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About salas

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  1. Can you advise what mount you are using. Your scope at 900 focal length may be difficult to capture the orion nebula but not impossible. The camera will read F00 when not conected to a Canon camera lens staright in to the telescope, this is normal. Your eye piece has nothing to do with imaging. The T ring adapter connects to your camera and that slots straight in to the 1.25" opening of the telescope focuser. From there you you use the telescope as very big lens.
  2. I really need to try the longer dove tail bar option, I've been adding various objects to the front of my GT81 to balance it using bungee straps - including a can of Fosters, which is a well deserved beverage as a bonus after a hard night imaging! Just beware if you buy a new dovetail bar to screw straight through it in to the bottom of the scope ring it will need to have countersunk holes in the bottom to accommodate the Alan head screws or it wont fit in the mount saddle, as I discovered the hard way.
  3. Nice 1st attempt! And the nebulosity is clearly present which is an achievement. Once you've achieved focus manually don't switch to AF leave it in manual and will stay where you set it. If you are using a intervalometer for timing the camera make sure it's not hanging down on its cable from the camera as even a slight breeze will move it and can jiggle the camera around effecting the images. Also check if there is a shutter lock up setting for the camera which can help reduce vibration. ISO 800 sounds right but experiment with the exposure lengths, your polar alignment accuracy will effect this - I'm not familiar with what you can expect with the EQ2 (probably discussed on here somewhere). Your stars look round except the edges of the image where there is slight stretching which will be due to field curvature caused by the lens - perfectly normal! Cheers, Steve
  4. Thanks Olly for the link to the tutorial. One of the areas I've been a bit confused over - still getting my head around is when I take the final stacked image produced by dss and then try combining it with say a 15 second sub for the trapezium, as I need to crop off some border artefacts produced by dss after stacking and then trying to get the 15 second sub (just for the trapezium) to align and scale properly as a result of my cropping of the main image, I think the tutorial covers that so will definitely give it a go. I will figure it out eventually To be honest I totally forgot to specify my minimum values for black point and just carried on with what I selected with the dropper, oh well there's always next time. Thanks, Steve
  5. Lovely image of the big bright beauty, I reckon a quick sharpen and contrast adjustment in light room or Photoshop would certainly bring out more detail, I've been playing with lunar images myself to see what works best.
  6. Hi All, thanks for the comments and thanks Paul for the pointer on the black point, I probably did pull the black to the very left, I think I picked the darkest spot of the image and set that as the black point using the eye dropper, when I did that it did pull the data way over to the left. Will give it another shot and see if I can milk some more detail out. Thanks, Steve
  7. I started with an ST102 and it has been a brilliant scope for observing, I can pick out great detail on Jupiter, Saturn and of course the moon, also good for observing star clusters. The standard sky-watcher eyepieces are actually very good! The AZ3 is a good well built solid mount. He's going to love it!!!!
  8. Hi All, this is my first attempt at M42 with my new scope and a fair bit of processing in PS. I only had about 10 x 2 min subs stacked in DSS. On my lap top screen it looks pretty good but when I export it for viewing elsewhere or printing the colour looks way OTT? Anyway I think I'm going to concentrate on this target over the next couple of months as I know with some longer exposures and some clever processing I can get more nebulosity out from the fringes and decrease the burned out core of the trapezium. Been at this hobby for almost a year now after starting with just a DSLR and pretty pleased with the result Steve
  9. One other observation I made when I took it to bits was that there were more threads at the lens end of the main body than the end the focuser screws onto. From a design point of view surely the end supporting most load (the focuser) would have had the most threads?
  10. In the photo galaxyfaraway posted above it shows the arrangement and design of the baffles. I can't help but think the design pattern of these has something to do with it.
  11. So it seems as I bought this scope 2nd hand (under a year old) I have limited options to try solve the issue a few people seem to be having. I've had it on expert advice that the artefact being seen is not actually that bad and I would have to agree - except I'm a bit of a perfectionist. I disassembled the scope for a closer look (its not like I'm going to void a warranty claim). I swapped the main body round so the lens cell is now screwed on to the focuser end of the body and visa versa. Interesting results. I've attached a before and after image of Vega. Now it has to be noted I had a pretty cloudy sky on and off and I think the baffles in the main body of the scope could now be acting as an aperture mask because I swapped it around. The artefact of the star being cut in to is gone but I've now introduced a halo around the star. Conclusion at the moment is inconclusive! I will have another go when it's not blowing a gale and cloud free.
  12. Nice images, I ran out and got set up this morning early on before heading to work, after all this time I got my scope lined up on what I thought was Jupiter then realised I was on Venus, with Jupiter just above the moon at approx 07.00. (it was early) I really like the landscape shot with the whispy clouds!
  13. Stunning! I would be well happy with that. Some really nice detail going on. You've the same slight issue as me at the moment which is I need to work on the galaxy core which will probably involve some layer masking - as far as I know. It's a tricky balance to strike without blowing out other parts of the image.
  14. What camera are you using? If a star seems to faint you may be able to zoom in using the camera screen for a better view. Then go to a nice bright star like vega, and use a Bahtinov mask to focus. I cant recommend a mask enough it made my life so much easier!!!!
  15. Firstly you've made a good choice with the HEQ5 which has helped "future proof" if you get in to imaging. I don't have any experience attaching my camera to eye pieces but generally imaging is carried out by most folks at prime focus, which involves attaching the camera directly to the focuser. It seems counter intuitive when you want to get as close as possible to what you want to see, but for galaxies, clusters nebulae etc, this is the best way to do it - you get a wider field of view which is necessary. You do get illuminated eyepieces with a cross hair, these are usually about 12mm. I had one for imaging thinking I would need it but eventually realised I would be using my camera and software to centre on my target. I may be complicating things, but have you thought about using a lap top running Stellarium or similar connected to your mount to take you to your targets? You have the mount for it. I personally couldn't be bothered faffing about with the HEQ5 "Pro" hand held unit and went straight for a basic HEQ5 with Stellarium controlling the mount via a laptop and USB cable. Just do your research before you buy stuff, but if you buy anything you find out you don't need you can sell it on without too much loss. Astro stuff seems to holds it price pretty well. Cheers, Steve
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