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I've had a look at a previous print of the ovio holder, and it looks as if the Ovio is supposed to sit on the lip. I didn't file any of the lip away, so the ovio sits on it and the threaded ring keeps it flat against the lip. The lip makes sense, as it keeps the silvered surface of the Ovio from contacting with the surface of the holder. Eric.

I've had to do 'post processing work' on just about every component of LOWSPEC, ie take a file to them to make them fit. I'm sure I had to do this to make OVIO sit nicely. Eric.

I've found it does let through IR so I've covered mine with aluminium foil. I had some roof flashing so used that on the main sections and kitchen foil on awkward sections. If kitchen foil was good enough for the Pioneer spacecraft, it's good enough for me! Eric.

I had this problem with my 200pds. After a lot of messing about with various solutions I used my 3d printer to print off four quadrants which I created using SketchUp. My printer bed isn't large enough to print anything larger: A large Jubilee Hose clamp from ebay was used to keep them in place. I had some Teflon sheet handy, so cut sections of it and fixed them to the side in contact with the rings. Probably would have worked ok with just the PLA but the teflon make it very smooth. Notice I also had to countersink the hinge of the rings so the head of the bolt was clear of the teflon (far left in above photo). This close up shows the teflon more clearly: End result - works well! Eric.

Louise, are you printing the thread items with 0.1mm layers? I find I usually have to carefully clean the beginning of the threads (the part which was in contact with the bed of the printer). For male threads I also use a sharp point such as the end of a bradawl and carefully run it along the threads to clean up any irregularities. To clean the female threads I use a metal T2 insert from a camera and work it into the printed component. Sometimes I've had to twist the T2 a quarter turn into the component, unscrew it, then back in again for half a turn, and so on. Almost like using the metal T2 to cut the thread. The threads are certainly the most difficult parts to print, especially with my old Prusa i3. Eric.

I already had an eyepiece with an illuminated reticle. The illumination part fitted straight into the base of Lowspec. Paul has an equivalent part listed on page two of his pdf, from Baader, I think. 365astronomy sell one which might fit, but don't quote me on that! I just switch it on to align the guide slit on PHD2 with the illuminated slit and then switch it off again. The white slit on the back was quite small to print and had a few blobs on it which I filed away. Works well. Eric.

The illuminated slit works well for me 'as is'. In fact, this addition has drastically reduced the time it takes me to line up a star on the slit. Eric.

The mirrored surface should face the grating, not the guiding camera. Better to get the best specta and sacrifice some quality in guiding. Eric.

I use PHD2 for guiding and find this feature very useful. Eric.

Correct. Eric.

I'm not fully conversant with the theory of the optics, but when I first used it with the full aperture for the collimator the spectra were distorted at either end. Someone suggested I step down the aperture to f8 or f10. I tried both and f10 works best. My understanding is this design works best at f10 so I've stayed with that. Eric.

That print looks decent enough to me, very similar to how mine came out. I went for shaving/filing to get the bits to fit together. Eric.

Yes, the disk is easily removed from the enclosure. Eric.

Yes, I ignored Ovio and ordered from the link: https://en.jeulin.fr/simple-radial-slits-212076.html Eric.

This is the link I used to buy mine. Initially I also had the same response you've had, Louise, got nowhere so ignored it. Eric.

Pliers to remove the supports (be quite firm with it!), sharp cutters and a file are how I get rid of supports. Eric.

Yes, I printed it as you have it in the photo. Eric.

If that had happened to me on my printer I would lower the print speed for the top section. If the first layer of the 'chimney' didn't adhere to the main part then all the subsequent layers would misbehave as well. But it may well be a different issue for you. Eric.

Yes, small sensor, but not noisy. Eric.

I use this one from AltairAstro https://www.altairastro.com/GPCAM2-290M-Mono-Guide-Astronomy-Camera.html It was all I could afford at the time. Eric.

My Lowspec comes in at 764gms, 914gms included the two (very light) CMOS cameras. Eric.

SurplusShed is my first try when I need lenses etc. but when I needed the lenses as specified for Lowspec they didn't have any. Eric.

My Prusa designed 3D printer is over 3 years old, so I suspect more modern ones have improved and can cope with higher speeds. I used layer heights of 0.2mm for the case and 0.1 for all the other parts. Eric.

My main case took 29 hours. I've settled on using a print speed of 30mm/sec for just about everything, and that's reduced to between 30 and 40% for the first layer. I also found that printing the main case using PLA I had to wind the bed temp up to 70 to stop the base contracting and bending as it cooled before the thing was finished. I've kept to Paul's (the designer of Lowspec) recommended infills and layer heights. Best of luck! Eric.

In my case the answer is simple, one doesn't suffice even at the bottom of the bar, so I have to use two. Eric.