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ChrisNiceButDim

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About ChrisNiceButDim

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    London
  1. It runs on 4 AAs Yes I suspected that so put brand new ones in. Still the same fault. :-/
  2. Many thanks I will try this although as far as I can tell flashing LED's indicate an error. I've even opened it up to see if I can detect any change of rate during pulses but can't. Like you say though maybe the movements are very small. I have increased the guide steps to over 2500 though and still no star moment.
  3. Has anyone managed to successfully guide a Star Adventurer? I tried earlier tonight. Callibration fails due to lack of star movement so I thought I'd test the ST4 connection. When I try manual guide through PHD2 the LEDs blink as soon as I send an East or West pulse to the mount and there's no sign of any movement. This happens even when there is nothing on the mount. I assumed this flashing was to show it was receiving commands but there's no mention in any of the documentation that this should be the case. Blinking LEDs indicate either a firmware update is taking place or a motor error caused by excessive load for example. The mounts works well unguided so I'm wondering if anyone else has had experience of guiding or blinking LEDs. Thanks in advance for any opinions or advice.
  4. Managed to do a little more testing the other night after the scope was re-collimated. Do you think there has been any improvement? Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
  5. Oh good. :-) I sometimes forget things don't always come across as you intend in writing. I just hope we get a couple of clear nights before October as I want it tested and running properly for the DDA star party on the IOW. :-)Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
  6. Camera back and checked out ok and ready for testing. Thanks for the calculations you did on the other thread Steve 1962 it seems I was about 1.5mm out so what with this correction and the tweaked collimation I hope it should be ok now. :-) Sorry I hope you didn't think I was being Sarcastic ollypenrice. I didn't know about the adjustment screws you mentioned but I've checked them and they'll certainly come in useful. Let the testing begin. :-) Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
  7. Ahhh, useful indeed. Why would I know such a thing, I only own it. :-) I've sent they whole lot back to Atik but I'll definitely check that when it comes back. If that's all good and I still have tilt it's go to be focuser slop. Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  8. Ah ok. I'll do a bit of research to see if there's a way to calculate it. Got mine set to 0 (default) at the mo. Cool, I guess if it's not broken. :-) Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  9. Hey Steve, Oh that's great. You have an identical setup. I have the lakeside too. How did you calculate the backlash as I assume motors and focuser will vary slightly? I managed V curves one session but then the focus graph was all over the shop. Think it was down to a poor physical connection so I've tightened, it all up with a beefier alan key. What made you decide not to go with the temperature compensation? Did your setup behave in the end? Kind regards Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  10. Hi Olly, no need to apologise. I think I'm frustrated that I'm disappointed if that makes sense. I'd had problems with a previous scope which I bought secondhand and hoped, being new, that this would be plain sailing and just work considering the manufacturer not to mention the outlay. ​The thing is I can immediately see the potential in the optics and I'm sure I'll get it working perfectly eventually, it's frustrating to have to adjust focuser slop and collimation with a scope straight from the factory. From what I've heard I think you maybe right about Optique Unterlinden. I'm sure Tak Collimate their scopes in Japan to a very high tolerance before sending out but they are re-checked by Optique Unterlinden which may be the weak link. Steve Collingwood who re-collimated my optics has had to do a few Tak's that were supposedly checked by them. Yes The reversing tilt was baffling me but then I'm suspicious the mount may have performed a flip at this point which would explain the data if there were some focus slop right? I'm actually sending the Atik with filterwheel back to Atik to be cleaned and tested just to make sure no sensor tilt is present as well as the filterwheel alignment inside the housing. The Filterwheel is an Atik EFW2. I don't quite follow you about pulling the attachment up tight on the cone? Also I'm not sure of the difference between mounted and unmounted? They are Astronomic 1.25" threaded. Kind regards Chris p.s. Only 30 years hey. The reducer has been out a while so only another 25 or so to wait then.
  11. Hi Steve, Sorry, I've only just picked up your last couple of messages. I haven't worked out how to get stargazers lounge to actually notify me of new messages on my own thread yet. ;-) I think you're fully entitled to a rant. The coupling to that reducer is pathetic and it seems the majority of us that have used this reducer have had it come loose and/or misalignment problems. It's about time Tak pulled their fingers out of there arses and sent out a replacement ring with more than 3 grub screws free of charge. Even my baader click lock has 6 to secure a similar adapter. I suspect I also have slop in my focuser (might need to ask you about adjusting that in the future) as I have the feeling that in between those non reduced subs from blank filter to HA my mount performed a flip. Would explain the data. It also turns out my collimation was out a fraction and at f3.6 that fraction is enough. The guy that did my collimation has been to the Tak Europe where they do their own testing and said their method for testing fell far short of his own testing procedure. Can't remember exactly how he put it but something like using a 60 watt light bulb as a collimation light source. ;-) Also he's found had to work on a few out of collimation. To be honest I'm a little disappointed considering how much this setup has cost me, I just want to get passed the stage of [removed word] about testing and finding faults and actually do some imaging. So I counteract your rant with my own. Looks like you've got it bang on now though mate, couldn't really improve on that. The image looks spot on too. :-) Glad you got your SGP sorted too. I must admit I found the previous version quite unstable but I've not had any problems recently, famous last words. Think I'll be sending Tak an email in the next week or so. What motor focuser do you use? Do you use the temperature compensation within SGP? Kind regards Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  12. Hi Ian, You'll need a T adapter and nosepiece. Is your camera a dslr? Also what are you hoping to image? Kind regards Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  13. Hi Steve, Just when I thought you'd confused me enough you go and excel yourself. ;-) So I recon if the scope seems fine with the reducer and still fine when rotated 180 and seeing as the reducer is attached to the CAA and rotates with it, it either means the scope and focuser alignment are fine or that two errors are cancelling each other out. I am going to be positive and hope for the former but I'm going to get the scope and camera bench tested for peace of mind. I think Olly Penrice's suggestion of realigning the reducer has got rid of the majority of the error though. :-) Also it seems the filter is introducing some tilt so I'll have that looked at too. Can't do any harm and it's got to be the right time of year to do it. Thanks again for all your help with CCDI and I'll let you know how it goes. Now to the next issue of play within the lakeside motor focus coupling but that's another post. ;-) How are you getting on with your reducer? Kind regards Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  14. Hi Steve, I can't thank you enough for testing those subs. The plot thickens. The files are definitely labeled correctly, I've double and triple checked. I wonder. The common factor in all the images that showed tilt is the HA filter. Could it be possible the filterwheel is not completely flat within its housing? Bit of a long shot I know. Well seeing as there is slight tilt at f5 I think I'll get Ian King to put it on a bench and test focuser alignment and collimation and also get the Atik cleaned and checked for tilt along with the filterwheel. Just for peace of mind. So your own testing begins. :-) Good luck. I'll be interested to find out how you get on. Seeing as re-seating the pathetic reducer adjuster has resulted in a big reduction in tilt in my setup and Olly Penrice and many others have experienced the same as well as having the thing work loose I'd do that before you even put it on the scope. I know others have drilled and tapped more holes to make the fixing more secure with additional grub screws. Kind regards Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
  15. Hi Olly, Hope you're well. It seems realigning the adjustment ring on the reducer didn't do the trick (that would be far too easy). If it turns out that the field is flat at f5 and the reducer itself is introducing the tilt even though the adjuster is square do you think it's worth getting it swapped over? Also, do you think if the spacing to reducer wasn't spot on it might produce a similar effect? Kind regards Chris Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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