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Everything posted by JohnC

  1. Ah i see. The HEQ5 is a great mount and will serve you well. I assume that you are talking about the newer white versions. These have much better motors than the older black versions. Best regards John
  2. The super polaris should cover you well for the requirements mentioned...If you do change then go for the HEQ5.
  3. OK, if the altitude altitude knob is locked, turning the altitude slow motion control rotates both mounts (top and side).Yes If the altitude knob is not locked and the two lock screws for the top mount are also not locked turning the slow motion control rotates only the top mount. Cannot understand how this is possible. The worm acts on the end mount not the top mount. Ie If the altitude knob is not locked and the two lock screws for the top mount are locked turning the slow motion control rotates both mounts. Is this how it should be? Yes But why does the slow motion control for the altitude axis still operates when the knob is not locked? This sounds like the Knob (Clutch) is not releasing fully. Or could be drag if no ota's are on the mount when doing this. The mount appears quite stiff when not loaded, but is a joy to use when scopes are in place.
  4. Back to my original question. If the altitude altitude knob is locked, turning the altitude slow motion control rotates both dovetails (top and side). If the altitude knob is not locked, turning the slow motion control rotates only the top dovetail saddle. Is this normal? No? Not if the two lock screws for the top mounting are not locked. The two mounts should both move together at all times. Hope that makes sense. The same does not apply for the azimuth knob which only operates in the locking position for both dovetails.
  5. Do you mean that each of the two dovetail saddles can be moved in altitude individually by using the slow motion controls? No they will move together Meaning that if the altitude knob is locked both dovetail saddles move in altitude together and if it is unlocked only the vertical (top) dovetail saddle moves? Does this mean that when the altitude knob is not locked, the altitude axis gears are still engaged and wouldn't this cause damage when moving the axis manually? With the locks off you can move the mount freely, this will not damage anything. I assume that your answer does not apply for the azimuth axis as by leaving the azimuth knob unlocked it does not allow to use the slow motion control to move only the vertical (top) dovetail saddle..The locks engage the worm gears and so you then use the slow motion controls. What is the purpose of the two locking screws on the vertical (top) dovetail (one on its azimuth and one on its altitude axis)? These are released to allow the top saddle to be lined up with the main scope mount. It enables the user to point both scopes at the same point in the sky. There are four holes that can be used to screw each of the two dovetail saddles on the vertical (top) and horizontal (side) bases on the mount. On the dovetail saddles there are only two holes and this allows different mounting positions. Usually use holes that place the dovetail in a central position. For an optical tube around 5-6kg mounted horizontally would a counterweight be nessesary? Not if placed on the main end saddle, if placed on the top saddle i would use a counter weight.
  6. I have a few more questions (and probably some others later): No problem fire away. What is the purpose of the two locking screws on the vertical axis? Not sure which you are refering to? What is the three empty screw holes around the horizontal axis next to where the counterweight rod is installed? These are locking screws for the end flange. When removed they allow the endflange to be unscrewed from the mount. Is there a correct position that dovetails should be installed (there are four holes on each base that allow the dovetail to be installed on multible angles)? Not quite sure what you mean here, pic enclosed of my mount for reference. The mount seems very solid, is a counterweight nessesary with every optical tube or only heavy ones? Normally for heavy ota's only. Must be used when mounting a scope on the top mounting.
  7. Yes perfectly normal. Each axis is moved individually. You will love the mount they are very good indeed.
  8. Autostar can be controlled from laptop easily
  9. How are you finding the LX80? Worried about the bad press it received and interested in the views of someone who actually has one. Many thanks John
  10. I normally use jpegs....remember to click the "Atach to post" button Nice shot by the way. John
  11. trust me you do not want to touch the meade one at the moment. many issues with it. I think the SW will be much superior albiet more expensive.
  12. I have an SE mount and it copes well with my Intes Mak, which is quite heavy. They are good mounts, easy to use and set up. They are very compact. In my opinion the tripod lets them down...should have been a bit beefier. John
  13. Try Graham at astrotec. He can make most things and is very reasonable http://www.astroteclimited.co.uk John
  14. When colimating the rear cell remember that it is the opposite to the SCT. Move the central point in the direction of the miscolimation. Vey small movements make a big difference. My intes if needing a tweak takes about 1/16th of a turn. Always adjust with a star not cheshires etc. John
  15. http://www.youtube.c...bed/sC88sPcqsOo
  16. Just the EQDIR is req. It is agreat way to go.
  17. Easy to unscrew the main body tube and remove said intruder. Not too sure on SH price though. John
  18. I was sat at the laptop viewing the forum instead of being outside Miffed, but serves me right. If its clear get out there!
  19. This will be good, glad someone caught it.
  20. Tried it once.....never again too cold and uncomfortable...for me.
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