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Everything posted by rorymultistorey

  1. Very good post thank you. I tried to show people what space objects looked like through x7 binos in this video. I used a 135mm lens and a apc sized sensor to get the same field of view as the binos but found that the experience with your eyes is quite different to what the camera records due to the human eye's incredible dynamic range.
  2. Is it possible to look at bricks satisfactorily without the tripod?
  3. Looks good. Mafrotto Fluid head nice. I bought the cheaper Neewer version with a heavy duty fluid head which has broken. The plastic legs were too flimsy. I have a monopod so will absolutely use that with my 7x50 binos. Great idea. Seems the Helios Binoculars are popular. I'm guessing there is not a huge amount of difference between the lightquest and the apollo versions? Interesting that you went for 15x version. I believe there is a lower magnification version. I'm starting to think that binos are really best at looking at star clusters and bright objects rather than dim nebula and maybe this is why observers prefer to have the higher magnification models rather than the widefield light bucket versions. Anyways thx for the reply
  4. Yeh thx for that. I think I have a tripod which would work. Binos look good too. Why did you go for the x22 rather than the x15s? Cheers rory
  5. Yeh it was getting a bit wobbly. I'd be really interested in getting some bigger bins with a tripod. Will a camera tripod do? And do you have any recommendations in the 500quid range?
  6. Hi all, I've made a video about my experience looking through binoculars at deep space objects. I am NOT an observer. So I expect I got a few things wrong. Particularly the fact that it was impossible to film in complete darkness. I'd be really interested to hear whether I was way off the mark or not. And what other deep space objects are good to look at through a small pair of binos. Many thx in advance.
  7. Just wanted to thank James for this post. I have purchase a budget AVX mount and spent last night with all the same issues. I'm so glad I came across this post before wasting more time buying new cables etc... I will test it today and see how it goes
  8. Secondary is suprisingly big. And the tube is made out of some kind of reinforced cardboard... I think. Looks eminently cuttable. I think this lovely scope is getting the chop
  9. Pics of the secondary assembly ( i hope) Doing this from my phone so bear with... Please note how thin the spider vanes are. They are made from ribbon, maybe rubber ribbon whoose tension can be tightened. How the the secondary only has an up down adjustment. And How the secondary can be rotated around a central shaft. Far better than the 3 screws which easily lead to miscollimation if your only collimating with a laser.
  10. Many thx chaps... Most enlightening BTW I used to go to a sailing club near Pershore when I was a kid. So 1/10 wave is not necessarily going to help me for astrophotography. Squaring the camera is more important. I happen to have an orion optics OC1 (I think) 2 inch focuser which I'm going to fix onto the tube. I will be using a full frame canon 5d mark ii with a 0.9 x skywatcher coma corrector for imaging. Having digested the above advice I think will use the brighter, newer, faster, synta f5 mirror AND controversially I will cut the end off the tube in order to reach focus. I mean how hard can it be (famous last words). [Maybe I should see if someone is keen to buy it before getting the saw out. Does seem a shame to carve up such a well made scope.] Also still curious to know whether high quality mirrors make any noticeable difference in DSO astrophotograhy or whether the only real benefit is planetary.
  11. So I picked up a classic... a 1970's - 80's edmund optics f6 150mm newtonian... ... like this one but mine has a different mount. It was cheap. Very good condition. The focuser is pants. The mechanics of the secondary holder is (IMHO) brilliant and apparently the primary is 1/10th wave. But its f6 and I trhink I'd rather swap it out for a faster synta f5 mirror. . The thing is its a one shot job bc to make the f5 mirror work I will have to saw off a good few cm from the barrel of the scope. So the question is: Is a high quality f6 mirror better than a faster synta f5 mirror for wide deep space astrophotograhy? All comments gratefully received.
  12. I have the 07870 borg super reducer with a very similar scope - a 60mm f5.9 tak . It works very well. Let me know if your still having trouble and i can share my settings. Also let me kniw if your thinking as selling as I'd be interested. Many thx Rory
  13. yeh I'll be working on it too... Just come from London to the dark skies of Devon for my hols but fear the clouds won't allow much astro fiddling. Let me know if you find a solution. Many thx Rory
  14. i've just come in from a night of imaging and had exactly the same thing... Did you figure is out. I'm guessing tilt either on my filter or the lens is dropping slighly in the adapter.
  15. thx whistlin bob... ... it was 4 x 1hr ha with the FS60 + atik and 6 x 30 mins with the esprite + OSC camera fitted with a bi-colour filter... there were more subs but most were pants due to clouds and/or other cock ups ?
  16. I was bad this year and bought myself an esprit 80 ed and an ASI 071 OSC camera which I've paired with my little tak FS60 and atik 383L+ for some dual scope imaging. The theory is with all the crappy weather in the UK and with so little time for geeking out having two scopes means I can get everything done in half the time. That's the theory... in practice it means twice as much goes wrong BUT... I did get everything working (ish) and managed to bag some one and a half nights of data in Jan and the begging of feb from my roof in London zone 2. I processed in APP and GIMP which seems to be better than photoshop version 2 which I have been using and its FREE.... yay! FYI I have a youtube channel : astrobiscuit
  17. Merry Christmas tree nebula everybody! Some (achem) of the data was captured in January but come on people... it was wall to wall clouds in Jan. Surely a little bit of February data can creep in too... (alright alright I know , I'm disqualified) Shot with my xmas present to myself : Skywatcher esprite 80mm bought from flo and taken from my roof in London. btw if anyone has any tips on star colours for narrow banders like myself then I'd love to hear them.
  18. good idea... but my computer is pretty slow and startools is quite RAM and processor power hungry. I'm gonna have to sort this out I guess after all I've spent a lot on scopes and stuff, probably time to spend a lot on computers and software too!!!
  19. thx roland. I use gimp to remove the noise and it is a bit of a struggle with that software. Not sure im ready to shell out on pix... But maybe the time has come. Fyi I'm looking to buy a 135 samyang.
  20. looks like a great scope... I can't help myself I have to post the second outing with my telyt lens... its much better than the first but please bear in mind its shot from central london. click here for the link thx rory
  21. Ahh, you've got a ccd sorry thought you had a nikon camera. At least that makes things easier. I wonder if there is a leica to t2 adapter?
  22. Hi John, I bought an adapter for my canon and even though the adapter is thin I can't reach focus without the cls filter in my astro modded 600d. I had similar problems with another lens I used and ended up shoving a uv filter between the lens and the sensor - I think it was a 37mm one which happened to fit pretty snuggly. Obviously this only works when the focus is very nearly there... you need to check the flange distance of the nikon and the Leica. If the Leica is a couple of mm longer than the Nikon then you're in business. I've got a feeling the nikon has quite a long flange distance which is potentially bad... here is the adapter I bought for my canon. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leica-R-lens-to-Canon-EOS-EF-Mount-550D-DSLR-Camera-Adapter-Ring-LEICA-R-EOS/272574259217?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 thx rory
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