brantuk

I saw this yesterday at IAS where Steve demo'd it for me and it's a terrific application. Great product and smashing gesture - big thanks to Steve, Grant, Jamie, and all at FLO.

You'll find that once polar aligned you can point the scope in any direction N/S/E/W just by loosening the clutches and swinging the scope around - but make sure it is well balanced first for best control. As Merlin says - once you lock onto an object it can be tracked in RA only. Depending on how close your PA is it may need minor adjustments in Dec. This will become apparent by object drift in the eyepiece when observing - or blurring/trailing of stars when imaging. Hth

I've never attempted this but plenty of folks have and it is a very realistic possibility. Someone else will comment on the equipment and lenses used, but meantime if you search the imaging forums for "Astrotrac" you're sure to find some dso pics taken with just a dslr and lens.

I use this guide for setting up EQ mounts - it's specifically for NEQ6 Pro but the same principles apply to any EQ mount. It describes how to level the tripod and then line up the RA axis perpendicular to the ground, and then level up the Dec axis and turn it through 90degs so it's in line with the RA axis in the home position. It's very accurate and makes polar alignment a breeze. Hth

http://stevebb.com/polar_alignment.html

Though I woulda loved to know what was wrong with it - returning it has sorted the problem for you (kind of) and you can now move forward, which is the main thing.

Let us know when you get another scope - or start a new thread asking for advice on what to get by all means.

Give then a call as well swtbliss - you may need to try a couple of times - but all you need is the date/time/location of their next meeting - they should be able to supply that over the phone.

Any joy with the astro society yet swtbliss? I'm itching to hear if someone's looked it over for you and solved the problem.

It's a real brain teaser this one lol.

The Griffith Observatory has a public event on the 14th Jan 2014 if you can get along to it. Also if you pop your zip code into the query box on this page you'll find a load more astro socs near your location.

http://nightsky.jpl.nasa.gov/club-map.cfm

You may find one real close who reply a lot quicker. I imagine the LA Astro Soc is quite huge and busy so may be slow responding. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a local astronomer just round the block from you - it's just a case of researching the nearest clubs and finding someone through them.

Have a good Xmas swtbliss

Is there any news yet? Did you manage to get in touch with LA Astro Soc?

For more information, send an e-mail to:
 astro.LACC@gmail.com
or visit us on Facebook at
LACC ASO Astronomy Club

It would be most unusual if more than one eyepiece was having the same problem at the same time. If all your eyepieces won't come to focus then it has to be a problem with the scope. Yet the pics indicate the scope looks ok at the focuser end - and the view in the draw tube doesn't sound out of place at all.

There's no indication of damage or blockage to primary or secondary mirrors - though it's possible factory set up may have left the primary badly pinched and/or the optic train grossly out of collimation.

When you get the new eyepiece - if it doesn't come to focus it has to be the scope. It would be really useful if you could contact these guys and tell them you need some help cos you can't get your scope to work. They will identify the problem very quickly:

The mailing address for the Los Angeles Astronomical Society is:

Los Angeles Astronomical Society
c/o Griffith Observatory
2800 East Observatory Road
Los Angeles, CA 90027

The telephone number for leaving messages is:(213) 673-7355

Oh dear - can you move to England at all? lol

Joking aside - there has to be an astro society in LA where you can get some help. I'm sure we have SGL members in LA who would be more than willing to assist..

Roughly what area of the country do you live in swtbliss? (just a town name or county). Someone nearby will offer to check over your scope for you.

Yes - those pics are a good representation of how it is supposed to look... thanks Ben.

If that is how your scope looks when viewing in the draw tube, and you can see your eye reflected back at you, and the focuser and eyepiece move in and out when the knob is turned, then I can conclude that the scope is at least set up roughly correctly, and that the diagonal mirror at the top of the telescope is facing the focuser opening.

("Square on" simply means facing, and lined up at right angles to, the focuser tube).

Next one or two questions :

Does the primary mirror appear clean and free from any unsightly marks or smudges and no thick layer of dust?

Can you see if the secondary mirror is clean and free from thick dust or smudges?

Are the two eyepieces clean and free from smudges or anything that would block light coming through.

Looking in a telescope is like looking in a bathroom mirror whilst wearing spectacles. If there's a thick mark on either the mirror or the lens surfaces then the view will be blurry. If you turn the hot tap on the room fills with steam and the mirror and glasses steam up till you can't see anything through them.

