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Alan64

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Everything posted by Alan64

  1. Ladies and gentlemen, it is said that if you want to know how a thing, or even a person, truly appears, you take them out beneath the Sun... The legs fully extended... The legs fold up nigh perfectly; the hub can rest either high or low, depending on whether the arms are folded up or down. I have a choice in that, albeit not one worth mentioning... ...though I made mention nonetheless.
  2. In the case of your own, for now, just make certain that both axes rotate freely, especially the RA-axis. If you do that, you can add an inexpensive 9V-battery motor-drive to the RA-axis and track any object automatically, hands-free. The drive has a speed adjustment, and to where you'd be able to keep an object centered with an eyepiece for hours if you'd like. You could go inside for dinner, then an hour later go back out and the object would still be centered in the eyepiece... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/ra-single-speed-motor-drive-for-eq-2.html But again, the RA-axis must rotate smoothly, as should the worm-shaft of the RA-gear assembly, and to prevent damage to the drive. I've explained all of that here... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/319273-meade-large-equatorialeq-2-hyper-tuning/?do=findComment&comment=3492379 Best of luck.
  3. It has been said by many that the best solution for that is a tank of petrol, and then to get as far away from the big-city lights as possible. However, that's not a practical solution for many. An 8" Newtonian, or "Dobsonian",(which?), would collect more light from the objects being observed, and with increased resolution(detail). But a larger aperture would also "collect" more artificial light, sky-glow, at the same time. To reduce the effects of light-pollution, it's not the type of telescope so much, nor the aperture, but rather the things to combat it. A light-shield over the the front of the telescope, and at least a foot in length for an 8" telescope... https://stargazerslounge.com/uploads/monthly_04_2012/post-30602-133877760089.jpg That's for the telescope. For the observer, there are certain, pricey filters to help, along with something like this over the head and shoulders... https://www.flickr.com/photos/140554065@N05/46996552441/in/dateposted-public/ Have you ever owned and/or operated a Newtonian before... http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/
  4. Refractors 101... The refractor was the very first telescope ever developed; before any other... https://www.tiki-toki.com/timeline/entry/722273/INVENTIONS-IN-THE-17th-AND-18th-CENTURY/ But, they exhibited oobs and gobs of false-colour around the brighter objects. Then, in the early-to-mid 1700s, the achromatic refractor was developed... That one is very much like the ones that Captain Cook carried during his travels; note the length of the tube, and compared to your ES AR102. Finally, minimal false-colour was seen when viewing brighter objects, and with a manageable tube-length, unlike the early refractors of the 17th century. Back then, the tube had to be much longer, like this one from the mid-1600s... ...so as not to see the rampant false-colour so much. The short achromats, like your own, are a very recent development, comparatively, and to compete with other designs of short-tubed telescopes on the market. Folks nowadays like short, compact telescopes, and in favouring ergonomics over optical performance as a result. I have an 80mm f/6 achromat... ...but I don't take it seriously, not like I do this 90mm f/10... If I want especially low-power views, I'll use my eyes or a pair of binoculars, for telescopes in the first place are for seeing faraway objects up close. With this 102mm f/8 fluorite-doublet, the only times I've seen false-colour was when the front lens was covered with debris, and when throwing the focus in and out when viewing a bright star... This is a great buy on a 102mm f/7 ED refractor, but there's a wait period... https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-at102ed-4-f-7-ed-refractor-ota.html
  5. I made a test-assembly, as I could not find a definitive answer online as to whether or not this nylon(6/6 extruded) would bond to common-steel with this original JB-Weld epoxy. I tried to pry that small piece of aluminum off of the end of the nylon rod, and in vain. I succeeded only in scratching up the surface of the aluminum...
  6. In any event, you don't want to miss it, as it will not return to our neighbourhood until the year 3390. It is what is known as a long-period comet. When I observed the comet Wirtenan recently, it took about thirty minutes or so before I noticed its movement against the stars in the background surrounding the comet. It comes around about every 5½ years however, and is a short-period comet. Comets are utterly fascinating, and reputedly originate within the Oort Cloud located just outside our solar-system. I do hope you get to see it.
