Relpet

I usually buy my Bresser stuff from the German outlet.  The kit you illustrate has been getting 5 star reviews from German users.

This extract from their description looks positive:

"Equipped with the new, highly sensitive SONY IMX225 CMOS color sensor  , the BRESSER HD moon & planet camera delivers amazingly good image results even with simple telescope equipment thanks to very short exposure times . In addition, this ultra-modern camera can also be used as an autoguider , e.g. B. to actively track the main recording device with a single-lens reflex or CCD astro camera. A universal CMOS color camera that primarily delivers super-sharp images of the moon and planets.

The particularly low noise level of this new chip generation from SONY  ensures exceptionally high brilliance and no cooling is required . Due to the high native pixel resolution of 1280x980  , together with suitable telescopes, very nice shots of the moon, but also detailed planetary shots are possible."

I suggest it's worth a punt and if you don't get on with it you would be able to get at least half your money back from AstroBuySell.  Goof luck.

Thanks, but it was a long shot anyway.  I managed a quick naked eye peek on 21st when four of the stars of the W asrerism were visible but, as forecast, full cloud cover last night.

If this message is inappropriate forgive me.  We have dedicated this star to our 8 year old grandson who, after a two year battle fought with unbelievable bravery, succumbed to a deadly juvenile leukaemia on 6th December.  He will be laid to rest on 22nd December when the night sky over West Sussex, England, will be completely obscured.  If anyone would be kind enough to make an image of Cassiopeia on that night, detailed enough to show this star, and PM me with a copy the family would be very grateful.

Thank you.

I had the fixed focal length lenses which enabled me to read without glasses for the first time in 50 years.  The procedure was carried out by surgeons through the National Health Service in England so was free of charge.  Had I wanted the variable focal lenses that would have been a considerable personal expense outside the NHS.  I was warned about your "starburst" effect even with the fixed lenses.  In my case I was told the replacement lens would be slightly smaller than the natural lens being removed and that it would take time, maybe a couple of years, for new tissue to grow to fully incorporate the edges of the new lens.  While that was happening I might find myself troubled by oncoming headlights as the light would hit the edges of the new lenses and refract across the field of vision.  I found this most troubling driving a right-hand drive car on the autoroutes at night in France where the driving position meant I was looking into the path of oncoming traffic more directly.  As promised, the problem disappeared after a few years.

Good luck, anyway.  It's well worth it.  The astonishing improvement in daylight vision was a revelation.  I had no idea how bad my vision had become until the fog cleared.

Simulation Curriculum Corp did reply to my message and referred me to  the forum where users have successfully run their 'scopes from the version, SkySafari 6 Plus on Android so long as Sysnscan is running in the background.  I'll give that a try before going for the Pro version.  I hope the responses concerning IOS will be valuable to iPhone users.

Thanks for that.  I noticed Google Play offer a refund but I'd rather get it right first time if possible.

Before I splash out £18.49 has anyone succeeded in driving the Skywatcher AZ-GTI Freedom Finder using Skysafari 6 Pro wifi on Android?  The developer's forum suggests it's still work in progress but the last date is May 2020.  I've just emailed them but don't expect  a quick response.  I don't have a problem with the Skywatcher's own Synscan Pro but think Skysafari might offer more.

Thanks for these very helpful responses.  If it were mine I might be tempted to spend time and money to bring it more into line with current models but I suspect the friend who discovered it in the possessions left behind by a deceased partner will take no more than a passing interest in its qualities.  Once I've taken a look at it I'll be able to gauge his level of interest in improving the 'scope and possibly acting on the good advice given here.

Thanks again.

A friend has just unearthed a motorised 'scope which I calculate is at least 20 years old.  The Meade 4504 is a 114mm Newt on a GEM. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet but if the optics are OK and the electronics still work the principal drawback seems to be the focuser will only take  0.965" EPs.  What he has are probably those that came with the original kit and, therefore, probably not top quality.  If everything seems optically and electronically sound would an adapter to take 1.25" EPs be worth exploring?  Somebody out there must have tried this and if it's a non-starter I'd rather not waste his or my time trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.  On the other hand, if it's feasible I'm happy to give it a go.

