Bizibilder

Please read the instructions in the first post of this thread and put each of your entries in a new topic.  Pictures posted in this thread will not be judged.

I found this link:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Earth-Moon-Sun-Orbiter-or-Build-a-Model-Solar-System-Orrery-Spares-Kits-Units-/121803476042   But have absolutely no idea if he could help !!  Total disclaimer from me on this one 

Looking really god - straight and level as well.

Now is the time to make dead sure it really is all dead square and level - Just stand some heavy weights (or helpers!) on the base frame to make sure it is firmly on the base blocks and then go round with a spirit level - if you have a long straight edge (plank?) check the diagonals as well.  You can use bits of DPC/Pond liner to shim everything to perfection.  Well worth spending an hour or so getting it right at this point in the build!

You could have a browse here:  http://listoffreeware.com/list-best-free-video-editors/  I have no idea if any of them are any good!!  

If you are embedding threaded bar into the pier the easiest way to ensure it is solid is to put a 90° bend in it (you may have to heat it to red to be able to do this - easy enough if you have a blow torch) at the "embedded end" as well as running a few nuts onto it - these act as locks within the concrete.  When you have run the nuts on the threaded rod give them a good "bash" with a centre punch - or cold chisel etc - in order to damage the thread so that they cannot move on the thread.

I didn't bother with rebar for my pier block but I did "hollow out" a couple of inches deep all round the base of the hole to that the bottom of the block was "anchored".  i have no idea if this was a good idea!!!!    However my pier is solid enough after about eight years in the ground.

That's good going for keeping things "square" - well done.  When you do the two additional blocks make sure that they come out equal or lower in height than the others - definitely not higher or you will discover that you have re-invented the see-saw!!    Packing the central block if required will be far easier.  Onwards and upwards 

Looking good - A week should be more than enough for ensuring they are fully "set".

Looks like this is going to be a good build!

May I suggest that, if those four corner blocks are your "master" blocks, that you take some considerable time to get them dead level in every direction as well as dead level with each other.  Also that you firmly secure them to the ground with something like 3x2 timber driven in about a foot or so - you will be surprised just how heavy a block of wet concrete is and how much of a "mind of its own" it has!

Time spent at this stage is time well spent as it will make the rest of your build far simpler and save considerable time in the long run, knowing the base is set precisely.

Good use of a 3D printer!!

I use a hand winch bolted to the observatory wall.  Works well and is independent of a power supply - which is handy for closing the roof after unplugging the mains cable!

I use this system with my EQ5 and steel pillar:  Plastic dustbin inverted followed by two "garden furniture" waterproof covers (get the De lux ones that will survive in sunshine not the green ones that disintegrate after a year or so outside!).  My set up has been in use for several years and, apart from buying the more reliable covers, works very well.:

The GIF above shows the general idea (with the original not-so-good green cover).  It takes about 10mins to set up the scope/computer etc and start imaging.  All the bits are from either Tesco or Homebase.

Martin-Devon - You have a PM 

Can you not put your bolts and hasp/padlocks on the inside of the building?  Once the door is locked behind you no one can see your "security" and have no idea how good/bad it is.

This looks like a very good build and I've been following closely -well done, it will be well worth the work and expense.

The problem with "split" roofs is getting the join to be watertight - hence most folk use the sliding whole roof solution.  That's not to say it can't be done - just that it can be tricky to get it to work properly.  There are designs for fully sliding roofs where the support structure can fold away leaving a simple "shed" in the garden.

Yes that will be enough film - You can make a "small aparture" filter for your 400mm lens (maybe 100-120mm will be big enough).  Make a film holder for both lenses of your binoculars to prevent any risk of an accident.

I did a quick Google and it seems that there are Windows 10 drivers for the SPC900 available for download.

If it is a complete scope and mount in original condition then I would suggest keeping it together.  If re- aluminised and coated the optics would be fine and a good clean and tidy of the mount would result in a perfectly good and usable scope and mount.  It would not get a premium price simply for being old but to the right person it would be a very useful and usable set-up.

Hello John and welcome to SGL!!

I've not often seen this planetary nebula imaged - it's a bit small but interesting none the less.  In Taurus and about 600ly away, Discovered by Herschel in 1790.

ED120APO, EQ6 EQMOD, ST80 PHD guiding

5min subs, modded Canon 1000D

processed in DSS and PS.

24 x 5mins lights = 2hrs exposure

24 bias and 24flats.

Full size crop and full frame - as always needs more data!!:

Some folk used to use the hemispherically shaped tops of grain silo's as observatories.  However that was when I was younger (and plastic hadn't been invented yet  ).  Looks like a good idea as long as the cost is reasonable.

You can get a Yoga mat - about 3mm thick that may well be suitable (I use it for Dew shields as well!)

If you are banned then any posts you have made whilst a member remain in the forum (except the one(s) that got you banned in the first place   ! ) - as stated in the Code of Conduct.  If they were removed, threads containing posts from the banned member would most likely make no sense at all.

Both phrases mean the same thing - take your pick  .

I simply drilled and tapped a third thumbscrew hole - Three screws works much better than two ever did!