So when using the scope outside make sure it's dry and clean, and all optical surfaces are free of anything that would block or smear the view and not misted up with dew.

If all of that holds true then the only other thing I can think of is a very large collimation error. Collimation is accurately lining up the mirrors and lenses so the light path is central and straight. You would need to go to your local astronomy society to get someone to help out with that. If you're in or near the East Mids - let me know and I can arrange something for you.

"still not sharp and still blury even though I have been turning the focus knob while trying to focus"

Need a bit more feedback than this to know where you're at.

When you turn the focuser knob, does the draw tube and eyepiece move in and out?

Is the secondary square on to the draw tube?

Do you see the three mirror clips and circle on the primary center spot when looking in the draw tube?

Is there anything else in the draw tube other than the eyepiece?

Without precise answers to these questions it's impossible to guess the state of the instrument and offer a solution I'm afraid. 

*snap Shane

This scope sounds like it isn't focussed correctly.

When you turn the focusser knob do you see movement in the draw tube? (ie does the eyepiece move in and out when you turn the knob?). It should extend up to about an inch and a half or two inches. When you turn it the other way it should turn right up to the telescope.

Are you sure you only have a single eyepiece in the draw tube? There should be no extension tubes or barlow lens in between eyepiece and draw tube.

Take the eyepiece out and look in the drawtube - you should see the reflection of your eye from the primary mirror. You should also see a small circle in the center of the primary mirror and three mirror clips on the circumference of the primary mirror. 

Check if the secondary mirror (the diagonal one at the top of the tube) is square on to the draw tube. If it's twisted round to face the side of the tube at all then the view will either be distorted or there won't be a view.

If all that is correct - then pop the 25mm in the draw tube and point at the moon. Turn the focuser knob very slowly across it's full range of travel outwards and inwards. At some point the moon should come to focus but if you go too fast you can easily overshoot the focus point.

Let us know how you get on with that and we can take it from there

This stuff is just nuts:

https://www.toolandfix.com/everbuild-mammoth-powerful-grip-double-sided-tape-25mm-x-2-5m.html?gclid=CLP-yMaTsLoCFVMdtAod4VMAXg

You can get it at B'n'Q and you'll be able to lift a 25" dob by the Telrad lol

I agree with Mike - I had a try of the ES 30mm alongside my Pan 35mm recently and was amazed how close they are in performance. If I was strapped for cash I have no hesitation and get the ES - there's really not a lot between them.

Like this? http://www.astropedi...title=Main_Page

It is very much a work in progress... And I've not added to it much over the last *cough* year or so...

Ant

That's a very useful site Ant

For all the others I've been here over 5yrs now and still rate it up there amongst the best for information and friendliness. In particular our local observing group was formed on SGL which was instrumental in bringing us together - I'll always be very grateful for that. EMS is now 400 members strong covering four major counties with a regular 20-30 attendees at observing/imaging sessions when weather allows. All very friendly and enthusiastic folks who strive to help newbies and experienced alike.

Many of us still frequent SGL and offer help when appropriate (myself included) though we do have our own website now which has steadily grown for just over a year. You'll also find many of us at SGL events and other star parties and you're always welcome to pop over for a brew and a chat.

For now I felt it appropriate to recognise and say a BIG thanks to SGL - EMS probably wouldn't have happened with you

That explains my confusion - thanks John and Steve

Yep the Lightbridge has a very heavy base. The top and trusses disassemble but lifting the base into the back of a car is really a two man job. Some folks use a ramp and wheelbarrow wheels/handles attachment to make it easier. The main purpose of buying a dob is usually for the views produced by greater aperture - I personally can't see another reason - and the bigger the better - but you do need to plan the logistics.

The Orions imho have slightly better optics than the SW Flextubes - even though owned by the same company. Using a goto does help you learn - but you have to know what you want to goto and which stars to align the scope to in order to set the goto up. Realignment is often required mid session and the sky has moved - which can be disorienting if unfamiliar with the new area of sky. Plus - using goto isn't always quicker than manual finding.

None of those are biggies and it's all personal preference really - but you'll definitely learn more from a manual scope and you'll see more with a larger aperture. It would be interesting to know why you chose a dob in the first place if your objective isn't aperture?.

If you especially want goto then get the Skyquest which imho is the best of the two 12" 'ers. If you want to see more and deeper and getting a dob especially for the views (whilst not fussed about goto) - then the Lightbridge would be my choice. Hth

Very sad day for astronomy - though his wonderful lifetime contribution must be celebrated - RIP Sir Patrick.