My SW 12v 17Ah power tank has been locked in a barn for 5 months waiting for me to escape lockdown and come and recharge it.  Having arrived a couple of days ago I was too late.  The poor little devil had upped and died on me.  From a number of old posts here and on CN I see that people have replaced the original lead/acid battery at low cost with some success.  Has anyone done this recently and what battery was chosen, please?

It's been very interesting to see how this thread has led to so many insights but, ironically, the Polish dealer's offer that prompted me to open the topic now says the 2" version is no longer available.  I guess there's a good reason!

I wish I could advance this discussion with the same level of knowledge and experience as you chaps but my 2" visual back arrived today.  Focusing on a neighbour's chimney stack about 100 yards away I compared the performance of a 1.25"  25mm Celestron plossl with a 25mm ES 2".  With the plossl I counted 7.5 courses of brickwork  but, with the ES, 11 courses, a difference  in view of 47%.  There was no vignetting as far as I could discern.  However, the plossl is reckoned to have an AFOV of 52° while the ES is marked as 70°, a difference of 35%.  To my (probably over-simplified) calculation it would suggest therefore, that by using EPs with identical fields of view there would be a net difference of 12% in favour of the 2" format.  In some circumstances that  12% might make a difference sufficient to justify to some observers the use of a 2" diagonal with 2" EPs.  If my view of this suffers from being too naive treat me kindly and blame it on my age.  As it was, I was equally thrilled with the image I got through both EPs as my new set-up is now complete.

18 hours ago, Louis D said:

I composited together the max field of view in a Synta 127 Mak with a 1.25" eyepiece and with a 2" eyepiece, both while using a 2" visual back and 2" diagonal.  While some may disagree with me, I think it's pretty clear that there's a lot more true field of view available in a 127 Mak with very little vignetting when using 2" eyepieces.  By sampling luminosity center and at 85% to the edge in the 40mm image, it appears there's 65% of the center brightness available there which isn't bad at all visually at night.

 

Having started this thread I've been interested to see how it's developed, especially since I bought the Omegon from John!  I'm still awaiting delivery of a 2" visual back but as soon as that arrives I'll hope to make a comparison of lunar views using a 25mm ES 2" and a 27mm 1.25" Orbinar flat field.  Not a direct comparison but close enough, maybe.  As John has said in other posts, the Omegon is a true 127mm so vignetting should, I imagine, be even less noticeable using the 2" but I certainly hope my ancient eyes will get added benefit from a 2" option.  I asked the question originally because the Skywatcher 127 is available with a 2" option in Europe,  (and I believe Canada) at minimal extra cost, but not in UK.  FLO, at my request, were asking the importers why it was not on offer to UK buyers but I've had no response.  It's irrelevant now anyway since I'm delighted with the Omegon.

1 hour ago, nfotis said:

It's my impression that from Skymax 150 and above you get 2" eyepieces.

Why not go for the Skymax 150 instead of the 127? Or even the 180? 🙂

N.F.

 

Thanks.  I was the very happy purchaser of an Omegon 127 Mak from an SGL member a week or so ago.  This will take a 2" diagonal so I'm happy to draw a line under this now.

It's a Polish company which I have used before.  The exchange rate, sterling against the zloty, is usually favourable.  As far as I can see the focuser is the standard Mak focuser where the mirror moves, not a Crayford.  I'm using a Celestron 4se tube at present which I have modified to fit on a Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount and though it's really pretty good for lunar observing I would like something better,  I understand, and have found from my own experience, that ordinary 1.25 plossls give excellent results with the 4se but I do have 2" EPs  which I use with my PhotoLine refractor.  If there is no real benefit to be had then, so be it.  Thanks for the responses

Having just submitted an unsuccessful bid on ebay today for a 127 OTA and seen the level of interest and the price paid I'm drawn to the reluctant conclusion that if I really, really want one of these highly-rated OTAs the stakes have to be raised.  In Europe, at a comparable price (including shipping) to the standard model, there is a version available with a 2" focuser (quaintly described in the English version of the website as a 2" spectacle lift).  I've just asked FLO if this is available in UK but wonder what the optical advantage would be, apart from the obvious joy to be exhibited by my 2" EPs at being brought out of the back of the cupboard once more to gaze at the moon.  With this version SW even throw in a 2" EP,  which may - of course -  be of the usual low quality of "kit" EPs but seems to be an indication of some confidence in the system.  Any obvious disadvantages apart from added weight?

