Stub Mandrel

11 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Hi Neil

Shame you haven't got Ascom. I found some other complaints about SharpCap not recognizing the asi1600. It relates to v2.9 and 3.0 have you got the latest v3.2.6137?

Louise

Good point. The lappy has the latest version of Sharpcap Pro.

Oh goodie! I can use my licence on both computers 🙂

This is testing on my PC (as debugging on my laptop is horrible with the nasty keyboard)

I haven't got ASCOM on the PC, so downloading that, although not having it doesn't affect other cameras.

Hi,

The problem isn't the camera freezing - I'm used to that with my ASI120, it's Sharpcap failing to detect it at all.

ASICAP, the ZWO software has no problems and allows me to control the cam. So it's a Sharpcap issue. This is what I see (Ignore the ASI120 and Toupcam, it just maintains placeholders for directshow cameras used in the past, their 'proper' drivers appear when connected):

For comparison, if I plug in the Toupcam instead (it shows as GPCAMAR0130M):

Help! Sharpcap is eternally stuck 'detecting cameras'.

ASI1600 shows in device manager and works with ASICAP

Any ideas @rwg?

Thanks!

5 hours ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

I hope those HDD's are in a raid 1 array, no spinning rust lasts forever....

One's periodically backed up to the other.

I make sure I have off-line backups of everything - I have anti-ransomeware but I don't want to take any chances.

13 hours ago, Alien 13 said:

run out of storage space. 

I only keep files for my current projects on the laptop, I've got 1Tb on the desktop and that's well away from being full now I've taken my astro stuff off it to a pair of external HDDS

Just now, JamesF said:

Yes, I wonder if by "Data Transfer Only" they mean "unsuitable for charging".  I'd expect "normal" bus-powered USB devices to work.

James

I'm beginning to suspect this is the case.

@Alien 13 you're a computer performance guru. I need a new computer for business how would you rate this:

https://store.hp.com/UKStore/Merch/Product.aspx?id=7GM19EA&opt=ABU&sel=NTB

Obviously not a super duper gaming machine...

Can I assume USB 3.1 ports that are ' Data Transfer Only ' are useless for operating cameras etc?

Is the work around a powered USB  3.1 hub, and how practical are these if you want to work away from mains sockets?

Quote

1 USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-C™ (Data Transfer Only, 5 Gb/s signaling rate)
2 USB 3.1 Gen 1 Type-A (Data Transfer Only)

I might be stupid enough to join in...

2 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

You know those little strips that the printer lays down on the left hand start at the beginning... I was removing a small bit and, instead of using the supplied tool, I used my finger. Unfortunately, instead of simply coming away, it decided to behave like a splinter and went in under my nail, diagonally, by over a cm. After one of my front teeth breaking off yesterday, I wonder what mishap is next to befall me... #bewareofsharppla

Louise

Argh! I share your pain - literally, it's happened to me so I learned the same lesson, I use a scalpel now...

3 hours ago, IanL said:

I haven't taken mine apart, but other AZ-Goto users report that the RX and TX lines are connected on the mount board, so it's a half duplex setup. Hence my wondering about the potential flow control line as usually for bi-directional comms on half duplex you need a control line to ensure that both ends aren't trying to send at once. On the other hand the AZ-GTi wiring diagram suggests that only the power and RX/TX lines are actually connected. I do wonder if the AZ-GTi is full duplex, but I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Interesting, pretty sure the mounts  all use  a 5V version of RS232 (the  hideously expensive PC-mount leads can be replaced by a cheap as chips USB-RS232 converter lead plus a suitable plug). My impression was that the  HEQ5 uses bi-directional communication, but I may be wrong and it's just the wired in connection that confirms the lead is connected! If it does then  at least one RTS/CTS  lead would need to be connected.

3 hours ago, IanL said:

Pins 2 and 4 are RX and TX, which are connected inside the mount, so could connect one or the other to both  RXD and TXD on the WiFi board. Have seen posts about people seeing outgoing commands reflected straight back, so presumably correct.

The mount is more likely to be echoing the commands, a way of confirming that they have been received correctly.

8 hours ago, 8472 said:

I failed to say, I already own a 130pds and 0.9x SWCC. 