  7. The steel tips of the legs were sanded with 80-grit sandpaper, along with the previously-epoxied surfaces of the wood surrounding the tips... The inner surfaces of the drilled-out holes of the nylon sleeves were also sanded with same. The sleeves are now glued to the steel tips with J-B Weld epoxy, and the legs set aside for same to cure. It remains to be seen if the nylon will bond to the steel. I have a test-assembly prepared, and to check before I try to twist the sleeves. It will be at least twelve hours, or sixteen, as of this posting, before I can check them. This, the very last thing I had to do: shorten and blunt the clamping-knob for the tray... Sawing stainless-steel is gruelling, but the rest was kind of fun... I didn't want to shorten it too much, for the tray will come to rest upon the arms before reaching the hub.
  8. A camera's sensor, its "eye", is far more sensitive than the human eye. For one, the camera will gather more light over time, and for your images, making them brighter and more detailed. The seeing of different colours of and within the objects is also realised. The human eye doesn't mind so much if the telescope shakes and wobbles, but a camera most certainly does. The camera must be trained on to the object for the duration of the exposure, held rigidly in position, and with no shakes and wobbles. Else, the images will be blurred. When imaging, think of a small telescope, and a LARGE mount... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/sky-watcher-evostar-72ed-ds-pro-ota.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-heq5-pro-synscan.html ...for examples. The Sky-Watcher 130P-DS is also a viable astrograph, and on an EQ5-class equatorial. Have a look at this thread... It is more work-intensive however imaging with a Newtonian, versus a suitable refractor. Unlike the human eye, a camera's sensor does not require large apertures with which to image, as the camera collects plenty of light on its own.
  9. All three nylon sleeves for the three metal tips of the legs are now completed. In the end, the fashioned tips received a final sanding with 220-grit paper, then a coating of liquid plastic solvent to seal the surfaces. The surfaces are not nearly as smooth as the polished sides, and hopefully for some measure of traction when placed upon the vibration-suppression pads, or any relatively smooth surface... All that's left to do now is to epoxy the sleeves on to the metal tips, and shorten the clamping-knob for the eyepiece-and-accessory tray... ...then the tripod will be fully assembled, and completed.
  10. That is most definitely, absolutely, an EQ-2. You hit the jackpot. Yours, however, appears to be an exact clone of the Japanese-made EQ-2 mounts from decades past... This is the EQ series produced over the decades, and up to the present day, from the EQ-1(the smallest), to the EQ-8(the largest)... https://www.flickr.com/photos/140554065@N05/33084403028/in/album-72157664346648889/ The EQ-1 and EQ-2 do appear quite similar, but the EQ-2 is beefier and sturdier, and the next step up in size. For the EQ-2, you loosen, or tighten the axis(whichever is needed). For the RA-axis, at the butt, or rear of the axis... You don't want it too tight, nor too loose; just right rather, for a slop-free, smooth rotation, and with no binding. There may be a plastic cover over the access. If so, you simply pry it off. For the DEC-axis, the adjustment is here... You simply loosen the three screws around the lock-nut, screw or unscrew the nut to adjust, and then tighten the three screws back down. Have a look at what I did to my own... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/319273-meade-large-equatorialeq-2-hyper-tuning/ My endeavour may appear having been formidable, at first, but it was quite easy actually. In so doing, I wanted my mount to operate as a well-oiled gyroscope.
  11. A bit late I am to the topic at hand, but the mount portrayed within the listing's image is an EQ-2... https://www.jessops.com/p/jessops/900x70-telescope-white-97004 ...whilst the description states an "EQ-1". As to what is supplied upon the kit's arrival, is unknown. The EQ-1 is the smallest of equatorials, and indeed my own 70/900 achromat was supplied with one... But the mount pictured within the listing, again, is an EQ-2, and the next size up. I have an EQ-2 as well... An EQ-2 would "betterly" support a 70/900 achromat. Which one do you have in fact? In any event, I would suggest making certain that the axes are not bound up and difficult to turn, but I would need to know which mount you do have in order to illustrate how to go about that, if needed.