3 hours ago, Ags said:

There is no diagonal - the back of the scope is one solid unrotatable flip-mirror unit.

Thanks, Ags.  After I posted I remembered taking it apart once before to fit a slightly longer dovetail bar.  In my 80s I think the memory is going through the shredder.  So I could have used tube rings, I guess.  As it is I'm very happy with the Heath-Robinson fix.

5 hours ago, knobby said:

Looks good ! Did you not try the left hand / EQ firmware ? Although your idea is probably safer ( no chance of bricking mount )

Yes I did but I thought I would need a supplementary equatorial mount for that.  Skywatcher are also keen to absolve themselves of any responsibility for problems arising.  Frankly, I've just had another stunning session of moongazing, absolutely rock steady even with 7mm EP

I took up stargazing in France where we have a second home and most of my stuff is located.  As we were in UK when lock-down started it's just as well I had a couple of small 'scopes here.  I use an 80mm refractor on a Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount for deep sky and, until recently, the NexStar 4SE for planetary and lunar on its own mount.  However, having got used to the sheer ease of operating the AZ-GTI from my smartphone I thought it would be useful to be able to mount the 4SE on the AZ-GTI mount and avoid all the fiddle-faddle setting up the Celestron mount.  Only problem is, on the AZ-GTI mount the fixed dovetail on the 4SE means you are either pointing the wrong way or mounting it upside down, which is a fat lot of use either way.  I contacted FLO to see if they had any ideas but Celestron seem to regard the 4SE as a toy now and don't sell through "proper" astro outlets, only Amazon and some photographic suppliers.  Friendly response but no suggestions.

So, it looked as if tube rings would do the trick but then you have to remove the fixed dovetail bar.  If that is secured by internal nuts then the tube has to be dismantled to retrieve the nuts.  Maybe not the best idea.  I had a rummage and found I had a spare dovetail bar of a suitable length.  I secured that, temporarily, directly opposite the existing dovetail with Gorilla tape.  A speedy, socially-distanced, trip to ToolStation got me a pack of heavy duty cable ties to make the fixing more secure.  Two hours later, two pairs of pliers and job done.   Once the tube was mounted it seemed as rigid as if conventionally attached, even carrying the weight of a Baader 24mm to 8mm zoom.

First time out I was apprehensive but I needn't have worried.  Tracking was fine and I had a pretty magical and prolonged view of the three-day old crescent moon from the back garden.  So, if need be I can revert to the Celestron mount but if I want to drive a few miles to a darker site I need take only one mount and tripod now to use both tubes for lunar, planetary or dark sky.  Pictures attached in case anyone else fancies following suit, or, better still has a better idea!

 I bought one second-hand and was puzzled by the absence of a compression ring myself but it didn't bother me.

This posting in Cloudy Nights is a bit old but raises the question, did it have a compression ring in the first place?

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/453932-do-televue-barlows-come-with-compression-rings/

One responder said he replaced the metal screw with a nylon one and feels comfortable with that.

I hope this helps.

Thanks, Geoff.  I'm trying to get a response from Celestron at present but for the life of me I can't see why it wouldn't work.

I seem to have fried the handset on my old 4SE. It's stuck in Transmit Data and every attempt to flash the firmware results in a total lack of response. A company in California is offering a choice of replacement handsets at a reasonable price, even after shipping costs, but the vendor is unable to tell me if the later model with the USB instead of serial connector would be compatible.  Has anyone been down this road successfully, please?

He recommends the AstroFlat Pro Plug-In.  You can have a free trial.  It didn't work with my graphics card but I thought it was time I upgraded my PC anyway.  It works fine now so I have a paid subscription as it did save a lot of juggling.  He concentrates on stacked DSO images but the general principles worked the same for me with Milky Way.  I hope you found it as useful as I did.

On 09/03/2020 at 13:00, Dave said:

Hi Folks.
I have just released a guide for Affinity Photo astrophotography image processing, but I don't think I'm allowed to advertise within SGL. 😉 
Dave

Thanks. Just placed an order.  I've been following Nik Szymanek's masterclasses in Astronomy Now which persuaded me to buy the app (three days before Serif halved the price!) but  look forward to what will be a handier and,  judging by the contents list, a more thorough guide.

Thanks for the suggestions, John and Knobby.  Since I installed Open Camera I haven't had a clear sky so will keep an open mind.