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Everything posted by brantuk

  1. The main thing to get right is lining up the new holes with those on the other end. If you can crack that then both scopes should line up nicely.
  2. In the standard retail configuration the second scope sits on a top bracket. However there have been some very effective mods done to place it on the other end - as well as a third scope on top. Query johninderby and skytee and you should find some pics of the fabulous mods he did with his mount.
  3. Have a look at some of the main stars in the plough (Uma) - some of those are doubles and are easily split with binoculars.
  4. On a side note - this problem is one of the reasons a lot of folks sold their NEQ6's and got the newer AZEQ6-GT which has the much more substantial mechanism for set up and polar alignment. It's stronger and can be adjusted under load. If you get no joy from the return and you have the top up money required - maybe they would do an exchange for you - just an idea.
  5. The issue with Skywatcher providing hardened steel bolts is that the mount is made of a softer steel, and with heavy use, the internal soft steel threads would eventually strip and that would create a bigger problem for them. So they provide bolts that match the mount and leave it to the consumer to decide the best "personal" way forward. My advice is get the harder bolts (especially if you live North of Birmingham) and don't over load the mount when doing adjustments. Well worth it cos the mount is a cracker when it's set up right.
  6. The EQ6 bolts anomaly has been a topic of discussion for at least the ten years I've been doing astronomy. The problem is they actually are perfectly adequate when used as per manufacturers advice. The advice is to use them to set up the mount before loading the scope and other equipment on. Any further adjustment after loading is usually only tiny tweaks to perfect PA. The problem of bent bolts and stripped mount threads only occurs with overuse (frequent large adjustments) when heavily laden, and particularly at higher latitudes of 52 degrees and over (literally at the extreme end of the bolt threads). It's a common solution to re-lug the mount and use harder steel bolts - but even then the mount threads are "more likely" to be stripped e.g. if using a heavy dual imaging rig. When I had my NEQ6 Pro I used it on the move a lot - so I was always resetting it. It came with the hardened steel bolts but I still only did minimal adjustments when loaded. Most of the mount setup and PA was done unloaded. Of course if your scope is in a permanent setup e.g. in an observatory - the process is only ever done once so the chances of a problem are vastly reduced. Hth
  7. Close Charl - I just looked it up and it was commissioned by Russian Prince Grigory Potempkin - after whom the battleship was named, and favourite consort of Catherine the Great. It was a gift for her eldest daughter Katerina with whom he was also reputed to have had an amorous relationship.
  8. Hmmph... just read the rest of the thread and extremechaos beat me to it lol. I was all excited too hahaha!
  9. Ahhhh.... track down the swan - that's quite a famous automaton and I believe there was only one ever made. That may lead you to the house with the scope. Here you go - give Bowes Museum a call and see if they can offer the history of where it's been:
  10. I guess it all depends if the big bang happened out in the open, or next to a corner wall lol.
  11. A cheap alternative might be some of those Bressers 10x50's that Aldi or Liddl have on offer from time to time. I got a pair for £15 a few years ago and they still work absolutely fine. They'd be a bargain if they were now another tenner.
  12. The more you magnify the object, the more you magnify adverse effects of the seeing. Dso's are mostly low power observing whereas planets are observed at higher magnifications. So you see atmospheric effects more when looking at planets. It's kind of analogous to movement in the eyepiece where low magnified dso's drift across the view slower than highly magnified planets. Hth
  13. Download Stellarium - it's free. Set your location and then you can see the sky as it appears outside your door. Familiarise yourself with the ecliptic (the path followed by the planets) and the east/west movement of the constellations. You'll find yourself pointing south a lot in the early days. Then take it one constellation at a time - discover all the objects in each constellation. You'll soon build up a repertoire over the seasons of objects you can go straight to unaided. You'll find good guides to what to look for each month in the center pages of Sky at Night and Astronomy Now magazines. A good book to read is Turn Left at Orion - it'll show you what to look for, what each object looks like, tips on how to look at different objects, and gives additional information about what you're looking at. Good luck.
