still cooling. If the stars appear slightly triangular then you have pinched optics, and usually overtightened mirror clips on the primary are to blame. However, with just a collimation cap being used so far, I suspect the collimation needs to be looked at in the first instance with a decent cheshire or concenter.
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