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About Luckythecat

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    Tuscany - Italy
  1. Well, thanks again for your clear (and useful) statements. I will try to proceed in both directions (if finally I will have sufficient time and good weather conditions ): in general I would prefer to use G3C (as I bought it ... for this ) but, at same time I am pretty curious to use the Nikon (using Helicon Remote Software, just received, I should be able to have a "large" and clear image in the screen of the portable,... maybe) and compare the results. I hope to post some news (possibly interesting ) as soon as possible.
  2. All very clear, many thanks. Hopefully I will try to take images (as much as acceptably possible) in different conditions ... and I will post them as soon as possible. After discussing these subjects, a doubt is rising in my mind (a very bad doubt, indeed, considering the price I paid for the G3C): as I have a "not so bad" Nikon D5200, with a sensor whic is, roughly, from 4 to 6 times (maybe more) larger than the sensor of G3C, which can capture video in HD quality (for sure I don't know at how many frames per second), together with all necessary interfaces to connect it to my telescope, ... is it, maybe, better to use the Nikon for the capture and to downgrade the G3C to an autoguider? What do you think about? Thanks anyhow again
  3. Don't worry to be "excessively" clear with me: I am just a beginner and I have a lot to learn, ... what exactly stand for "planetary imaging camera" (I supposed that G3C was suitable for astronomic photography for the moon, but also for planet and deep sky, am I wrong?). Coming to optical filters, I have not so many of them (... don't ask me about their actual quality ) but I have the "moon", the "blue", the "red" (both for planets, as far as I know, ... ???) and an Omegon "Deep Sky" (for "cleaning" the sky from light pollution, ... ): do you suggest to use one of them? Maybe I will have another capturing tentative this evening and, in case, I will take pictures, possibly, at night and without the 2x Barlow (I found a joint that allows to connect directly the camera to the 2" eyepiece holder so allowing a reduced focusing distance): even if not "advanced" I can easily hunderstand that the general quality will be improved (also considering the reduction of magnification). I would appreciate knowing something more about "demosaic" (forgive my naivety): can you please address me to some "simple" site? Provided that I find the time (and, mostly, good weather conditions) for capturing the moon tonight, do you have any advice for me concerning how to carry the capture on?
  4. Hi, concerning the orizontal lines, me too, I am puzzled: there were plenty of them (in nearly all "white" areas and ... evident) and I reduced them by using Wavelet Filter (Gaussian) of RegiStax 6 (settings as per Mr. Maxon's indications) I guess that it is there (among others) that I have, motly, to work, but I also have the doubt that my exposure was excessively shorter (I suppose that "the longest the exposure, the richest, in data, the capture", ... am I right?). Concerning filters, you refer to "optical" filters (for instance I didn't mount the "Moon" filter), or to "electronic" (such as the Gaussian of Registax) or ... whatelse? For what it concerns the number of pictures, I do not know what to say: I "choosed" a sequence of 10 as my mount was not tracking correttly (first time it appens to me), but, in effect, in practice all 10 pictures look very similar and I discarted none. Me too I read of "taking hundreds frames" but I though that this was, mostly, related with taking a "movie" (and, by the way, I don't know, provided it is possible, how to take a "movie" with G3C, ...).
  5. Well, here we are, this is my first (vaguely acceptable) capture of the moon (taken, I have to say, in a hurry). I used my Newtonian SkyWatcher 200x1000 GoTo with (obviously) Orion G3C (Cooling ON) ... fitted with a 2x Balow (as, without, I am not been able to focus: I had to reduce the focus distance, but I already reached the minimum); software was Orion's Camera Studio. Capture was taken on sunset (about 8 p.m.), exposure was 0.01 sec. Pictures (a sequence of 10, captured in automatic sequence) have been processed (only) with RegiStax6 (I am not very "advanced" using this sofware so I just followed "Using RegiStax 6 (Paul Maxson)" at http://www.astronomie.be/registax/previewv6paul.html). Tracking of mount (normally good) performed very poorly (captured 10 pictures clearly evidenced that, from one picture to the following, ... the Earth rotated) ... but I had no time for considering/solving the issue. Without any (supposed) modification to the "procedure" that I previously adopted, the Orion Camera Studio performed very well and without any minimal of the previously evidenced problems (even though we have to consider that the whole capturing section lasted only few minutes) I have no reference for a "good" (nor even "acceptable") quality of the final result, but I guess that, maybe, the exposure should have been longher (1 - 2 sec?) Any of you comments (and possibly advices) will be highly welcomed
