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I have just received mine this morning with the same problem, I thought it maybe residue from the felt on the rings but it's definitely an imprint, as if the laquer was tacky when they were closed, if the marks remained under the rings it wouldn't bother me so much but in my case the tube will have to be moved for imaging.

Sorry Dweller25 i just noticed your last comment, tilt adapter it is...👍

Thanks for the information guys, i dont have a problem collimating the scope without laser devices, i did try one previously but had no luck with this scope, my question is could the re-alignment of the focuser be done with the tilt adapter after all the extension rings are fitted? once the focuser is fitted it will not be rotated so is in a fixed point. So basicly after collimating the scope and focuser with no extension rings attached i end up with this.. After fitting all four of the extension rings and focuser i end up with this... So could this be brought back to image one using the tilt adapter? Thanks for your patience guys..

Hello All I have a couple of questions i cant seem to find an answer too while collimating my scope and i am looking for advice on which/what route to take, please bear with me while i try to explain 😐 I have the StellaLyra F12 CC which comes with 50mm + 25mm + 25mm extension rings, when im collimatiing i use a cheshire and bare scope and focuser i.e no extension rings and i seem to get this looking spot on but when the 4 extensions are added as i need with the planetary camera the collimation is out with the cheshire, while the eyepiece mark was bang centre of the secondary centre ring beforehand it is now half way out of that ring, im pretty sure its the focuser not seating right after the rings are added, so first question is would a tilt adapter which i do now have fitted be the solution to this "shift"? maybe after doing the first collimation then add the rings would i be able to bring that eyepiece mark back again using the tilt adapter?, i have never used a tilt adapter before so not sure of the actual process. Also there is a lot of movement in the eyepiece holder when the thumbscrews are tightened up on the cameras 2 inch adapter, unfortunately the standard focuser does not have T2 threads or any for that matter for the camera to be directly attached so can anyone recommend a solution to this without forking out on a new focuser? im sure that would have to be an option sooner or later and told the baader is probably the way to go.. Thanks for reading and if i have not explained myself please shout out..

Nice one mate, glad you got it sorted 👍

Alright Andy, im not sure what contact you used but i had the same problem a couple of weeks back and contacted Noel on Support@prodigitalsoftware.com who just added a load more activations, he replied overnight so can only assume he is away if you used the same contact?

Only two hours worth from Friday night, i missed the clear run last week due to work so a measly effort to whats being posted lately but here goes... Skywatcher 80ED ZWO1600MM 40 mins each filter

One 25mm extension removed, now things look better ,had a go with the camera the other day and forgot i left it on, i can see the white ring when the mirror is out of line, bringing it back in line to even things out makes the white ring disappear, its either a very very fine white line or has someting to do with the lighting so will get some daylight on it to try and improve it, at least i can see it now...thanks again John 👍

Just read your last post.....i think ive left an extension tube on..🙃 will get back to you

In your pdf attachment it says..Optical Axis (Primary Mirror) Adjustment The optical axis is denoted by a thin outline of light (white) around the perimeter of the view through the collimation cap or Cheshire eyepiece (Figure 8A) But i cannot see that outline of white light where it says Optical axis unless im missing something i cannot see it in that 1st image either...Thanks John

I did read that but was confused with the optical axis ring, i can only see what is in the above image except for that edge of primary baffle obviously

Hello All After coming to the conclusion my scope needed collimating as the focus was just a tad out im needing a bit of advice on the primary mirror collimation, im using a cheshire and a Rigel Align but cannot see the edge of the primary baffle no matter what i do, eyes are not what they once were and struggling to see this without 100X magnification🙂 overall the secondary baffle looks in the centre of the view and all else looks concentric to me but without being able to see that primary edge im just not so sure, so the question is would it show if i tried to get more light down the tube? does it have to be way off to even see it? or any other way that you guys might suggest?, i have been trying the Deep Sky Instruments way just to get my head around it and included a snippet to try and explain a bit more clearer what i mean, thanks for any help

Messaged..👍

The last of the Samyang for this year, im itching to try a new focuser on the 80ED so its getting packed up, 3 hours worth from the weekend, usual PS process..Thanks

Thanks guys, much appreciated, plenty to think about 👍 Are any of you using the zwo oag with a skywatcher 80ed at all? I remember trying the V1 when it came out but the threads on the 0.85 reducer used to hit the prism and bend it back slightly so returned, hence why I never bothered again, just wondering if anything changed on the V2 , would be a bonus to use it for both scopes.

I didnt know they did reducers for these scopes, shows how much i know, i think that is the route to take to be honest vlaiv, saves a lot of trouble i think, a question to FLO to see if there are there any other compatibles for this at all, im having trouble find it overe here..Thanks for your time though vlaiv i think this problem is solved 👍

Thanks for that vlaiv, much appreciated, some head scratching to do i think, do you think it would be easier/better using an OAG instead of the guide scope? or would it be just too much with the 290?, i may just stick to luna and planets after all thats what it was purchased for, and thanks again

Afternoon Guys, its the StellaLyra 8" f/12 M-LRS Classical, focal length is 2436 i believe on a skywatcher AZ_EQ6 GT, camera is a ZWO 1600MM, i tried it on a galaxy at the beginning of the year but only for 10 minutes on the Pinwheel before i swapped over and would like to get the best out of it for some more..the image below although not very good was with the evoguide. https://flic.kr/p/2mQ8oCG

Im looking to swap over my Samyang 135 setup to my Stellalyra F12 and have a question on guideing, the samyang set up has a ZWO mini guide scope on it and was wondering if the same guide can be used on the F12? it will be using an older ZWO290 as the guide camera so i dont suppose it would be a problem, i was using an evoguide and the same ZWO290 with the F12 last year but looking to lighten things up a bit.. Cheers

My first image of jupiter this year with Ganymede transit i believe..still need to work on processing though 🙃 Forgot to add the info, StellaLyra 8" CC, ZWO224MC, best 10% of 5000 frames, Taken on July 17th around 2AM, SharpCap/AS3/Registax.

It looks pretty much the same as mine did Peter and i have round about the same setup as you, try aligning the rgb in registax, i think its the blue that was a bit different , on mine at least

Christmas Eve was my last image, in fact the only one for 3 months, an hour and a half on the North American Nebula while messing with a new stepper for focusing. ZWO1600MM, Samyang 135MM, unity gain, 6 subs @ 5 mins each, Ha,SII,OIII

Looking at the manual it would suggest a W47 filter or the use of another colour camera, is that what you are referring to Dave? Kokatha man i was using a 290MC before it died and was looking to replace with a mono as i already have a filter wheel i use with a 1600MM for deep, although i think it would be easier to replace with another colour 😀 Thanks for the advice

I had the same problem, ended up filing it down for it to receive a skywatcher evoguide, there was a sort of bulge around the centre of the runner so only went in half way..

My ZWO colour has bit the dust so was going to take advantage of the black Friday deal on the ZWO 120MM, just wondering if I still need the ADC with the ZWO mono and RGB Filters or do the filters override the need of an ADC?.. Thanks