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Posts posted by Bizibilder

  1. It depends on the set-up you have.  For example the EQ6 could connect to the battery with one of these: Power cable via one of these wired directly to the battery: socket .  You will need similar connections for the other devices You can buy multiple socket type connectors..  If you search the DIY section of the forum you will find some very good "power supply boxes"  - some very sophisticated indeed!  Whilst mentioning cigarette type sockets these are simple to set up and use but are prone to connection problems especially if they get wet - It depends on your skill levels but you can make up your own wiring with much better connectors and put the whole lot in a waterproof container to prevent dew problems.

  2. I bought mine from these people:  Tayna batteries and a charger like one of these:  Charger conditioner.  Both seem to have gone up in price since I bought mine 🙁 !  However they are a good buy.  The charger/conditioner allows you to simply leave the battery and charger plugged in all the time (when not using it) and it keeps the battery in god "health".  I always brought the battery indoors (the garage - always above freezing as it is attached to the house) between sessions.  I used my own set-up for 4-5 years before getting a mains supply installed in my observatory.  In the end I sold both battery and charger for about half what I paid for them so overall not too bad!

  3. Its the Amps that will tell you what you need to know (obviously you also need to operate at the correct voltage - most gear is 12v) - if something uses 3A then in 1 hour it will use 3Ah (Three amp-hours).  Your EQ6 uses a max of 4A when in fast slew and much less when tracking and your camera uses, say 5A.  these two therefore will consume a maximum of 4 + 5 = 9 Ah.  You have a 14Ah battery so that will last about 1.5 hours when it will be flat! - not such a good idea!  I always work on never letting the total use consume more than half the available battery power.  

    When I did use a battery set-up I had a 105 Ah leisure battery (the sort used for caravans and boats) and this ran my own EQ6, camera(s) and laptop easily for 5-6 hours.

    By the way for a laptop try using an "in car" charger to run it from your battery - they work well.  Don't bother with inverters etc as they are not 100% efficient and therefore just add to the wasted energy from your battery.

    Hope that helps and gets you going.

  4. Trevor - nice image!  Good to see another ED120 user.

    Peter - Your image is well out of focus as you say - the "craters" are dust bunnies - i.e. dust somewhere within the optics, each tiny piece showing as a smudge as it is out of focus.

  5. Slight change to my processing for these - using ImPPG for deconvolution - otherwise as before.  Each pane is 200/1000frames, stacked in AS3!, sharpened with ImPPG and finished in Photoshop - (just the assembly of the panes, tidying up the edges and a tweak of curves plus a little sharpening).  This is a monochrome image:






    • Like 4
  6. If you use your DSLR first make sure the video produced is in a format that stacking software can cope with - some formats wont work.  However if you can go that route it is easier in many respects.

    P.S. I forgot - if taking single frames use RAW if you can - JPEG is "lossy" and can cause a lower quality final image.  Having said that I usually stack DSLR JPEG's if I use that camera, although normally I now use a specialist video camera.

  7. I would suggest taking as many single shots as you feel like with the camera and scope - i usually take about 120-150.  Then stack them and process.  This will give you a far better image than any single shot.  Keep the ISO reasonable or the image may become noisy,  A shutter speed around 1/40 sec or shorter should be OK.  Don't worry about centering the image as freeware called PIPP will do that for you and crop the image as well - do this before stacking by the way.

    • Like 1
  8. A triplet from last night - 3 pane mono and 3x3 pane RGB taken using the ED120APO, ASi120mm camera, each pane 200 from 1000 frames.  Processed in AS3, AstraImage (for deconvolution) and PS to finish.  Also an image taken with a DSLR body (Canon 1100D) - a stack of 40 from 200 frames taken processed in PIPP for alignment, AS3 for stacking and PS to finish.  (Please click for full size)

    Mono Mosaic:


    RGB Mosaic:


    DSLR colour:


    • Like 7
  9. Try focussing on something like Venus for a start (it is well placed around dusk as long as you have a view to the W or NW).  As it is so bright you should see something and be able to focus on it (You say you can focus in daylight on a distant object so this should work).  The slew the scope to a bright star and you should be able to see it.  Whack the gain right up for a start and increase the exposure time.  At worst you should be able to see a gray blob!  Then go from there lowering the gain a bit at a time.  Once you have the hang of it you should be able to slew around and find the brighter stars.

  10. And have a look at Chris Shillito's You Tube channel - he has a whole series of tutorials from installation to advanced usage.  Well worth the few hours (!) required to watch them all - you only need to watch the relevant ones as you learn your way around EQMOD.

  11. We now have LED street lights and they do go off around midnight to about 5 am.  Even when on they are not much of a problem.  You can ask the council to shield the lights so you don't get direct light onto your property.

    I suspect you may have a much greater problem when all the new neighbours start installing their (in)security lights all over the place and leave them on all night!

    • Thanks 1
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