Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_2019_sp_banner.thumb.jpg.a0ff260c05b90dead5c594e9b4ee9fd0.jpg

DougAtDallington

Members
  • Content Count

    48
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About DougAtDallington

  • Rank
    Nebula

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    East Sussex
  1. Hi Louise, Thanks for the reply. I'm using SIPS, the software supplied with my Moravian Instruments CCD camera. I use DSS for processing OSC subs from my DSLR but can you use it for LRGB stacking/combination? I was trying to convert calibrated LRGB FITS subs produced by SIPS into TIFF so I could do the alignment and combination of the subs in Photoshop. Do you use DSS for LRGB? If so, can you point me to information about the work-flow involved?
  2. Hi, I've just started with LRGB imaging and am producing mountains of FITS image files that need processing in Photoshop. It would be easy if Photoshop would accept FITS, but it doesn't, it seems to want TIFF. I've managed to process my first complete LRGB image (HaRGB really) see attached M1 image, and had to convert all the calibrated FITS subs into TIFF one by one - a very tedious task. Is there any software (preferably free or shareware) that I could use to batch-convert FITS files to TIFF? My search of this forum didn't find any applicable posts and searches of the internet found may applications that will convert file by file but not as batches. Any sage advice from experienced LRGB aficionados? Kind regards, Doug
  3. Item on the BBS News Science & Technology site Flat lens promises possible revolution in optics See http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-36438686 Apparently, using chip-fab techncology it should be posible to make super-quality lenses 30 cm dia or more for pence (cents). Big, cheap refractors here we come? Regards, Doug
  4. Nice images of Jupiter. How did you use GIMP in the post-processing? I've installed it on my PC but am not having much success as I've no real idea how to use it - the YouTube tutorials don't seem to be applicable to astro image post-processing. Any tips or pointers to onlline resources would be very welcome. P.S. Stephen Green - we are about 10 miles away from each other. Do you ever get to the astro meetings at the Herstmonceux Science Centre? I'd be interested in swapping war stories about Celestron OTAs.
  5. I've an Altair Starwave 110ED with a 3" crayford focuser. The focuser has a number of adjustment grub screws and screw heads but I've no instructions on how they should be adjusted. Can anyone point me to on-line resouces that explain how to get the focuser properly adjusted (I am experiencing some off-centre vignetting that is hard to remove with flats). Thanks in advance.
  6. Olly, I'd very much welcome a thread to discuss flats. I'm having problems with taking good flats having tried: - i) a whiteboard on the obsy wall illuminated variously by red obsy LED lighting and/or a white LED 'bar' desk lamp, and ii) a flat LED light pad panel on its lowest setting held against the end of the OTA (which was still too bright). Hearing from you experienced guys would be very welcome.
  7. Thanks, Chris, for the details of the cable cover - I'll look into that. Yes, I bought it to handle either my C10N newt + 110ED side-by-side or my C11SCT + 110ED side-by-side plus cameras, etc. What's stopping me putting these OTAs on the mount at the moment is a search for a Vixen clamp that I can bolt on top of the 110ED rings to carry the 70 mm guide scope. I've not had much luck looking through the ADM website or anywhere else - would you guys be able to suggest a place to search?
  8. Nice setup Chris. Very impressed (shows me how far I've still got to advance!) Where do you source the zip-up sheath - that looks a lot more user-friendly than my spiral wrap. Kind regards, Doug
  9. Dear all, Thanks for your helpful suggestions and useful information. I promised I'd share the eventual configuration so here's three images of the setup currently in use. The 110 mm Starwave is being used for imaging in this configuration, with the Celestron 70 mm pressed into use as the guide scope. There are effectively two wiring umbilicals; one from the pier to the RA part of the EQ8 mounts (carrying power, and USB 3.0 from the obsy PC to the hub on the RA axis of the mount), and one from there to the dual saddle on the DEC part of the mount (carrying power for the dew heaters, USB 3.0 x2 for the cameras and power for the Nightscape camera). The bundled up excess of the USB and dew heater cables is a bit unsightly, but neither the electrons nor the photons seem to mind! :-) Yes Ian and Derek, I was concerned about induced interferences but in the last two months of use I've experienced no problems at all. And after removing both the EQ8 alt adjustment bar and the two az adjustment screws I've experienced no snags during slews or guided tracking. Hoping this is of interest.
  10. Chris, Just re-read your original post and realised I'd misunderstood. Apologies. No problem with EQMOD being granted Admin rights.
  11. Chris, Running applications under admin rights is very risky - especially if the PC is connected to the Internet via anything other than a very locked-down firewall. I've helped rescue a number of PC users that have found their PCs are suddenly not theirs any more. Admin rights should only be used for the installation of software (where this is required) and for PC configuration - and then only for the shortest possible time. Is there any way that EQMOD could be configured to cope with the issues people have experienced, perhaps by only running a single instance at a time?
  12. Thank you all for your useful comments. Derek, How did you fix the boxes to your scope's rings? Do you have a close-photo of that? And, is there any issue with the offset weight of the boxes making balancing difficult? Huw, I like the neat snag-free effect of the braided sleeve, and grouping the cables. I'll see if I can adopt a similar scheme. Olly and Huw; sage advice. I had been using self-adhesive address labels, but they get mangled easily and are prone to getting soggy with dew. So I've ordered some marker cable-ties for EBay to make a more permanent id for each cable. See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321438721763?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=510302249910&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Ian; that's a good point. I'm an electronics engineer and had concerns about, say, the DC pulses in dew heater cables causing degradation of USB traffic in adjacent cables. But, so far, this hasn't been a problem. However, it is good engineering practice to keep information service cabling separate from power supply cabling so I'll re-route my cabling accordingly just to be sure. Thanks again to all for your feedback. I'll post a pic of the results of my labours in due course.
  13. I've been astroimaging for about a year, and use a number of OTAs (refractor, SCT, Newt) for different tasks, and was wondering if anyone has tips or recommendations for mount cabling. To accommodate the various OTAs and their accessories a cat's cradle of wires and cable has evolved, some cables not in use because they are used with a particular OTA, I've even tried using spiral cable tidys but I'm worried that the bundled cables might be stiff enough to affect the mount operation. For example, is it best to put as much as possible on the mount (USB hub, dew controller, etc) to minimize the cables to the mount? Your thoughts would be appreciated.
  14. Yes, this was my temporary solution as well - I tried black duct tape and black insulating tape. But the damp British nights degrade the adhesive after a while, the tape begins to peel off and the blue LED light sneaks out. FWIW: I'm told a single blue LED can be reliably replaced by two red LEDs in series. I'm going to try this, but need to practice micro-surgery first in order to replace single SMD blue LED with two SMD red LEDs.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.