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antaeus

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Everything posted by antaeus

  1. Thank you. In DSS I have processed without align RGB and with No Background Calibration options. Maybe because of the Baader UHC-S filter, the stars seems to have white color, so I didn't use the star mask in ST when I applied the color module. Also, I processed in DSS the non-filter RAW files, with the same result in ST, the big stars have white middle. I believe, maybe those stars where over-exposed? Cezar
  2. I have stacked in DSS both images with LP and non-LP filter, approximately 142 minutes of exposure. I went not so aggressive in ST with Wipe. Still not so much improvement on stars, but I got more from Pacman nebula. StarTools is a very powerful software for processing the images, much to learn.
  3. I like StarTools for processing my images. For me, the sequence is : Develop Crop Bin Wipe Develop Life(Less&More) Life(Less&More) Flux(Detail) Flux(Detail) Flux(Noise) Life(Less&More) Colour Denoise Heal Magic(Shrink stars) I managed to get PacMan nebula (NGC281) on 85% illuminated Moon. I used the Baader UHC-S L-booster filter, but I could not get the colors right for the stars. Should I had checked in DSS the Ha option in recommended settings maybe? I also got 31x120sec without the filter. I will try to combine them with the resulted DSS image with filter in StarTools, I believe it is possible to do that. - 41x120sec, 10 darks, 50 bias, 40 flats, ISO 1600,- Antares f/6.3 placed inside Pyxis LE, FR obtained f/5, - 1.25'' Baader UHC-S L-booster filter in front of the camera, - Pyxis LE rotator- FujiFilm X-A1,- Meade LT-8 ACF. Thank you, Cezar
  4. Impressive images considering that you get them from such heavy light pollution zone. I have recently purchased a Pyxis LE rotator and was giving it a try. No guiding yet, I am planning to get an OAG and a guiding camera. I am in the process of learning on how Pyxis LE works, still tweaking the settings. For me, it shows promising results. NGC6888 - 9x120sec, 30 darks, 50 bias, 60 flats, ISO 1600,- Antares f/6.3 placed inside Pyxis LE, FR obtained f/5, - Optolong L-Pro filter threaded on Pyxis LE, - Pyxis LE rotator- FujiFilm X-A1,- Meade LT-8 ACF. NGC7635 - 9x120sec, 30 darks, 50 bias, 60 flats, ISO 1600,- Antares f/6.3 placed inside Pyxis LE, FR obtained f/5, - Optolong L-Pro filter threaded on Pyxis LE, - Pyxis LE rotator- FujiFilm X-A1,- Meade LT-8 ACF. Thank you, Cezar
  5. Hi, I know it is an old post, but I have the same problem with an ACF 8 inch and the Antares f6.3 focal reducer. Does anyone know if the same operation of lens seaparation can be applied to Antares focal reducer? Cezar
  6. I like how you managed the colors in both pictures. This is something I never get it right. What ISO did you use? Nice read noise reduction on both pictures. Congratulations! Cezar
  7. Sorry for my previous off-topic post. These days were cloudy and raining, time to review some pictures I made. I have processed two new objects, M13 and M57. M13 -124x27sec, 25 darks, 54 bias, 64 flats, ISO 800, - Antares f/6.3 used with spacers to obtain f/5, - Optolong L-Pro filter, - FujiFilm X-A1, - Meade LT-8 ACF. M57 -47x38sec, 14 darks, 63 bias, 22 flats, ISO 1600, - Antares f/6.3 used with spacers to obtain f/5, - Optolong L-Pro filter, - FujiFilm X-A1, - Meade LT-8 ACF. From what I can tell, it depends on the target, when using 800 ISO or 1600 ISO. I think that if I would have been used 1600 ISO on M13, it would have got overexposed. Also, I have found here a nice explanation on exposures with reference to light polluted skies. It seems that there is almost no difference for multiple short exposures vs long exposures. Thank you, Cezar
  8. I am thinking to buy a dedicated astrophoto camera (for example QHY8L) mainly because I am struggle with read noise on my Fuji X-A1. But before I will do that, will I see a major improvement in read noise on CCD camera for the equivalent ISO-Gain and the same exposure time? Thanks, Cezar
  9. I have made a new picture of M81&M82: -50x30sec, 25 darks, 50 bias, 60 flats, ISO 1600, - Antares f/6.3 used with spacers to obtain f/5, - Optolong L-Pro filter, - FujiFilm X-A1, - Meade LT-8 ACF. I should have taken more light frames, but I do not have enough opening from my balcony and that limited the number of lights taken. Also, this is my attempt on M106: - 48x50sec, 20 darks, 50 bias, 63 flats, ISO 1600 + 48x35sec, 20 darks, 50 bias, 50 flats, ISO 1600, - Antares f/6.3 used with spacers to obtain f/5, - Optolong L-Pro filter, - FujiFilm X-A1, - Meade LT-8 ACF. The pictures were processed in DSS and adjusted in StarTools. I like the use of Antares with spacers to get f/5 reducer. I do not see any distortions of stars with this reducing. I will have to try ISO 800, as I think that 1600 is too high value from my light polluted skies. Also, it was my first try with DSS to combine multiple sessions (same ISO, filter and reducer) and I hope it made a difference, even if I did not had greater number of light frames on one session. Thank you, Cezar
  10. My thoughts exactly. I also wanted to buy a cooled camera, but changed my mind for the same reasons. I do not want to mod my Fuji X-A1. For the moment, I like how it performs. In the graphic you linked, the X-A1 is starting with read noise from lower values than X-T1. Can you tell me please, that means for the same ISO, X-A1 will show less noise? Cezar
  11. Thank you Ian. As soon as I will have clear skies, I will make some tests with ISO 400/800/1600. I was afraid that my CLS filter will cut too much from luminosity. What I wanted to try also, is increasing the distance between the focal reducer and the camera sensor.(I have ordered some T2 spacers for that). I have made some measurements and my current reducing is f/6.1. I do not know how much the improvement will be on image quality, but I have found this discussion here about combining focal reducers. Cezar
  12. Yes, you are right, the Fujifilm X-A1 has a conventional Bayer filter array. I have bought this camera second hand at a very nice price of $150, lens included and decided to give it a try with astrophotography. So far, I like what it can show. I think I will stay with Fuji X-A1 for now. I do not have with me the raw files, but if I remember corectly, the ISO value I have used was 3200. Cezar
  13. Hi everyone! Congratulations on a very informative and inspiring topic. I live in Bucharest and my pictures are made under a high light polluted skies from my balcony. My setup is: Meade LT-8 ACF, Fujifilm X-A1 camera, Optolong L-Pro filter 2" and Antares f/6.3 focal reducer. I am at the beginning of the astrophotography road. I do not like equatorial mounts, for me they are bulkier and not as easy to setup. So, here are my attempts (DSS and Startools) : M81 & M82, 60x25sec, 30 dark, 30 bias, 30 flats M108, 30x25sec, 30 dark, 30 bias, 30 flats Thank you, Cezar
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