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About Dally

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    Stargrazing- all those stars look njumi *__*
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  1. I have a dobsonian scope already, lugging it around in my small car with all the other bits I need when going out isn't as convenient as lugging a Mak and an alt az mount. I appreciate the sentiment nonetheless ?
  2. The OT is a Sky-Watcher Mak 127mm. I'm a bit torn between deciding to buy rings+dovtail or just buying a right-angle finderscope.
  3. I feel like I'm doing something terribly wrong here but can't quite figure it out what's going wrong as my brain is still stuck in sleep mode. The mak scope I have was originally used with an EQ mount which is why the positioning of the finder scope wasn't a problem. Trying on a different mount and you could see from the photo that the finder scope is at a lower height than the scope itself which makes no sense whatsoever. Can someone please for the love of dog save me from this awkward situation I am in!
  4. At the moment I don't have a power tank (a decent one would set me ~£100 which I could get next month) but I do have a 600VA UPS which protects my whole computer setup at home. Has anyone tried using a UPS in lieu of a power tank to powering their mounts, and if so, how did it go? If I am to use a UPS to power a mount, how can I compare the uptime I'll get from a UPS (capacity measured in "VA") vs a power tank where the capacity is measured in Ah?
  5. I have a mini Dobsonian that I use from my window will because it's convenient but from time to time I try viewing things behind the window because I can't open that particular one (I also have very whiny neighbours who view anything I do suspiciously). At low magnification its not much of a trouble but at higher magnification you start noticing things ie air circulation or turbulence in my small 3 inch TELESCOPE because it's warmer inside ofc and image being less clear. I'm hoping to buy a larger telescope but as it wouldn't be too useful indoors I would just keep it in my car so I'm always ready to go wherever as I live in a heavily light polluted area. For using something indoors I'd use binos or just a small Dobby.
  6. Also you're at the perfect age to start- at 25 you're at the height of physical fitness and should have little trouble carrying a heavy scope with you. Your eyesight is also likely to be excellent and by starting involving yourself in a hobby now, you're building new skills and knowledge that you may continue developing and using until you do actually get old and retire and have so much time on your hands you'd have trouble looking for something to do in all that time you have... Unless you stargaze, you c an spend an eternity doing it (unless you decide to remain in London).
  7. When I read the topic title I suspected you were over 50 years old, obviously I was completely wrong lol. What I noticed with certain hobbies i.e. electronics is that they are pursued by either the young (10-18ish) or people soon to retire (50ish). I think this has mostly to do with people going through different phases in life, having more time, etc. The only hobby your age isn't meant for would be building sand castles
  8. Thanks for the alert, grey dome surrounding my area means I have no scope time but at least I can watch this. I just discovered I could watch it live on the internet http://www.tvguide.co.uk/tv-stream/?ch=channel+4
  9. Seeing that short FL is ideal for AP for DSOs, and long FL is ideal for planetary viewing, is there not a jack-of-all-trades type scope out there or something that allows for you to have a variable focal length/ratio? I would've expected someone to come up with a special kind of telescope to deal with this but the closest I've come to seeing some kind of variable focal length would be one of those flextube scopes yet I don't see anyone using them for AP or attaching them to equatorial or non-Dob mounts. Is the mirror at the back the thing which limits the focal length from being adjusted via lengthening/shortening the tube? I've read briefly about "focal reducers" but it seems these appear only available for certain models of telescopes whereas the barlow lenses are more ubiquitous. I have a hypothetical scenario. I buy a 6" Newtonian/reflector because of it's "faster F ratio" and cheapy. At some point I start imaging with it and I'd like to start using it on planets too. For that I'd need increased focal length which I'd get from using a barlow but anyone with a Mak/Cass uses a barlow also.... so the benefit is comparable. But could one use stacked barlows in a reflector to put it on the same level as a Mak/Cass with the same aperture?6" Maksutov £500-Aperture: 150mm-Focal length: 1800mm (F/12)-Focal length with 2x barlow: 3600mm (F/24)-Total cost: £5706" Reflector: £230-Aperture: 150mm-Focal length: 750mm (F/5)-Focal length with 3x barlow: 2250mm (F/15)-Focal length with 2x barlow stacked : 4500mm (F30)-Total cost £370I'm not quite sure how calculating focal length from stacked barlows is supposed to work so I'm guessing here.Again, I don't see anyone use this configuration despite being cheaper and you only need one scope vs two. I smell a rat! *metaphorically*I understand that with increased mag, the shakes/vibration and streaking may be increased, but would having stacked barlows give a disproportionatly higher vibration and tracking issues vs using a single barlow lense? Would getting a 5x barlow lens be a better option than using 2 stacked barlow lenses?With a 5x barlow you'd be able to get a reflector with 3750mm of focal length giving a nice F/25.Sorry if theses are silly boring questions but I haven't the experience with scopes atm and I'm still reading around.