My M43 sensor seems to do ok, I've yet to use my APS-C, and I don't currently own any FF. I guess there's no point considering one now.

Thanks for the info!

APS-C works fine with the 130P-DS

49 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Oh, didn't know you could do that! D'uh.. I'm still a green noob! But it still sounds like trial and error... Do you by any chance know a way of adding a T2 thread to Fusion 360? I have come across references to doing this via a file in a particular folder but I don't have the files/folders that were mentioned, so unable to take that further. Any ideas on that?

Thanks

Louise

Fusion360 has a thread tool that just creates an image of a thread for modelling purposes.

In most 3D programs you can create one by drawing the thread profile (a 60 degree equilateral triangle for metric thread) and rotating it to make a thread. You could try here  for tips (have to declare an interest in that web site).

9 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Any tips re the lock ring?

Not sure.

Horizontal expansion (try a negative setting is useful for getting sizes spot on)

I've managed T2 threads, you need a good small vertical step and make sure the thread axis is vertical. If its too tight use the Cura facility for compensating for hole size to keep everything else in proportion.

Astronomers should be thankful!

I edit a magazine about model engineering. Our articles are photo heavy, which can in some cases means 20-odd photos of a grey bit of metal on  grey machines being worked with grey tools gradually getting smaller... fortunately most of our readers are more interested in the process in question than great artistic merit but it does cheer me up when I get submissions with really good and varied photos.

I'm in competition with myself, not anyone else (aside from the light-hearted SGL competitions!)

If I see better pics than I get I think how can I get there?

If I see someone who is starting out, they are usually doing better than my first attempts, and if I can offer useful advice or encouragement I try to.

Getting published, an APOD or AAPOD isn't about being better than other people, it's about achieving a standard, but equipment and experience can and should be taken into account as results achieved with limited gear (for example) can be particularly inspiring for beginners.

I like the approach taken at most model engineering competitions, where most of the entries are judged against a standard, not against each other.

1 hour ago, Rob Sellent said:

In short, the internet provides much of the content we are consuming these days. Personally, I look forward to the day when SGL & FLO start producing its very own PDF magazine and if produced with care would surely become one of the most widely read and greatest astro-magazine in the world  

There's a surprisingly huge amount of work in producing a professional magazine, even in PDF format - as I am all too aware.

It's not a  cheap thing to do, so you need to be assured of a sizeable paying readership, plus an assured supply of quality content well in advance of first publication.

🙂

The Maginon 20-60x60 Maginon spotting scope is back in Aldi, but now £25 but with a proper tripod, albeit a bit flimsy it is usable and quite tall, and has to be with £10 on its own. I haven't been able to take a look at anything yet but it certainly seems from other reviews to be a good choice for keeping in the car for random birdwatching or even a cheeky bit of astronomy. Very light so could be hand luggage on holiday. For the price what's not to like.

On 10/11/2019 at 15:31, martin070 said:

Need help on ghosting. 

Hi, I am new on 130PDS and I found that when I use this scope with SW coma corrector to do high contrast DSO imaging such as M42, I will get some ghosting. (I use APS-C DSLR)

Here is an example with β Orionis. Is it possible to fix it through flocking or some other things without changing my corrector? If not, is Baader MPCC III a good choice? Because I heard that this one cannot correct the coma as good as the SW one 

PS. I modified the mirror clip to make cleaner diffraction spike and I use L-pro filter. But the ghosting has been there before I modified or imaging without filter

I have only found this an issue with VERY bright stars like Alnitak and relatively easy to remove with a bit of judicious healing.

11 hours ago, Paul M said:

I see that, but I never turn right at the E end of the M55. ⚠️

T'other side of Preston is outskirts of London! 🤣

I live in the Midlands. Easily defined as the area northerners think is the south of England and southerners think is the north...

What is interesting is how pathetically weak gravity is.

I can push myself away from the pull of the entire earth!

A tiny magnet can lift a big lump of steel with the whole planet pulling the other way!

Single frame taken about 4 minutes after contact with the ASI 120MC and £70 Lidl telescope! A little bit of denoise and tiny bit of sharpen as well as false colour.