  14. You can get an EQ1 tripod like the one in this advert for a full scope, mount, and tripod: http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=131900 Sometimes you can find a tripod on it's own on "UK Astroboot" website: http://www.astroboot.co.uk/AstroBoot Keep a close eye cos the stock changes all the time - something usually comes up eventually. Hth
  15. Brilliant idea! We could combine it with renaming all the Messier objects after well known A roads instead of motorways. That would be a real hoot! lol Idle minds..... tut!
  16. The mount has some exposure settings and the camera does to. Some of those "onboard" items can be limited or not do exactly what you want. So it's common to connect up a laptop with software like BYE. I use Astro Photography Tool (APT) which is very similar. An intervalometer can be useful/flexible, e.g. if you need to run out to a dark site but don't wish to take a laptop with you, yet still retain a more flexible exposure regime. I must admit though - I don't use mine very much for AP nowadays - my missus uses it more for snapping birds lol. A south facing garden is great - just what you want especially when you consider the orientation of the ecliptic in UK skies. And you're quids in if you can also polar align easily. Once you know where your tripod is going to be every session - a lot of folks mark the position of the feet to make setup easier/quicker every session. On wet grass you can lay 3 small slabs in marked positions to achieve the same.
  17. Setting up and taking down a large Sct (the easy way):
  18. If you think about it, when you shave with a flat mirror you stand a certain distance away. But if you put a convex curve on the mirror you have to stand a little nearer cos the focal point is closer. If you put a concave curve on the mirror you'd have to stand further away. You're not magnifying anything, you're just changing the point of focus. In telescopes, a lens is used to magnify or reduce the size of the focused image, at the focal point. Depending on the size of the lens used and the focal length of the scope objective (mirror or lens), you get a different size of magnified image. With a normal camera, the lens does the magnifying at a fixed focal length. When you switch the lens for a telescope you're working with a different fixed focal length - the primary focal length of the scope. Hope that helps.
  19. Yup - it's a great book and makes for easy reading of a somewhat involved subject - Steve's a true master. You're a quicker reader than I lol
  20. The scope just does the focusing, it's the eyepiece that does the magnification. I'm no expert in AP but I think you're really asking about image scale matching with the camera chip size. I'll leave that for an imager to answer in more detail - and better than I can explain.
  21. Some extensions have a hole in the bottom that locates over the tripod peg to prevent lateral movement. Some of them unfortunately don't. I have one that does and one that doesn't - in which case I just tighten the tripod bolt as much as possible to prevent turning. I only use that one for observing anyway.
  22. M42 has some very bright bits and some very faint bits - plus a lot in between. So you'll want a variety of exposure times to pick them all up. To start try 10s, 20s, 30s, and 40s, and get say ten of each - that's what I did for my first shots of M42. I too didn't have a modified camera (1000D) - but I'm not sure what the 80D is capable of, some Canons have special settings for low light shots. I'm no AP expert but I used ISO800 initially, camera set to manual, and flash off. Interval between shots I set to the same as the exposure time iirc to let the chip cool down. Once you have a bunch of exposures (or subs as we call them) you'll need to stack and align them using some stacking software like "Deep Sky Stacker" (free to d/l), and then finish them with photo processing software like "Photoshop". You'll want to experiment with different ISO's and different exposure lengths eventually - but that should get your toes well dipped in the dark arts. The book you are ordering will give you a lot more info - and there's a lot of threads on M42 in the Imaging sections of the forum. Looking forward to seeing your first shots.
  23. Yup - it woulda helped me too - I found so many analogies far too confusing.
  24. At the bottom of the advert there's a power pack to go with that lens warmer. As for powering the mount I understand folks have used the SW 7ah pack which has a usb socket at the appropriate voltage. But mine takes 4 AA batteries at a total 6v and they seem to last a fair while - so I didn't try the power pack route yet.
  25. Yeah - I wasn't sure about the 2 thing too. It was a fascinating program and I thought I was just keeping up till he started on coins and cards sending secret messages to each other. Then the number two suddenly appeared as if out of thin air (higher or lower than being the proof or not). I wish he would've clarified that - or maybe he did? Perhaps I was just tired cos I was desperately ready for bed by then.
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