  6. Sorry for my long silence, but, in effect, I am sorry twice as, up to now, I had no "minimal" sky condition for traying to "capture" anything (mosquitos excluded)
  7. Hi D4N, many thanks again for your kind and appreciated advise, ... together with my apologies (for making you loosing your time) as it was sufficent (for me) to read the manual: quote 5. ImageProcessingAfter you have captured your astroimages(with or without dark frames),you will need to:1. Calibrate Raws2. Convert to Color (only applicable to StarShoot G3 Color)3. Align4. CombineIf you are using the StarShoot G3 Monochrome, all of these steps can be performed in the Combine Images window (Figure 16).For StarShoot G3 Color users, the calibration and color conversion should be done separately before proceeding to align and stack.unquoteSo, it is clear that, in the Orion G3C camera operated with Orion Camera Studio software, the original image, eventhogh containing the "color" data, remains a B&W image if not processed. As often it comes, got an answer you find a new question: how can I get a color image if I use a software different from Orion Camera Studio? (maybe here your advise comes to be important, but the camera seems to accept only 1x1 or 2x2 Binning, ...) I will try to get through this by reading the manuals of both APT and Nebulosity4 (and, considering my attitude not to read manuals, I fear that ... it will take some time). By now, I made some new "daylight" trials (as the sky continues to refuse to provide not even an "acceptable" condition for astronomic observation) and, provided that someone is interested, I can confirm that Orion G3C camera can be connected with both a Barlow (I tested 2x, 2.25x and 3x) and with a Baader Hyperion Mark III 8-24 Zoom: the quality of the image (obviously) seems to "suffer" but it will be possible to evaluate how significant is the problem only taking actual pictures of the sky (which, hopefully, I will post here). Have a clean sky
  8. Hi D4N, many thanks for your interesting advice. I took an image with Neb and click "Demosaic and Square" but nothing happened (it remained B&W) Maybe it is likely that, even if you start with a color image, you nevertheless need to pass through Demosaic and Square for actually seeing a coloured image, but I am nearly sure that I start with a B&W image, as, clicking "(L)RGB Color Syntesis" and then loading a file with "RGB frame", I receive the "Image not a color frame" message. Eventhogh it seems a simple and "errorproof" operation, I doubt to have made some mistake during the installation of the ASCOM driver (I repeated many times the installation, but I didn't succeed in finding where, provided that, I am making the mistake)
  9. Hi Scorpius, further to my last post, I attach the screen pictures of the three softwares (Nebulosity, now, is "4" version). It seems to me that the hystograms are quite different (obviously pictures have been taken in a very minimal delay of time, so - I hope - they should be taken in the "same" conditions). I am not an expert (among many other subjects) of hystograms, but, notwithstanding how you fix the black and white thresholds, I guess that the shape and the range of the hystograms should be directly connected with the "amount/quality of data" collected. Therefore (provided that I am right) APT sees to be the "poorest" recored image; I am not able (not even as a guess) to say which one is better among Camera Studio and Nebulosity4 images. According to you, am I right? Another (of mine) issue: whenever I succeed, I, definitely, geting only B/W images (... with a "color" camera), where I am wrong? (I continue to have doubts about my correct istallation of the driver (provided that it is the right one): telescope.com provide two diffent "Cam Studio" downloads for Windows (8.something and 7.something), do you know which one is better for Windows 7 64 bit? (I asked support@telescope.com, ... but I had no answer). All the best (possibly with "clean sky") LTC (my astronomy observation assistant, aka AOA, Lucky (... the cat), even though not fluent in english, enjoied "LTC")
  10. Hi Scorpius I attach copy of the 9 JPEG files (not my greatest performance). The sequece of the pictures is: APT 0.001 sec APT 0.010 sec APT 0.050 sec Camera Studio 0.001 sec Camera Studio 0.010 sec Camera Studio 0.050 sec Nebulosity 0.001 Nebulosity 0,010 sec Nebulosity 0.050 sec It was very strange (to me) that in the afternoon I practically had no problem (only once APT didn't recognise the camera but: tourn off - tourn on ... everithing OK) while in the evening I had problems (not so "immediate" to be solved) with all three softwares. I have just a feeling, but it looks to me that the "products" of the three softwares are different: I noticed that the hystograms are different (in value of the B-W range, but also as shape of the diagram). In case I had to discard and re-install Camera Studio (I did "some" times) I got the impression that connecting the camera ONLY AFTER completing the re-installation of the software ... give a better chance that the software will work. Hoping to have, possibly soon, a clear sky I just wish it to you
