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Everything posted by Alan64

  1. The two outer layers of the gap-filler for the polar-scope were sanded in several directions with 100-grit paper, then washed... The centre layer was sanded on both sides; glamour shot... All three will be J-B Weld-ed together.
  2. Everything has been going slow on this aspect. I had to order a whole other sheet, for just one more piece, and then a few more hairs turned grey, or white rather, whilst waiting upon it to arrive. Then, to top it off, it's to correct what those involved failed to do. That gap is inexcusable, and it doesn't matter as to the marque of polar-scope. Something got lost in the translation when China began to clone that Japanese. But on the bright side, I'm nearing the end.
  3. A 127mm Maksutov is the "sweet spot" among the varying apertures of the design; not too small, not too large, just right rather. This is my own... ...and one of these can be your own... https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/p-celestron-nexstar-127-slt-telescope.htm https://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/skywatcher-skymax-127-synscan-az-goto.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/sky-watcher-skymax-127-az-gti.html The last kit there does not come with a hand-controller, although one may be purchased separately. As it comes, you use a "smartphone" and an app. I can't use a go-to mount, unfortunately, as I have too many trees here upon the lay. But for my Maksutov I'm in the process of transforming a 70/300 achromat into a finder-scope for it. It has a considerably longer focal-length, at 1900mm, than the three listed above, at 1500mm. My own is the same as the Bresser.
  4. I got my own from a local big-box hardware-lumber store, and out of this assortment pack... I used the three of the four of stainless-steel from the pack... I then cut them to length, to that deemed appropriate, with a Dremel rotary-tool and a diamond-encrusted wheel... After that, I formed the cut ends to match the squared, uncut ends as much as possible, with pliers or other... There are those ready-made, however those are for larger Newtonian-Dobsons. They might work, depending on the scale. They could be too strong for a 5" cell and mirror. But I got that pack of springs for only US$5, and did it myself...
  5. The aluminum arrived yesterday... ...and brimming with hope, promise, and merry respites.
  6. That's simply a mock-up, and per Tiny Clanger's description. Later, they then referred to this image of their own kit... I have no idea, as I don't have that kit, nor a 9x50 RACI. Does that look better?
  7. Your Sky-Watcher 130mm f/7 Newtonian, and with a spherical primary-mirror, has the exact same front cowling and rear primary-cell as my Celestron 127mm f/8 "Bird Jones"... The primary-cell of our reflectors is quite and rather convoluted. It's not as simply constructed as others. If you remove these screws on the side round, the nuts on the inner side will fall off within the interior of the tube... You'd have a very difficult time getting those nuts back in place. Do not remove those. Our reflectors are built like tanks, and are actually, seemingly constructed like one in addition. You have no other option but to do this... ...and to remove three of the six screws, the ones screwed all the way down, and indicated in green within the following image. You don't have to remove the locking screws which stand out a bit... It just so happens that the three to be removed are the ones that are used to adjust the collimation, unfortunately. They pass through the black, rubber grommets, indicated in red, which poorly act as springs, for tensioning. You should remove only the mirror's staging platform, not the mirror-cell's frame, in that. Whilst you have it apart, you can replace those black, rubber grommets with metal-springs. The springs would make collimation O so much easier, you've no idea... Within this thread, I have described and illustrated the aforementioned, and more besides, much more...
  8. The aluminum for the gap-filler is currently, "Out for Delivery, Expected Delivery by 3:45pm". I'm...so...ex...ci...ted.
  9. In any event, get a quality diagonal, as the one included with the telescope or kit is just that, a freebie, something thrown in to get one started. The kit-diagonal is most likely a mirror.
  10. Mirrors, by their very nature, scatter light, more so than a clear lens. This is an example of light-scattering... A Maksutov already has two mirrors within its optical train, therefore I would suggest a quality star-prism diagonal.
