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wimvb

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Everything posted by wimvb

  1. I just saw your image on Astrobin; impressive. I'd like to image a gravitational lense at some point, but my sky conditions make it almost impossible. Where (above the clouds) do you image from?
  2. I only have a few cheap SkyWatcher 2× barlows in my (also cheap) eyepiece kit. Shooting at bin 1 will be easier.
  3. With my MN190/ ASI294MM combo, I always use bin2 at 0.95"/p, but I could try bin1. It's just that the files become so large (97 MB), and the camera specs are a lot poorer.
  4. Very nice, especially with the addition of Oiii. In my own experience, I find that galaxy images gain a lot when narrow band is added. Unfortunately, I don't have room for an additional filter in my filter wheel.
  5. Very nice, Göran. I had to look this one up. It must be a lot fainter than what your image suggests here. That's quite a stereo photon hoover that you have in your backyard.
  6. Thank you, Steve. All those hours were needed, believe me. But Adam's still wins in some regards. Aperture, focal length, and seeing do still make a difference. I sometimes I wonder if a longer focal length and a finer imaging scale would give more detail. Not on paper, probably. But theory isn't everything.
  7. @windjammer check this link https://pixinsight.com/examples/M31-Ha/index.html#Continuum_Subtraction
  8. I found a thesis from 2014 which discussed the interaction of ngc 2460 and ic 2209. In it was an image of the pair, so I compared it to my result. It seems that I resolved details down to about 24 Mag/arcsec2. Not too bad for a simple 190MN in a Northern European backyard. Ludwig, J. A Survey of Dwarfs and Tidal Debris around Nearby Massive Galaxies – Deep Imaging with Medium-Sized Telescopes, 2014 http://www.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/archiv/17232
  9. Thanks, all. @lrh, the problem with extended H-alpha is that it tends to produce pink galaxy cores, if not checked. But once I have enough H-alpha data, I'll figure out how to best incorporate it. My usual method is to use red continuum subtraction, which isolates the knots in galactic arms. @WolfieGlos, I think that I will need at least 10-15 hours of H-alpha. Fortunately nights are still long "up here". And yes, there is some ifn in this area, though not as strong as around M81/M82. The bright cloud on the left hand side is a combination of ifn and the glow of a nearby star.
  10. ngc 2460 lies at a distance of about 70 million light years in the constellation Camelopardalis. The galaxy has an active nucleus and is believed to be interacting with its smaller neighbour ic 2209 (to the right). The arms of the larger galaxy are thin and extend very far, which makes this galaxy a very difficult target. It took 30 hours of exposure time to separate the galaxy arms and the surrounding dust from the noise. If the weather allows, I will try to add H-a to the galaxies. Interacting galaxies tend to have massive star formation, which the bright blue colour of ic 2209 also hints at. These galaxies usually have bright H-alpha clouds, where the star formation occurs, and more often than not, it pays off to spend a few hours on targets like this with a H-a filter in front of the camera. This is often overlooked by astrophotographers. Equipment: SkyWatcher 190MN on an AZ-EQ6 ZWO ASI294MM camera with Optolong LRGB filters Exposures: Luminance: 327 x 3 minutes RGB: 68 + 47 + 53 x 5 minutes
  11. Some of my images from 2023 Equipment for all images: SkyWatcher 190MN on an AZ-EQ6 mount, and XWO 294MM camera Processing: PixInsight And IV, the satellite that wasn't M81 and M82 in HaRGB, a 2 panel mosaic Tadpoles in Ha pgc 12421, the truly hidden galaxy: ugc 12632
  12. Apparently not (after reading this thread). (😉 implied) But back on track; the total integration time needed to achieve a certain quality level depends very much on light pollution, probably more than on equipment or anything else. This makes it very difficult to compare results with others, especially if you don’t know how and where those other images were taken.
  13. After stacking, I combine the three master images into an RGB image, and process from there. If you don't use the RGB palette,(eg in narroeband processing) you may need to do a linear fit before combining the different masters. Linear fit puts the very lowest pixel value at 0, and the very highest pixel value at 1 (or 65000 in 16 bit), without disturbing the linear relationship between pixels.
  14. Apparently, info is available on Touptek’s chinese website, but not on their english site. Google translate should solve that.
  15. Let’s hope so. My guess is that it will. Touptek is commonly rebranded and doesn’t have enough market share to be able to pull off that ZWO stunt. But it means that they will be competing with StellarMate.
  16. I saw this in a Swedish AP group on Facebook. It seems That Touptek is about to launch its own version of the ASIAIR. The device seems based on a raspberry pi and has power output ports. It comes with an app. https://www.facebook.com/NickEnterprise/posts/831715765633781?ref=embed_post
  17. That's what the TypeCat script in pixinsight does. The annotation script can do this, supposedly, if magnitude is supplied in the catalogue. Although, I've never got it to work reliably.
  18. Very nice indeed. Those galaxies that PI annotation script didn't pick up, don't show up in Simbad either. Btw, there is a PI script called TypeCat, by Hartmut Bornemann that can download Vizier/Simbad catalogues. https://www.skypixels.at/pixinsight_scripts.html
  19. It can also function as an explanation of the saying "there's more than one way to skin a cat."
  20. When you use morphological transformation to reduce stars, you can to a certain degree, control which stars to transform. Create a star mask that uses few layers (scale) and adjust the noise threshold. Use morphological transformation with morph selection. https://pixinsight.com/forum/index.php?threads/really-need-removal-of-tiny-stars.8833/
  21. Well put. -.-.-- = ! So, really: keep at it mate!!! Regarding your computer issues, I empathize, having had my fair share of those (atm my old laptop seems bricked). If you're not afraid to use a command shell, I can wholeheartedly recommend you get a Raspberry Pi. I just got the StellarMate OS, but also have Astroberry. Last week I've been learning and configuring StellarMate, but when I got tired of it, I just switched the micro-SD card and could go imaging with my working astroberry distro. The switch didn't take more than 5 minutes. I did this two nights in a row.
  22. Last week I purchased the StellarMate OS and app, and the last few days I've been playing with it. Despite 6 years experience with INDI and Kstars, I still had some trouble configuring everything. The StellarMate app isn't always easy to navigate. On my Samsung Galaxy Tablet, some of the buttons in the app were unresponsive at times. Especially when clicking on a number field to open the numeric keyboard, the app was slow. And the configuration of optical trains assumed ST4 guiding by default (which I don't use). It took me a while to figure that out. And I still haven't come to grips with autofocusing, but that may in part be due to poor sky conditions. Earlier this week I experienced how easy it is to switch capture software with a Raspberry Pi and INDI. We've had a few clear nights, and I started configuring StellarMate, but after a while I just swapped SD-cards in the Raspberry Pi and did my imaging in Astroberry. So easy! Here it is: first light. Earlier this evening we had another gap in the clouds and I pointed my telescope at Messier 34, which was conveniently placed in the South. I got 55 minutes of data before the clouds moved in, 4 x 5 minutes per filter. I had to discard one green sub due to star trails. Processed in PixInsight (without any noise reduction). There are even a few small galaxies in the background.
  23. Probably not, since the power plug has a standard pin = +, barrel = - configuration. As others wrote, contact them first. But if they are reluctant to deal with it, it should be easy to assess the damage. The electronics is probably just behind a cover held in place by a few screws. Unless the printed circuit board is fried, only some components will need replacing.
  24. Sad to see you leave dso imaging. I read your post where you informed us and explained your situation and I totally understand.
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