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MarsG76 last won the day on August 30 2018

MarsG76 had the most liked content!

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About MarsG76

  • Rank
    Main Sequence

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Obviously Astronomy... Observing and Imaging.
    Gym, Down to Earth Video and Photography. Tinkering with and engineering electronic devices.
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  1. A 32° on the sensor would have me very joyous... even might be too much, since a hot night is around 30°C here but generally summer is around the 22-24°C and winter 9-15°C at night, so either way I'd have to use the temperature controller to keep the sensor at the 5°C for which I'm aiming. Don't want to fight frosted sensors.
  2. Are you sure that the problem is not simply that your RA backlash is set to be too aggressive/corrects too much?
  3. I guess that is the case if the peltier is sitting directly on the sensor... but what about when the heat extraction is by using a copper plate which constantly fights outside heating sources such as the circuitry.. I'm guessing that the colder the better... currently I have a 20 degree heat up simply to the copper passing through the camera in a 24/25 degree ambient temp... hence my aim for -20 at the peltier side.
  4. I don't trust the EXIF, I have a thin NTC between the sensor and the cold finger giving me an actual reading.
  5. Hello all.... Good news is that after I filled the inside of the camera with foam strips, sealed the cold finger entrance with expanding foam and placed silica gel into the card compartment, I could image all night for quite a few nights with no condensation problems.... With the on going quest to freeze my 40D sensor while exposing subs, I constructed the same setup to measure the temperature of the peltiers with the surrent setup... the result is that it did not got below 4.2 degrees (from an ambience of around 20), and that temperature was hit in about 20 minutes... the dilemma is that with the distance between the cooling system and the sensor, the cold finger passing through the inside of the camera, seems to heat up by around 20 degrees.. resulting in the actual sensor temperature hovering at around ambient temperature while exposing (give or take a degree or two). Even though the system currently is a noticeable improvement over when the camera was uncooled, ultimately I would like to have the sensor at around 5 degrees. As the next stage in experimenting, I got a bigger heat sink, the CoolerMaster 212X, added a second fan to it and attached two peltier stacked, the primary TEC powered with 12V and the secondary with 5V... the temperature drop was 44 degrees.. went down to -19 degrees from and ambiance of 25... at this level, even if the cold finger would heat up by 20 degrees, the sensor would still be at 4.. so my target would be reached.... The other problem is implementation since thee 212X is a lot bigger, but weighs the same as my current setup with the two TECs and two P4 heatsinks, so it seems like the heatsink might be unbalanced unless I stabilize it. To be continued...
  6. I see you correct s the time... 14 hours or 11 minutes, it's still a great image.
  7. That looks great... what I find amazing is that the exposure time is less than 11 minutes....
  8. Nice detail... Convert your RAW camera files to 16 bit TIFFs before stacking, than you will have your color.
  9. I had a similar issue with nebulosity in the distant past. If you're using a DSLR than you need to convert the RAW CR2/NEF files to 16 bit TIFFs..
  10. +1 for DemonPerformer response.. I use a modded Canon 40D and this camera is great for AP. Big pixels, great light sensitivity and good noise levels.. and the best part is that they're very cheap on eBay these days.
  11. Sorry to hear that.. I too recommend a permanent setup that is at a height which wont have you bending over too much.
  12. Cool.. worth a trip to the UK just to pick one up as a souvenir...
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