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AbsolutelyN

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Posts posted by AbsolutelyN

  1. 8 minutes ago, M40 said:

    Good advice from wxsatuser here. Make sure that the 230V comes from a nice 30ma rcd or rcbo device. The boxes I have used are ip66 grp enclosures available from most electrical wholesalers or RS components. Use plastic 25 or 32mm compression glands drilled in the bottom only (yes I know I have one in the side 🤦‍♂️, I will plug it eventually). Oversize the glands, you are not looking for them to be weathertight but you will need sufficient space to get the cable plugs/connectors though. The box you can see houses all the bits and bobs with the second box housing the connectors and cables. Mistake I made was going too small with the second box, the cables just fit so I suggest getting the same size two boxes or at least one thats big enough to get the cables in easily. The boxes stand on unistrut brackets but any frame to space the boxes off the floor is the way forward as you need space between boxes, cable glands and a few spare inches for the cables. Enjoy :D

    Thanks for the advice, I was looking at RC over the weekend and they have a huge selection of wall boxes but would obviously select a plastic/abs one. It's going to take some time to put together but this thread has been very valuable in understanding how best to approach this. The power supply, currently located indoors, is already protected with an RCD located in my office so hopefully I got that part right already.    

  2. 4 minutes ago, UKDiver said:

    I recall the JWST will be in a very different location making getting there harder than the shuttle would ever manage.

    Yes it’s about 1.5 million miles away. If it’s not possible to refuel via some kind of automated mission why not some kind of nuclear power source that will last multiple decades? I’m sure there is a good reason.

  3. 2 minutes ago, callisto said:

    The Hubble was only give a 15 year lifespan...30 years later and still going 😃

    I get that and expect it will last way longer but Hubble was serviced several times and why not just build it with maintenance for many decades to come factored in?   

    • Like 1
  4. I remember reading about this telescope back in secondary school, really looking forward to it actually being launched. However the thing I don't understand is why build a 13 billion dollar telescope that only has a 10 year lifespan? Surely some kind of automated mission to refuel it to keep it in position must be possible?  

  5. 7 hours ago, M40 said:

    As others have said, it's volt drop over distance that is your concern. 2.5mm for extra low volt IMO is not a starter. Put the power supply in a box and look to it being local to your stuff. I mounted the same supply in a box powered by a long mains lead, installed a set of connectors in the box, got rid of the cigarette lighter and ring lugs off the supplied cables and then just connected the supplied cables to the connectors. Job done.

    box1.jpg

    That looks brilliant, may I ask what the box is (and where to get one) please? Many thanks

    • Thanks 1
  6. Wow, thanks so much for all the info and ideas. Really, really appreciated. It sounds like the way to go is get the power much closer to the scope so I'll have a good look at running mains closer and into some kind of waterproof power box which can house the power supply. It should make for a much neater solution as I'd only need one power cable and an ethernet cable for the mini pc. 

  7. Thanks for the input here. Yes the cable would be running between the 12v power supply and the load. So it would only be carrying 12v. Basically I don't have an observatory, only a permanent spot to setup at so I don't know how else to keep power there permanetly as the supply has to be indoors. I've positioned the power supply as close as I can possibly get it, just measuring now I'd says it's between 6 to 7 meters. 

  8. I'm looking to clean up the power to my scope and wondered if anyone can advise on the load I can put on a Nevada PSW-30 25-30A Switch-Mode Power Supply

    The power supply will be positioned less than 10 meters from the scope and will be powering a CEM120, up to 2 ZWO cooled cameras and couple of dew heaters. On occasion I'd like it to also power a AZEQ6 at the same time. 

    Will a single 2.5mm length of cable be sufficient to power all of these or would it be better to run two cables? I do have a spare Nevada PS-08 6-8A Regulated Linear Power Supply that could run a second line but ideally don't want to add that in unless needed to keep cables to a minimum. 

     Any advice much appreciated. 

  9. Over the last few years I've had an expensive 100mm apo and a RASA8 ... but due to unforeseen circumstances I unexpectedly ended up with a 250mm reflector that cost a fraction of either of those ... and I'm more than happy with it. Much prefer it to the apo, will probably eventually end up with a RASA again for speed with UK weather but as an all rounder its an insanely good and affordable scope. Due to its weight the 250 is not a starter scope but 130mm / 150mm / 200mm reflectors are amazing value and can produce stunning images for the price. I'm no longer interested in expensive apos - perhaps just a good value refractor for solar one day.  

    • Like 5
  10. 6 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

    Beautiful Tristan, I'm looking forward to spending some time on Orion this year if the weather ever improves.

    Any plan for the HH - RGB?

    Thanks Adam. Yes Orion is on my list this year as most of it was obscured by a tree that I've had trimmed back especially 🙂
    Would love to get some RGB but the weather is pretty hopeless so far this winter. I'm finding myself drawn to one off quicker targets as its so unpredictable. For me longer targets needs a couple of clear nights close together as when you are setting the rig up each night as camera easily gets moved etc.  

    • Like 1
  11. It's not been good at all recently here but have managed a couple of quick images. Most of those have involved waiting up late if there is a chance of a clear period and getting a few hours imaging in should a gap appear. I usually call it quits if no sign of clear sky by midnight or if there is a chance of rain.  Other than simply staying up and keeping an eye on conditions keeping a very close watch of multiple weather forecasts and satellite / radar imagery really helps.