  12. One aspect of which merry mention has not been made: Do not stretch the film at all when making your own. It should just lay loosely within its frame. A wrinkled appearance is perfectly normal, and expected. If you stretch the film, the images will be less sharp.
  13. I just corrected them. Have another look. Specific links directly to Orion of California products are seemingly forbidden on astronomy websites outside the U.S. I would order your choice directly from Orion however, not Amazon... https://www.telescope.com/Orion/2160.home Yes, the EXOS-2GT is an EQ5-class mount.
  14. If you don't anticipate attaching a DSLR in place of an eyepiece and taking pictures(astrophotography) in future... https://www.amazon.com/Orion-SkyView-Equatorial-Telescope-Mount/dp/B0069WDUW8 ...although you can certainly engage in astrophotography with that one. But if you do plan on imaging in future, in the long run this is the best EQ5-class mount for astrophotography... https://www.amazon.com/Orion-9995-Sirius-Computerized-Telescope/dp/B00E63KTQW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549429782&sr=1-1&keywords=orion+sirius I'd go ahead and get that one, regardless. Both are the same as the Sky-Watcher mounts favoured in the UK... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-eq5-pro-synscan-goto.html (Orion SkyView Pro) https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-heq5-pro-synscan.html (Orion Sirius)
  15. One's done... Once the other two nylon tips are cut, drilled and shaped, all three will be epoxied on to the bog-and-dead-common steel tips.
  16. If the window is of an optical-flatness, and the front of the telescope was pressed against the glass, the one perfectly perpendicular to the other, then I would expect very little detriment to the images. Think of a climate-controlled room, in the shape of a sphere, and with a motorised base. The optically-flat pane of the only window, and the telescope pressed against it, could then aim at any part of the sky.
  17. If you haven't done so already, attach an extension, a lightweight shade, to the front end of your telescope, the longer the better, at least a foot long, and to help block out incidental light sources, whether natural(the full Moon), or artificial... https://stargazerslounge.com/uploads/monthly_11_2012/post-10522-0-87277600-1352846808.jpg That's for the telescope itself. Then, for yourself, you can block out the light sources further with something like this, and over the head and shoulders...
  18. The tray-spreader is completed. I still need to cut down the shaft of the tray's clamping-knob, and that's not going to be any fun as it's of stainless-steel...
  19. Thanks, Stu. Yes, it's getting there. At present, I'm in the process of attaching those parts to the arms. But I still have this with which to tussle, and the final touch... For what might it be?
  20. Six bronze lock-washers, all in a row... A question begged, "Wherever will they go?" Patience is a virtue, so now you know.
  21. It's not likely you'd get the older version from the major vendors; only in little-known, secret corners of the internet. In any event, there wouldn't be many to go around at that. The current one is what it is, and most likely the one you'd get.
  22. Hi Andy, This book is oft suggested for those wanting to delve into astrophotography... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html If you're keenly interested in taking pictures with a telescope, that book is an ideal primer. For prime-focus imaging with your cameras, you might need a mount like this, and at a minimum... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-eq5-pro-synscan-goto.html ...and a telescope like this... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-130p-ds-ota.html There's a rather long-running thread about using that very telescope for imaging... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/210593-imaging-with-the-130pds/ A camera's sensor will not tolerate any instability from the mount; not like the eyes will, and do. The telescope and the camera must be held rigidly, lest the images become blurred. For the time being, you could go ahead and get that telescope, and place it on this for visual use with eyepieces... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-eq5-deluxe.html In future, you can add either a dual-motor drive system to the mount, or a go-to kit... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/dual-axis-dc-motor-drive-for-eq5.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/enhanced-dual-axis-dc-motor-drives-for-eq-5.html https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/synscan-pro-goto-version-3-upgrade-kit-for-eq5.html
  23. I have a current version of that kit, and a Meade... It's a 114mm f/8 Newtonian, too. I've only observed with it once, and I was quite pleased with its performance. I will be using it in future, on occasion. It simulates the performance of a 102mm f/8 apochromatic refractor... ...but at roughly 1/40th of the cost. You will want to check its collimation once you get it, and for best image quality.
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