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Steve Wright

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About Steve Wright

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    Letchworth, Hertfordshire
  1. Stayed out until around 4:00am collecting images of the comet and upon reviewing the images the next day I noticed the movement of the comet against the background stars and decided to have a go at making an animation, file too large to upload here but have uploaded here http://youtu.be/9suP29naCfQ, Quite pleased with the result for my first attempt. Made from 15 x 30 sec stills as they were the only ones that were in best focus and in sequence as it took me ages fiddling to achieve what I thought was best focus, Skywatcher Explorer 200P on Super Polaris unguided mount, Nikon D3100 DSLR at pri
  2. Fantastic best I've ever seen congratulations
  3. I managed to capture at least one Persied on Monday night, after looking at the resulting image I wondered if the colours in the flare trial are indicative of the composition of the Comet material, anyone have any knowledge on the subject i.e. what causes greens and reds to be seen.
  4. 69 x 30 sec subs, ISO800, forgot to take darks before I packed in for the night but quite pleased with the result anyway, stacked in DSS and processed in PS
  5. 15 x 30 sec frames ISO800 with 15 darks using 8" Skywatcher reflector, super polaris mount, Nikon D3100, stacked in DSS and tweaked levels and curves in PS.
  6. I have an old Vixen GP Polaris mount which I am guessing is about 30+ years old, what I am wondering is if it would improve its smoothness when tracking for imaging if I apply new lubrication to the gearing from the RA motor drtive, if anyone has any experience I would be most gratefull, otherwise I might leave it alone?
  7. 30 sec subs @ISO800, stacked in DSS and tweaked levels in PS, not bad for unguided on a 30+ year old Vixen Polaris mount
  8. It took me a while to find the dumbell but once I did the mount was tracking well and I fiddled for ages with focus and finally settled down with what I thought was the best focus I could see through the viewfinder of my Nikon D3100 using prime focus.. Stacked 29 x 30 sec lights and 10 darks @ ISO800 in DSS, tweaked with levels and curves in Photoshop and zoomed and cropped to resize the object , I am quite happy with the result but still not sure what is wrong as the stars look out of shape and I am not sure if its the result of poor focus, collimation or bad optics or something else I am not
  9. I have never tried this before but am quite pleased with the result for the effort, I lost concerntration with the timings towards the end as you can see but I like to think it adds to it by showing the stars movements, 73 x 30 sec images stacked through Startrails.de
  10. I Couldn't resist the clear skies tonight and even though it was time to bed I opened up the dome and set the scope on the orion nebula to see what I could achieve, took several different length exposures but finally settled on 30 sec subs and managed about 20 before I decided to close up and view the results, I'm quite pleased with the result so far, Deep Sky Stacker is taking to long to stack the 20 images but thought I would share a single image before heading up the wooden hill. You might be able to make out two of what I think were satellites at the bottom of the shot, as they passed acro
  11. Managed to capture the Moon this evening before it got too low from my back garden, shot was taken with my Nikon D3100 at prime focus through a 102mm Maksutov Cassegrain 2 sec sub @ ISO200.
  12. Made a collimation cap and with a little fidlling I think I have it set up much better, first views of Jupiter was good tonight showing four Moons and a little structure, went for the webcam but beaten by the clouds so have packed up now but an encouraging start, thanks for the advise, looking forward to Kelling now.
  13. Hi Merlin66, Thanks for your reply, I have heard of using a 35mm film pot with a hole drilled in it, is this the method? The trouble is I am not sure what size hole or how to tell when everything is concentric, do you have to be able to see the primary mirror clips around the edge and what position is it best to have the focuser in, right in or right out, does that make a difference? Been frustrating me for ages this issue, thought I had it spot on and Jupiter looked like an egg even 'in focus', I am beginning to think there is something wrong with my eyes now that I am approaching my 50th ye
  14. I have an old Astrosystems 10" reflector, I made the mistake of taking out the mirror cell to clean it and ever since I have not been able to get the collimation right. I have a laser collimator which I have made a bench V frame for so that the Collimator itself could be checked and collimated, the trouble I seem to have is that there is sufficiant movement in the focuser tube to alter the return beam of the collimator and I am unable to decide when collimation is spot on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreicated as I am not able to use the scope at the moment and am restricted to my porta
  15. Well done thats more than I got, I saw a window in the clouds and just as I finished setting up and polar aligning, went in to get the camera and the clouds rolled in and nows it pouring down with rain....typical, wondering now, do I wait up a bit longer or give up and go to bed. crazy weather
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