  10. Someone made a manual for doing this but using a webcam to imaging planets butt... I'm thinking that the method can be adapted for DSLR for DSOs: http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/176799-planet-astrophotography-with-a-manual-dobsonian-tutorial There's a topic with some images of DSOs using altaz GOTO mounts, not exactly what you asked for but interesting imo : http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/228101-the-no-eq-dso-challenge/
  11. I was at Exmoor for four days and even hired a 6" dobsonian from the national park. The skies were dark but they were more often than not cloudy too but that's just my personal experience. There would be clear skies during the day which would have me excited and by the time night came it was all tears and an untouched scope
  12. I've ordered the book which should be coming in and installed Stellarium on my laptop, but I haven't ordered binos yet because I'd prefer to hear what stars gazers find the most appropriate but also fairly rugged pair. What I've gathered so far is that one should aim for no higher than 10 power/mag. But as for light gathering I know I'd prefer 50mm for aperture. I'm having trouble choosing atm, I'd want biggest bang or benefit for the buck.
  13. Hehe, when I meant "primitive and slow", I was trying to look at it from the perspective of an alien species that would be capable of space travel- but not primitive and slow to us! With using radio waves I think the problem is that even though it's the fastest travelling "thing", it's slow when you take into account how large the universe is and we've only been monitoring for a bit, a small fraction of the sky as well.
  14. Sorry to resurrect a very old topic here but this has been bothering me and I'm so glad someone else has brought this up: Many of the projects that are running to detect intelligent life outside our solar system try to detect radio waves... Why would any space faring species use parts of the EM spectrum to transmit communications considering that vastness of space? The time delay from Earth to Mars alone is almost half an hour and it's in the same solar system. The difference in distance between Earth and Mars compared to our Earth and another solar system/outside galaxy is insane. There could be plenty of intelligent space-faring alien species out there but we might not be able to detect them because we're mostly relying on detecting radiowaves, assuming that they would be using this relatively primitive and slow medium for carrying messages.
  15. I'm in a bit of a bind when deciding which binos to get. So I'm comparing a few binos, examples: Exhibit A) Serious User Black Extra High Power Binoculars Special Anti Glare Fully Coated Optics Lightweight alloy body (12x50, emphasis in title included for possible hilarity?): http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EJCNJQ2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RUGJQWZMIQZD&coliid=I2NGQIQHKRZY7H Exhibit Barr & Stroud Sierra 42mm (8x42 or 10x42 available) http://www.firstlightoptics.com/all-binoculars/b-s-sierra-42.html The first binos seem to have all the bells and whistles but the title has me wondering if this is one of those exaggerated claims... "Super mega uber miracle baldness cure". But it's half the price of the second pair from First Light Optics. I take it that the more expensive pair may be of higher quality but how significant is the difference in the quality for an amateur? How will binos compare to my 76mm mini-Dobsonian (I may bring the lil baby along with me to Sweden)? I'll be bringing the Sony Nex5 camera with me along with the generic stand/tripod. As I'm not using any special kind of mount and I have just over a month before the trip, what kind of photos can I expect to make? I'd like to be able to collect some exposure/photos and stack them somehow. I may not know anything about astrophotography or imaging but I intend on collecting enough images/videos so that by the time I come back I'll have some basic know-how so I can process them. I'd like some basic pointers! I'm holding up on the other purchases (i.e. book and planisphere/star map) until I've decided on the binos and hopefully will have made up my mind by Monday. I've found a source for the book and I'm gravitating towards a glow-in-the dark planisphere from Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Glow---Dark-Planisphere-Latitude/dp/1849071985/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434064958&sr=8-1&keywords=glow+in+the+dark+planisphere Cheers
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