  11. Hi again, I made some tests and I would like to share them with you (I will appreciate your comments). Tested software: Astro Photography Tool, Orion Camera Studio and Nebulocity3 (demo) Subject: white painted crane and trees at about 800mt Conditions: daylight (moderately windy afternoon, with cloudy sky) Telescope: Celestron Astromaster 130 EQ_MD (static) Camera: G3C fitted with Moon filter Focus: "fixed" (with a phisical mark) for all images, it has been "evaluated" with Astro Photografy Tool (very useful the Live View, ... in daylight conditions) but also tested with the others: more difficult with Orion Camera Studio and with Nebulosity (not having a "star" to point the focusing tool was useless) Images: 10 pictures (exposure: 0.001 sec) + 10 pictures (exposure: 0.010 sec) + 10 pictures (exposure: 0.050 sec) for each software (... because of the, even moderate, wind, the crane sligthly waved, that's why 10 pictures) Sequencies: all three sofware tested in a row (nearly at the same time) at 0.001 sec, then sequency repeated at 0.010 sec and at 0.050 sec - Total time duration of tests: about 10-15 minutes (with no significant variation of light conditions) Image processing software: Registax6 without any adjustment (same identical conditions for all treated images) resulting in 9 final photographs (one per 10 images) Results: - the most astonishing (to me) aspect is that ... NO SOFTWARE (not even Orion Camera Studio) CRUSHED NOR EVIDENCED PROBLEMS! - all images resulted in BW (even though the camera is "colour") ... ? - I have no experience for evaluating the absolute quality of the images (considering the distance, I would define it as: "poor" to "poor-acceptable") - the relative quality of the equally not processed images, evidences (in my opinion) a better distribution of grays in the images taken with Orion Camera Studio (images from Nebulosity3 are affected from the artificial disturbing marks due to the "demo" version, but seems the poorer among three) - I tried to repete the same tests during the night (moderately windy and with same cloudy sky) but ... ALL SOFTWARES (mostly Orion Camera Studio) EVIDENCED PROBLEMS ... and I switched to a different pastime If someone is interested at seeing the 9 resulting pictures, or to receive the 90 .FIT original files (and/or) the 9 final bitmap files, I would be pleased to attach them here ... if I knew how to do ... (please forgive me, but I wasn't able to find how/where to attach pictures or files)
  12. As you surely understood I am a "new entry" (not only in this forum): less than 3 yars ago I bought my first telescope: a Celestron Astromaster 130 EQ_MD. Up to now I made the above mentioned first trials of image capturing (of nearby, 600 - 700 m, roofs and trees) with the Astromaster 130, but I will use the G3C camera (when the sky conditions will allow it) on another Newtonian, a Sky-Watcher Black Diamond 200 BD-NEQ 5 with GPS and GoTo. For image capturing I just "discovered" another interesting software: Astro Photography Tool - APT which, also, is undergoing evaluation (it is "free" ... but you can donate 12.70 Euro). Captured data (all) will be processed with RegiStax 6. Further to "basic" optics, 25mm, 15mm, 10mm, 6mm and even ... 2.3mm (nearly unused, just somethimes for the moon) and 2x Barlows, I have a Baader Hyperion Mark III 8-24 (with a 2.25 Barlow). I witt try to take photographs starting with the moon, then (when and if ...) Juppiter, Saturn and maybe Mars and then ... "per aspera ad astera". I am very curious about the possible results obtained connecting the camera to the Baader Hyperion zoom (without Barlow): physically and optically it is possible, ... Another intriguing (for me) item which I am curious to try is an Omegon "Clean Sky" filter ("my" sky is so ... bright), still packed. I know, I am a rookie and I am just entering this merveillous world, ... the good news is that I have to walk a lot though it
  13. I just tested my Orion G3C camera (aiming the same "nearby" roof) with Nebula 3 and .. it really seems to work fine. Nice, very nice (and, mostly, very usefull) nightvision. Everything seems to move in the right direction but, unfortunately ... I am "enjoying" a totally claudy night and I have to wait (most probably some days) for a better sky ... (ach). Thanks and ... clear sky to all Luckythecat
  14. Dear Joel, I followed your advise and I just downloaded Nebula 3 (demo mode) which seems to work fine (I just tested on daylight, in the same yesteray's conditions: I encountered no problem and I got images of nearby roof that looks even better). Just for not being too hasty (and mostly, before paying 80$), I will carry on some more tests and I will wait for the (likely?) reply from telescope.com or for the comments from other members, but it seems that your "solution" is the good one. Thanks (many thanks, indeed). All the best Luckythecat PS: just before reading carefully (if ever I will) the manual, can you tell me if/how it is possible to put in "night mode" the screen?
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