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About Shahd

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  1. I processed the data from last night, and it worked! thanks a lot
  2. The distance is roughly 1.5 cm, which means it's either the L filter or the wheel that moved. Anyway, I tightened and changed the L filter position and will take new images and flats tonight. Hope this resolves the issue Thanks a lot!
  3. I take them using SGPro flat wizard, t-shirt and an iPad.
  4. I forgot to mention that this issue is only seen with the Lum filter, flats correct RGB filters perfectly.
  5. Hi I have this issue where flats correct some of the background but make dust donuts look much worse. The problem is exaggerated by applying the DBE (and ABE) process in Pixinsight. Here's the autostretched, calibrated Lum before and after DBE: and here's the stacked Lum without flats, also before and after DBE: I tried preprocessing the images in both Nebulosity and Pixinsight with the same results. I usually take flats at the end of each imaging session so I don't think it's a focusing issue. I believe that they were properly exposed (1.17s, 21000 ADU). The master flat looks like this (second image is autostretched): What do you think the problem is? * camera is ASI1600MM-Cool.
  6. I don't know why I get these ugly halos around some of the stars whenever I combine the L with RGB photo in pixinsight. I'm still working on a way to get rid of them, but I'd like to know what caused them in the first place to avoid it, if possible.
  7. Mine is connected to USB and power cord but the fan is not working. I installed the latest ZWO driver and it's still not working. Even in ASCOM camera settings there is nothing to control the fan.
  8. Yes, I got the ZWO cooler power cable with the camera (12V, 5A). And yes, SGPro allows me to read the camera's temperature and it is cooling. The problem is that it doesn't maintain the temperature for long. When should the fan work? I just checked and it is not working at 50%.
  9. Good day, I've recently got the ZWO ASI1600 MM-Cool and I noticed something odd with the camera cooler. It cools down to the target temperature but cannot maintain it for more than a few minutes (using 100% of the power). When I touched the camera's body it was very hot. I tried to change the target temperature to -10, -20 C, with no change. The ambient temperature is about 30-26 C. What do you think is wrong? Thanks.
  10. 1. I'll give plate solving a go. I don't think SGPro works on Mac but ekos/Kstar does. 2. The focuser does have a scale printed on it, but whenever I add an extension tube or a spacer (still adjusting the back focus of the field flattener) the focus point changes and I have to start all over again. Thanks Ian and Wim.
  11. Hello, I have a few questions 1. How to get accurate GoTo results (Orion Atlas EQ-G)? I've read somewhere that polar alignment is important; I always do a rough polar alignment and get different results each time I begin star alignment. Will controlling the mount through a PC give better results? 2. I've recently upgraded my DSLR camera to the ZWO ASI1600 MM-COOL; using a CCD is much harder than I thought. At first I tried to star align using the camera to get the stars centered on the chip, but nothing appeared on the screen. I gave up, removed the camera and used an eyepiece instead. I had to wait for the moon to rise to learn that the camera was waaay out of focus, that's why I couldn't see anything on the computer screen. So my question is, is there an easier way to focus in moonless nights? and does removing the camera and replacing it with an eyepiece affect the accuracy of alignment (since the balance has changed)? Thanks.
  12. Yes, Orion Atlas EQ-G mount; Orion StarShoot AutoGuider camera; and PHD Guiding. I looked the Skywatcher Explorer 130P-DS up as Adam J suggested and it seems like a good choice (FL 650mm; f/5). I could stretch my budget to 3000$-3500$, but I don't want to waste my money on bad choices. In your opinion, what's the best combination (scope and camera)? putting in mind that I'll have to get a filter wheel and Ha filter to begin with for narrowband imaging. Thanks.
  13. Yes Celsius, I live in the middle east.
  14. So my scope is the main problem here. I want to image DSOs, I can barely fit the Orion nebula with my current equipment (Canon EOS 1100D). I can track for up to 10 minutes without problems (Orion Atlas EQ-G mount), never tried longer than that. My summer night time temperatures are almost always above 40 degrees. I guess the camera is not the only issue here... my scope is another problem. Wow, I don't think my mount is capable of tracking accurately for that long (Orion Atlas EQ-G mount + Orion StarShoot AutoGuider and PHD2). Well, I guess my next move is to upgrade both, scope and camera. Thanks guys.
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