  12. 10 hours ago, Gallandro said:

    You don’t happen to recall if the length was greater than 100mm by any chance?

    Sorry I can't remember exact size but its not very long at all. Perhaps email First Light who can probably let you know. 

    I used to attach mine to one of these - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dovetails-saddles-clamps/william-optics-dsd-210-plate.html - which gave better length for balancing in the saddle of my azeq6

    • Like 1
  13. Not aware of multiple versions of the scope, just slight change in paintwork if I remember correctly. I used to have the scope and it was absolutely superb. The dovetail does let it down a bit though in my opinion.  Its fixed to the scope and only a few inches long. I used to attach a longer dovetail to the scopes built in dovetail which made it a lot easier to balance. I've heard of people removing the dovetail and adding standard rings. 

    • Like 1
  14. 3 minutes ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

    I would say the temperature is too high and fan speed too low.

    Most of my printing is with PETG and cheap stuff from Amazon and print at 225 C, 80 C bed and fan 50% first layer then 70%.

    I too have had some similar instances but usually due to over extrusion or printing to high temp and it puts some big blobs down on the print then next pass the extruder hits the blobs and knocks the print off the bed and then continues to just spool out filament into thin air.

    If you wan I would be more than happy to have a go at printing it in PETG is you attach the STL file then either pick it up when passing through Skipton or I can post it.

    Steve

    Thanks Steve - I'll give those settings a quick go now before I switch filament tomorrow.  The offer of printing is really appreciated but I'm not skilled enough to create a model without lots of test prints to tweak the design and it's also nearly 300mm wide so will take a least a day to print once I get it right. Thank you  

  15. I had a go with PTEG but have finally given up. After much experimenting I thought I'd cracked it with the settings below, it was printed ok for first 30 mins so I left it for a while ... and came back to a big tangled ball of threaded plastic. Will try again one day but for now just bought a replacement spool of PLA which is fine for what I'm printing. 

    Nozzle 245c
    Bed 70c
    Fan 20%

     

  16. Thanks - yes I'd heard the TS f4 focuser was not great. I'd have gone with it but as you've found out it adds a lot of cost needing to upgrade the coma corrector. 

    All the mods now done so ready for first light. 18mm chopped off the focus tube, flocked inside, aperture mask around the mirror, bobs knobs added and dovetail switched to Losmandy. Just need a clear sky to test it ... hope I've not copped too much off the drawtube 🙂 

    img-1867.jpg?width=1800

     

    • Like 1
  17. What a nice thought exercise. If I was just starting a new setup on that kind of budget I'd probably go with a high end mount and relatively cheap Newtonian. 

    Mount:
    CEM120/EQ8 + tripod or pier - £4-5k

    Scope:
    Quattro 8" or 10" Newtonian - £600/700 or 200/250pds for £400/500ish
    Replace dovetail with a big losmandy one - £100
    f4 Aplanatic Coma Corrector if quattro - £260 / standard if not (£150ish) 
    ZWO AEF for autofocus - - £190
    Upgrade focuser to Baader Steeltrack - £240 

    Camera:
    ZWO ASI 2600MC-PRO - £1.9k
    L-eNhance (or similar) for narrowband - £160
    Guidecam - £150
    Evo Guidescope (or cheap 80mm refractor) - £100 to £200

    Others:
    Mini-PC to control it all from or ASIAir - £200?
    Lots of cables + good power supply £?
    Dewheater for guidescope
    Dewcontroller
    Pixinsight - £?

    Scope covers + some kind of heater to put under cover like a pet blanket.
    I'm assuming at least semi-permanent setup.

     

  18. Thank @vlaiv much appreciated. I'll be 3d printing a mask for the mirror clips but I just had not anticipated the focus tube issue. Being on a limited budget the coma corrector you mention is great but is out of budget (already have the skywatcher) and that kind of defeats the point of buying the scope as it basically costs the same as the scope itself. Perhaps I'd have been better saving for the TS 150 f/4 and that corrector ... but as is perhaps the hacksaw may the the best option. Interesting though, I dint know those properties of the TS corrector so thank you. 

  19. I've just picked up a Skywatcher 150PDS in the hope I can set it up (and take it down) much quicker on less favourable nights rather than hauling out the huge 250PDS which requires a 100% good night for it to be worth the effort. On inspecting the scope the drawtube protrudes a long way into the tube and after a few googles this seems to be an issue with the 130pds/150pds which I did not spot before buying. I cant seem to figure out which coma correctors solve or exasperate the issue.  I'm using the skywatcher 0.9x coma corrector. Does anyone know if I'll need to hacksaw the draw tube for good stars?  Current conditions don't allow for even taking the scope outside.

    The other issue I immediately found was balancing. Being so much smaller the imaging end with camera/filter-wheel/focus motor seems considerably heavier than the mirror end. I noted ankle weights were good for the 130pds but  suspect the 150 is too big for those - does anyone have any recommendations for balancing the 150pds?  

    Any thoughts much appreciated.

  20. 1 hour ago, david_taurus83 said:

    Sorry if I've missed it but what scope covers are we talking about that get hot underneath when the sun is out? I have a Telegizmo 365 cover I'm planning to use on my pier setup so just wondering if I'll have the same issues. My autofocuser is setup on a 3D printed bracket. Mini PC will also be under the cover.

    Black ones. One day I might invest in some kind of white or reflective one.  

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