Peje

Glad to find this topic... going to make the switch now My only issue with PS2 was that my initial solve almost always fails (100 search limit) and falls back to online solver, which last night was offline!

Thanks. I ended up returning the BH as I couldn't get focus. I keep thinking out buying a BH zoom lens for visual astro in the summer, someday maybe :)

For my tightening, I used a metric Allen key and stopped at the point where it was about to slip. Hopefully this isn't excessively tight... I priced replacing the focuser... I'd forgotten how expensive they were!!

Ron replied immediately after I posted this topic... excellent support as always. He confirmed: - You can't use the fine focus wheel with motor kit fitted (even if the clutch is disengaged) - You can use the coarse focus knob when the motor clutch is engaged. So this was a red herring! I went back out and tightened up the lifting capacity bolts, tightened to the point I could feel the focus knobs were harder to use and also as tight as I dared using metric allen keys! Then some tests: > I marked the manual focus knob and moved the focus in and out by 1000 steps, 20 time... no focus slip on the knob. > I lined up a spec of dust on the focuser tube and moved the focus in and out by 1000 steps, 10 time... no focus slip on the focuser tube. So, either adjusting the lifting capacity resolved the problem or I haven't figured out what the problem is yet!! Will have to do some more testing the next time we get some clear sky... see you in 2021 Pete

Hi Folks, I've encountered a slight issue with my now 4 year old CR2, I noticed that the inward travel seems to be slipping. Oddly it seems to slip more when the adjustment bolts are facing downward than when they are upward. I use the motorised kit and noticed that my last two session as the night grows colder that I start to have focus problems. I have adjusted the lifting capacity screws but this doesn't help, when I release the motor clutch and manually focus with the coarse wheel it works as expected but when I use the fine wheel I have problems with it slipping. Something that I may be remembering incorrectly was that when the motor clutch was engaged, you could not move the focuser using the manual focus knobs. Currently you can. Has anyone had problems like this before? I'm wondering if it needs stripped down and cleaned. I have emailed Ron @ Moonlite for help. Pete

I've never attributed rings to be down to the CC but that's perhaps because I haven't thought of it. I'd like to see some comparitive images. This is a well known, challenging star for all scopes. The problem I had with the Baader CC was that it was causing my stars to bloat. This could have been because my scope is f/4 but it does seem to be a widespread problem when you start search the internet for it. EDIT: Just noticed you're also running f/4. Mine is the SW Quattro. If it's the same I would suggest getting the CC made for the Quattro.

I can offer no explanation as to why but the further my camera is away from 0/180deg orientation on the OTA, the more rotation I seem to get over a nights image. This is fairly anecdotal evidence as it was within the first couple of years of my AP so I was adjusting numerous things in unison.

I discussed using the SA200 low profile filter with Robin a few months back, he recommended using the SA100 in my system. I'm currently trying to think if I could rotate my entire camera train by say 15deg and then move the camera by -15deg. My main constraint is that I need the camera sensor to be parallel to my scope axis to stop image rotation during long imaging sessions but also that if the FW get's too high it might clash with the roof of my roll off shed.

That's a good idea, I had been thinking of something like that. My main problem is that there is no spare height in my FW so if I unscrew the filter even slightly I will risk it scraping the inside of the casing.

@robin_astro I've just fitted the SA100 into my system and grabbed a few images of Capella last night, that's as far as I've got unfortunately! A couple of queries / problems I have: - I use an IDAS P2 LP filter, I presume this will create holes in my spectrum? - The SA100 is running at a slope and I cannot rotate my camera without screwing up other alignment or hitting the filter-wheel off the shed. Is this going to be a major problem?

I need to go through the search options, I don't have all of those in my list.

Did you ever get this added? I've been trying tonight but it's not showing up on the search, just says 'unknown error'.

Do the warnings on the RSpec calculator not cause concern?

I want this to be part of my main imaging system. The intention is that at the start, middle or end of a night; the system will select the SA filter and go to my SA target, auto-adjust the focus position and then capture the data I want before moving on with the rest of my imaging run.

Absolutely, nothing is ever black and white... To be clear, do you think the SA200 is better suited to my current system?

Unfortunately I can't add spacers, I need this to drop into my existing system. I often use this when I am away from home (or in bed sleeping) so I need to avoid having to physically access the system. The 193px is actually 1931, the mobile phone display for the RSpec website has just chopped the edge off it, you can see the top of the 1 just poking through in that screenshot. The attached screenshots show that the calculator states the SA200 is worse for me than the SA100.

For reference, I've attached the input and output from the RSpec calculator EDIT: Updated screenshots in later post.

Hi Ken, My camera has 13mm spacing plus roughly half of the 25mm filter wheel so I estimate around 26mm spacing. The SA200 gives me two red boxes, one being the focal ratio and the other I cant remember. The SA100 gives me two green boxes and a warning that the focal ratio could risk lower resolution. I cant increase the FR as I need this filter to be part of my normal imaging rig.

Hi Robin, Apologies if this is a daft question... my CCD is mono. I assume this has no bearing on the SA, in that the spectrum is amplitude based and constant length ratio rather than being defined by colour? Pete

Hi Robin, Excellent info there, it sounds like this really is something I'm after. I will be using it be the f/4 newt, the calculator on the RSpec website does warn me that f/4 has a risk of reduced resolution but it's not a red flag and even an increase to just f/4.5 turns it green. I just need to check that the SA100 will fit in my SX filter wheel but as it takes normal 1.25" filters I expect it will be fine. The calibration and processing doesnt worry me, I actually quite enjoy that side of things.

No problem yes I skimmed through it earlier, I think it should be ok. My plan would be to grab a few star images at the start of a session so I have something to play with in between proper images.

Ah, I get that, it's hard to use clear sky for setting up and calibration. Just a thought, I would certainly buy the SA100 from you if you be interested? I was hoping to get one second hand in case the focal ration proves to be a problem.

I've been considering getting one of these for a while, my setup isn't ideal because it's f/4 but it gets 2 green flags and just a warning on the focal ratio rather than a red box so I guess this could be worth a try. Louise, How useful have you found this? I've been thinking it could be fun to catalogue lots of stars and their makeup.

I don't think it can be the same issue for me, I have quite a large amount of dec backlash (on purpose). That's said, I plan to reduce that significantly this week.

Excellent info Will have a read at those and then reach out.