  11. Incidentally, it may be prudent to get a 32mm Plossl in addition, and to complement the finder in the hunting of objects. It would also serve as your lowest power and for the widest view of the sky. You'll have a right cracking shot at encompassing the galaxy in Andromeda, a satisfying bit of it anyway, this fall/winter...
  12. If the finder-scope is placed directly over the fulcrum, then there might be no balancing issues whatsoever.
  13. Where have you drilled the holes for the shoe?
  14. No doubt it has come a long way, updated, since my copy from the early 1990s; 1992 if I'm not mistaken.
  15. I've never heard of or seen a 7x30 optical-finder, but there's a first time for everything. Perhaps it was a typo, a 6x30 instead. This is an 8x50 finder, albeit a straight-through, and fitted onto a 127mm reflector... It attaches via a Vixen-type finder-shoe, or base, like this one that I installed for that 8x50, and for that reflector... Then, a 9x50 RACI is like a small, fast refractor; a bit hefty for its size. Would it not throw the telescope off balance? A weight may need to be added to the solid rear of the telescope to compensate. I love a challenge, including this one.
  16. I assume you have this kit... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/sky-watcher-skymax-127-az-gti.html The mount... https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0080/7095/5123/files/azgti_manual_v102.pdf The Maksutov... https://inter-static.skywatcher.com/upfiles/en_download_caty01316546582.pdf
  17. You need an adaptor, an interface... https://www.modernastronomy.com/product-category/accessories/adapters/
  18. You'll be able to cover the gamut with the 80mm achromat and the 90mm Maksutov; low powers to high, and for practically every object in the night sky, albeit limited only by the apertures of each. I know that you'll have an Amici/erect-image diagonal, but I don't if you'll have a proper star-diagonal. If not, you can get one of those easily, and for use at night. The Amici/erect-image is primarily if not exclusively for use during the day; birds in trees, ships at sea, that sort of thing. This is the difference between an Amici, and a Star... Note the apertures of each. The word "star" says it all. You can use an Amici at night, and some do, so that an object's position matches that as shown on their star charts and maps, but in the end a Star is the ideal for nightly observations.
  19. It's a simple clock-drive. It may have quartz within its control-board, or not... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/ra-economy-motor-drive-for-eq1.html Not, I think, as it has a variable-speed control, a slim stem, just under the power-light, which allows you to fine-tune the speed. I have one, too, but I've yet to use it. Recap... Again, before attaching a motor-drive... ...the RA worm-shaft, to which the drive attaches, must spin freely with the fingers, without binding, and whilst it rotates the RA-axis... It should be able to rotate the axis all the way round, one revolution, without binding and stopping at all... Else, the motor-drive can strain, overheat and become damaged. It must be able to easily drive the axis in its revolutions, as smooth as freshly-churned butter, with no binding. You won't see the axis rotating with the motor-drive attached and powered on, no, as it takes 24 hours for the motor to rotate the axis only once round, and just as Polaris rotates once round the NCP. Whilst so doing, the motor-drive causes the Earth to stand still, and thereby an object in the field-of-view of an eyepiece to remain motionless, centred within. With the wee motor whirring away, you can go inside, have a bite to eat, watch telesvision, and when you return the object will still be in the centre of the view. Equatorial mounts are good for that sort of thing, to observe an object for a long span of time. Not to simply glance at an object, but to study it, to discern and note its details, to sketch the object even; or these days, to photograph it.
  20. A 114mm f/4.4 Newtonian is nigh the reflective equivalent of an 80mm f/5 achromat, and therefore the Newtonian would be the same, albeit false-colour free, but redundant nonetheless. I would go with the 90mm Maksutov instead...
  21. Yea, the heyday is over. The Jubilees were used round that time. These, and what I call my "Whitechapel" Jubilees... But only if one might dare to travel there, and then. Silent witnesses they are, and to an unspeakable horror. <heavy breathing ensues> Then, later, we have this... ...and wondrous in its own right.
  22. Fidelity is apparently elusive, fleeting.
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